Speed tips for Residential

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cka

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I have couple 5,000 square feet custom homes that I need to start very soon. I hear some of you guys finish same size homes in 3 days. How do you do it? I am guessing it will take me at least 10 working days. I feel like it takes me longer than it should just to pull all home runs and staple them to the sides of the joists. Any speed tips are welcome. I work by myself but I will get 1 helper for these 2 projects. All wiring is romex.

Thanks for any replies.

Jason
 
A 5000 square foot home will take more than 3 days by yourself unless your superman and wire the absolute minimum--(one light /room etc). There is no rule as it really depends on what goes into the house. The custom homes I do take me at least 2 - 3 weeks working alone on a 5000 sq. ft. home.

Heck I spend at least a day doing walk thrus with the owners and architect on the homes I do.

The best advice is to move fast all day and think ahead. Get the big picture and go with it. Pull more than 1 homerun at a time if you can and don't take 20 minute breaks 4 times a day. :grin:
 
Jason, the best advice I can give is about basics. When wiring a circuit, let's say receptacles, here's a good way to save steps, material, and time. When pulling a run between boxes, pull toward the box you're wiring instead of away. Here's what I mean:

Start with the last box on the circuit. Feed the wire from the next-to-last box to the last box, strip the end, put it in the box. Notice you haven't cut the wire yet. If you need more slack, like keeping the wire out of pinches, it's there; if you have extra, it's still attached to the roll.

Now start stapling your way back to the wire roll at the next-to-last box, except no staples on the next-to-last stud yet. Now you can hold the wire against the stud and cut the length for the in-box wire. Strip and insert into the box, but again, don't staple yet.

Now, take the wire to the box before this one, feed the wire to the box you just inserted the wire into, strip the end, insert into the box, and now staple both this wire and the previous one, and make up the EGC. Again, notice the new wire is still attached to the roll.

Continue stapling back towards the roll, adjusting slack as you need to, and again don't staple on the stud where the wire roll is, but cut the wire to length and strip it. Do this back toward the panel, and even with the home run itself, with the roll at the panel.

This also works well with lighting boxes and other outlets. If you're pulling from a switch to a ceiling box, recessed can, etc., feed the wire from the switch to the ceiling box, strip and make up the ground and any other wires you can now, while you're on the ladder.

This is an especially great method for looping recessed cans. Starting with the last can on the line, pull the wire toward it, not away from it, make up the connections and close the box, then start stapling toward the previous can, cut and strip the wire, but don't drive that last staple yet.

Now feed the new wire from the can before this one, strip the end, insert both wires into the J-box, make up the connections, staple both wires, and staple your way back towards the roll again, repeating the same steps.

Except for trimming the panel, you'll see that the only waste wire you should have for the whole house will be the trimmed EGC's. Of course, where you need pigtails, such as switches and such, you'll need extra black and bare wires, so a little waste is unavoidable.

The worst thing I've seen guys do is pull wires from box to box, cut the ends, and hope that they left enough slack for stapling. If they're short, they have to re-pull the run and hope to use the wire elsewhere; if they cut it long, it's just wasted money.

The guy who cares about how much time the job takes (me, the business owner), how much the materials cost (me again), and how many mistakes are made (still me) is the one who will benefit the most from using this method.
 
Don't forget about security here

Don't forget about security here

Don't forget about security on your jobsite. With the prices of scrap copper at an all time high, jobsites are an easy target for thieves who like to cut out your freshly installed wiring, as well as the full and partial rolls of wire left there during rough-in.

Be sure to insist on the houses being well secured, with extra measures of security implemented. Also insist on the builder or owners covering any losses resulting from jobsite security breaches.

The difference between a successful installation and huge losses can be made in one night by a bunch of renegade hoodlmus. :mad:
 
Thanks for the great tips guys. I always keep my lighting circuits seperate from my plugs, where I see other guys they run 1 15 or 20 amp circuit and wire the plugs and lights together on this 1 circuit which may speed up things, how do you guys do it? also how do you deal with a g.c where he tells you that he has scheduled for sheetrockers in 3 weeks and when I rush to the job site I see lumber and hvac parts are all over the floor where I need to put my ladder to install the recessed lights, windows against the walls where I need to put my plugs and switches and the plumbing is not even complete. Do you guys just work around it or just come back after all is clear.

Jason.
 
Part of a GCs job is to make sure the site is properly prepared for the different trades. A good GC can coordinate between the different trades and still keep the job moving. Part of that is to have a laborer keeping the site clean. If he does not have his own laborer, he is depending on you and others, and those type of GCs usually have sloppy jobs.

If he has a time table for different aspects of the job, tell him you are being slowed down by his inadequate job scheduling and job cleanliness...look for his reaction.
 
Take the prints to the GC. Lay them out on the floor and have him show you on the print where the lumber stack and HVAC garbage pile is. Politely explain to him that you bid it according to the print and see what he says. It's also a good idea to let Plumbing/HVAC finish ahead of you unless you've worked with them before. The only thing worse than double checking the house before make-up and finding wires cut/drilled into is after the house is trimmed and plugs don't check out and lights don't work.
 
kbsparky said:
Also insist on the builder or owners covering any losses resulting from jobsite security breaches.

KB this is great advice but the job may go to a close bidder that doesn't request this.
I agree this is a huge problem now. I recently left eight 500's about 15' long hanging from a weather head for a week. I woke up every morning wondering if they were still there!
 
kbsparky said:
Don't forget about security on your jobsite. With the prices of scrap copper at an all time high, jobsites are an easy target for thieves who like to cut out your freshly installed wiring, as well as the full and partial rolls of wire left there during rough-in.
Great advice. Never leave unused wire on the job, and make sure your contract states that any installed material belongs to the customer, so they, and not you, become the victim of any theft.

cka said:
I always keep my lighting circuits seperate from my plugs . . . how do you guys do it?
Same here. I like 20a circuits for receptacles and 15a circuits for lighting, except that I will use a 15a circuit for a single room's receptacles.
also how do you deal with a g.c where he tells you that he has scheduled for sheetrockers in 3 weeks and when I rush to the job site I see lumber and hvac parts are all over the floor where I need to put my ladder to install the recessed lights, windows against the walls where I need to put my plugs and switches and the plumbing is not even complete. Do you guys just work around it or just come back after all is clear.
The plumbers and HVAC guys must complete their rough before you begin, since wire is much more flexible than pipe or duct.

Tell the GC that your "three weeks" begin after the other guys are done, and any material in your way must be moved, or you will have to charge for any time you spend doing so.

It's irresponsible to schedule drywall before a rough completion date is certain. If you really lose a job because you have reasonable requirements that would otherwise kill any chance of making any money, what have you really lost?

This isn't a hobby. Do not let a GC intimidate you or take advantage of you. He needs you at least as much as you need him.
 
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cka said:
....how do you deal with a g.c where he tells you that he has scheduled for sheetrockers in 3 weeks ....

With much laughter :grin:

UNLESS all the planets are in perfect alignment, something WILL change and delay that rock date ... in a perfect world(or tract style), what's shown on the print is what's installed w/o much fanfare.

In your case, this is not a production home..it's "custom". At any given moment the "custom"er will change things from:
- tubs...oh, it's not a one-sided cast model it's now a drop in jacuzzi

to fixtures ....a switched outlet? No, we want 6 recessed cans and a CF in every BR and UC lighting ....and BTW, the kitchen layout has changed, the refrig will be far left and we added an electric wall oven and a penisula that needs lights over it

Etc...

Good luck scheduling inspections on the GC's timetable ...and if 1 item fails/is questioned....then what?
 
LarryFine said:
The plumbers and HVAC guys must complete their rough before you begin, since wire is much more flexible than pipe or duct.

...and before you trim out, the walls and ceilings need to be:
- finish coated
OR
- it's the painter's responsibility to mask ALL electrical items off.


LarryFine said:
Do not let a GC intimidate you or take advantage of you. He needs you at least as much as you need him.

Yup.

You do have a WRITTEN contract for this ...one that YOU have created, and NOT the GC's...right?
 
1 question, do you guys always bid custom homes? because 90% of my work is T&M residential... The last house I did took me about 6 weeks to rough in by myself, that included part of the service and a finished basement, the house was pretty old but gutted with a huge addition, but was still a PITA to rough in.
 
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stickboy1375 said:
I work in some pretty neat old houses, you would loose your shirt if you ever tried bidding them...

Well we have found it was better to contract, T&M can leave everyone in a stress situation, and usually as job nears completion, the question of time verses productivity always comes up.

With a contract price, I know my costs, and assure a profit, recently a competor EC finished a home 4200sq he had it under contract for $110K electrical, his final cost was $96K had he worked the same job T&M it would of resulted in 30% less overall, reducing his profit margin.

When I went in business, I went into Electrical Contracting, not Day Labor, and for a good reason, I wanted a business, not another job.

Trying to find a way to speed up a job, indicates the estimate may of been off to begin with.
Don't shoot me this is just the way I look at it.
 
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stickboy1375 said:
1 question, do you guys always bid custom homes? because 90% of my work is T&M residential... The last house I did took me about 6 weeks to rough in by myself, that included part of the service and a finished basement, the house was pretty old but gutted with a huge addition, but was still a PITA to rough in.
For homes...pretty much custom/remodel jobs. I am NOT interested in tract work.

Recently, I passed a rough on a 2100 sq.ft remodel ...hours to date: 132. Time includes trip for supplies, meetings with owners (daily), permit/inspections...."real time worked" is probably closer to 80 - 100 hours.
The time would have better had the GC figured that with all the recessed cans it would be easier/cheaper for BOTH of us to just have demo the entire ceiling....now he has about 20 "problem areas" ... LOL.
 
stickboy1375 said:
I work in some pretty neat old houses, you would loose your shirt if you ever tried bidding them...

To get work like this you have to be good!
More power to you Stick.
 
stickboy1375 said:
Most of the clients I work for are from New York, and New Jersey, mostly 2nd or 3rd homes, and the pocket book is endless... its pretty scary actually...
I know the type ....not that they are bad risks, but it makes you wonder....and as Satcom said:
...T&M can leave everyone in a stress situation, and usually as job nears completion,....
...but if you're accustomed to level of stress ~ party on!
partytime.gif
 
80% of my residential jobs are remodels 5% all electrical for a gate contractor 5% commercial another 10% new custom homes. Remodels could take alot of time and you always have to deal with customers who change their mind daily. I used to do my remodels T&M for a while but I bid on all of them now. I make sure I bid them high enough taking into consideration of the changes customer makes and some other unforeseeable situations. Alot of the time G.C complains that I am pretty high but end up having me do the job anyway. These are of course the general contractors that I regularly work with.

Jason.
 
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