Split Bolts ??

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eheins said:
For the most part they are working good for me also. But the county wants to replace all of them and I just dont want to look like an idiot if they start to fail CYA if ya know what I mean:) Also I was thinking this morning what the temp. limitation were and they are rated for 90c and I know it gets hotter than that in there but thhn is only rated for 90c so I will use them and I like the idea of lock tight Blue not RED bad experince !!! thanks guys
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are you sure it gets hotter than 90 C? Cause that's 194 F.
 
steelersman said:
are you sure it gets hotter than 90 C? Cause that's 194 F.
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Motors will commonly use 160C or 200C or even 220C rated magnet wire. And yes, the hot part of the motor will get that hot in a cheapo motor.

Of course, this is the 'hot spot' temperature, and the temperature in the junction box should be much lower...but if the motor winding hot spot is at 150C, it is not so crazy for the junction box to be at 100C.

-Jon
 
My background is with motors in industrial equipment. Best way for these, is to solder rings on wires, then attach with nuts & bolts. Works with ultra flexible many stranded wire.

As has been pointed out, the issue may be the use of stranded wire. Regular lugs will produce a much better connection, torque being the same, when seated with a fast (2000 RPM) driver. In a bizarre observation, the fast tool will re-seat to practically the same spot repeatedly, where a hand torque tool will find a new 'land' visibly further 'in' when re-torqued, again with the ultra-flexible cabling.

You don't have the options of choosing fancy methods or even suggesting anything out of the ordinary. But, still, I myself would question whether a mechanical fastening method is the best for your application. There's a very good, short, online training module called Power Connectors and Tools Courses on the Panduit quickie online training page. You may also wish to look at the Terminals and Ferrules Courses if there's an interest.

The line card from Nedco has many different options shown. http://www.nedcoelectronics.com/pages/linecard_frame.html
I am not endorsing nedco, and haven't dealt with them for years, just a one page look at many different possibilities.
 
don_resqcapt19 said:
Take a look at the links in post 5 in this thread. Not sure if they will fit over split bolts. I have never seen a split bolt in a motor junction box. Around here they would normally be a compression lug and a bolt. In the past I would use the lug and bolt connection with rubber and vinyl tape, now I use the GelCaps where I can. They don't make one that will fit in the motor junction boxes of smaller motors.
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Split bolts are very common in peckerheads and of course they fit. they need to be properly insulated to avoid a short.
 
quogueelectric said:
Split bolts are very common in peckerheads and of course they fit. they need to be properly insulated to avoid a short.
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Maybe in some areas, but not around here. I have been at this since 73 and have never seen a split bolt used to connect a motor. As far as proper insulation that applies no matter what type of connection is used.
 
don_resqcapt19 said:
Maybe in some areas, but not around here. I have been at this since 73 and have never seen a split bolt used to connect a motor. As far as proper insulation that applies no matter what type of connection is used.
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Split bolts are almost all I have ever seen used on motors.
 
don_resqcapt19 said:
Maybe in some areas, but not around here. I have been at this since 73 and have never seen a split bolt used to connect a motor. As far as proper insulation that applies no matter what type of connection is used.
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I started in 72 :p but not full time till 84 :) . I have learned to first wrap in plastic then in mastic pad then cover in plastic again. And if you are unsure of vibration to cover the inside of the peckerhead with plastic from a milk carton as I have seen mastic wrapped split bolts blow out. Cows promote milk products. I have ONLY seen varnished cambric tape used in a powerplant even today that is how they teach thier in house guys. It seems like a good method but a little archaic.
 
iwire said:
don_resqcapt19 said:
I have been at this since 73 and have never seen a split bolt used to connect a motor.
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Split bolts are almost all I have ever seen used on motors.
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I have a feeling you're each talking about different size motors.
 
A lot of the industrial plants in this area will use the varnished cambric first saying it is easier to take off. I normally only use rubber and vinyl tape on the bolted compression lugs if I am taping them. As long as the connections are good and they don't get excessively hot, I don't see much difference in the removal. Now I just use the GelCaps where ever I can. I think they are a superior product, very easy to remove, are reusable, and with labor rates running $1.50+/minute they are cost effective when compared to taping.
 
iwire said:
Kind of doubt it, I am thinking 5 to 500 HP.
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I too, like Don, have never seen a motor connected with split bolts.

Feeder taps... now that's almost a given with older installations :grin:
 
iwire said:
I did not doubt Don and I do not doubt you, probably just a regional thing. :smile:
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Most likely. I worked commerical "on the road" for a few years, and experienced how some things are done differently in different parts of the country :D

One in particular was how tenant changeouts are done in the NYC area :roll:
 
don_resqcapt19 said:
A lot of the industrial plants in this area will use the varnished cambric first saying it is easier to take off. I normally only use rubber and vinyl tape on the bolted compression lugs if I am taping them. As long as the connections are good and they don't get excessively hot, I don't see much difference in the removal. Now I just use the GelCaps where ever I can. I think they are a superior product, very easy to remove, are reusable, and with labor rates running $1.50+/minute they are cost effective when compared to taping.
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Of course that would be the difference between hot dogs and steaks
 
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