Solve This Service Call
- Thread starter 480sparky
- Start date
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LarryFine
Master Electrician Electric Contractor Richmond VA
- Location
- Henrico County, VA
- Occupation
- Electrical Contractor
Need more detail: Can not be set at all, or trips only when plugged in, or only when turned on, etc.
powerpete69
Senior Member
- Location
- Northeast, Ohio
- Occupation
- Professional Electrical Engineer
In my opinion or guess, if it trips both 50A branch and 100A main, then it is a short circuit activating both of the instantaneous parts of the breaker curves on both breakers. This is an example of how there is no perfect breaker coordination especially during short circuit on instantaneous part of the curve. If it only trips breaker when turned on, must be fault on internal wiring after the switch not at the terminals.
Or I am totally wrong. Either way!
- Location
- Lockport, IL
- Occupation
- Semi-Retired Electrical Engineer
I think you are saying that you can close both breakers, and that does not cause any trip. When you say that they trip when "turned on," do you mean the trip only happens when you turn on one (or more) of the stovetop burners, or is it when you turn on the oven's heating element? Are you close enough to the stove to hear any arcing when the trip occurs? Can you smell anything unusual after the trip occurs? My guess is that the stove needs to be replaced.
PaulMmn
Senior Member
- Location
- Union, KY, USA
- Occupation
- EIT - Engineer in Training, Lafayette College
This is with all of the knobs on the stove itself pointing to "OFF?"
Greg1707
Senior Member
- Location
- Alexandria, VA
- Occupation
- Business owner Electrical contractor
What happens when the stove is disconnected?
Unplug stove: Breaker stays on.
PaulMmn
Senior Member
- Location
- Union, KY, USA
- Occupation
- EIT - Engineer in Training, Lafayette College
Something in the stove has shorted out. How old's the stove? Worth repairing?
Since just plugging in the stove pops the breaker (and I'm assuming it's with all of the knobs turned 'off')--
-- short in the power cord?
-- loose wire in the stove touching the frame (ie ground)?
Since just plugging in the stove pops the breaker (and I'm assuming it's with all of the knobs turned 'off')--
-- short in the power cord?
-- loose wire in the stove touching the frame (ie ground)?
Ding! Ding! Ding!
Now here's the kicker. I took to cover off the j-box on the stove........... well, let me rephrase that: I forced the cover off the j-box on the stove.........
Here's what I found:
One connection had melted and the bolt came in contact with the cover. Not only shorted out, but welded itself to the cover.
And, as you can see, both connections have done the same thing. Look at the right side.
It had the same thing happen, and there's proof of this on the cover itself:
- Location
- San Francisco Bay Area, CA, USA
- Occupation
- Electrical Engineer
I wonder if someone replaced the studs on that? Seems odd that this would have passed any sort of QC program.
But then again, QC is seeming to be a thing of the past... :weeping:
But then again, QC is seeming to be a thing of the past... :weeping:
growler
Senior Member
- Location
- Atlanta,GA
I had a service call where on leg had come loose and welded it's self to the cover like that a few years ago. The difference was the terminal strip was not burned like that, it looked as if the stud had just broken off. I thought someone have tightened it a bit to much but the range was really old.
If anyone ever questions why you need a good ground you can show those pictures.
If anyone ever questions why you need a good ground you can show those pictures.
growler
Senior Member
- Location
- Atlanta,GA
I just noticed that not having a connector on that cord is probably not all that good and could have contributed to the failure by letting things move around and get loose.
Just a thought.
Just a thought.
LarryFine
Master Electrician Electric Contractor Richmond VA
- Location
- Henrico County, VA
- Occupation
- Electrical Contractor
Direct short in stove, or mis-wired in wiring compartment.
LarryFine
Master Electrician Electric Contractor Richmond VA
- Location
- Henrico County, VA
- Occupation
- Electrical Contractor
As well as the 4-wire major-appliance circuit change. Years ago, a customer's son was badly shocked within a week of the lights and clock stopping working on their electric range. When I pulled the range from the wall, I found that the power cord went through a hole in the floor, instead of into a range receptacle.
I found that the 3-wire range cord had been removed from the range, fed up from the crawl space, and re-installed without the cord clamp. I found that a single strand of each of the the stripped ends of the SE cable had been threaded through the holes of the prongs of the power cord and twisted around itself.
This was apparently done as part of a kitchen remodel that included relocating the range to a kitchen wall farther from the panel, and unfortunately for the son, closer to the sink. Inside the wiring compartment, the neutral conductor had pulled out of the crimped-on terminal, energizing the cabinet of the range.
readydave8
re member
- Location
- Clarkesville, Georgia
- Occupation
- electrician
Or wrong or bent cover
hillbilly1
Senior Member
- Location
- North Georgia mountains
- Occupation
- Owner/electrical contractor
Yeah, probably shoved back on the surface mount receptacle bending the cover.
hillbilly1
Senior Member
- Location
- North Georgia mountains
- Occupation
- Owner/electrical contractor
As you probably already know, the exact reason for four wire cords now, and four wire once it leaves the service disconnect!
Nope. The terminal got hot, melted the plastic, and made contact with the cover. You'll notice it's not bent up.
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