MY MAN! That is the info I wanted to know, assuming (I know I know) that someone here had done this before as well. Mr. Dungar seemed to know what I was about with this and his input kept me from going and getting a new one, glad I held out. I'll throw some lockwashers on and hold my head up when The Man comes tomorrow. Thanks again for all the replies.
Square D 30/42 CSED OH SE hub requirements.
- Thread starter based
- Start date
- Status
Customer wanted this panel, LOVES it, the future options on the bottom, and solar "readyishness" when they are ready. Its extra money for me, less "big box on patio wall" for them and if there are any fire blocks they just get removed. All I need access to are the existing circuit lines and the studs of the framing that this slides right in between of. Like I said, the hardest part of the job was finding a tunnel kit since they are few and far between for some reason.
- Location
- Wisconsin
- Occupation
- PE (Retired) - Power Systems
It is a component selection choice by the installer. Are you saying hubs are not allowed to be installed in general installations.
mtnelect
HVAC & Electrical Contractor
- Location
- Southern California
- Occupation
- Contractor, C10 & C20 - Semi Retired
No, I just thought it was unnecessary. Also, the space behind the flange might be limited depending on the size of the conduit used with a hub.
I got my grounding electrode/underground wiring signed off today. The inspector gave a "looks good" when I asked him about the mounted hub. Non-issue for those who want to have a bit more room going into the tunnel. Bolt on or well tapped holes is a go. Many thanks folks. (Subject to AHJ)
mtnelect
HVAC & Electrical Contractor
- Location
- Southern California
- Occupation
- Contractor, C10 & C20 - Semi Retired
Congratulations, glad to hear the good news.
guytrinidad
Member
- Location
- N. California
- Occupation
- Electrical Contractor
Here is my 2 cents on your situation of the semi Flush meter panel that you're installing, so it is overhead and you will be using IMC or rigid conduit in the wall. I have done literally hundreds of these service changes for solar contractors, I do sometimes for a month. Simi flush or surface mount. I use the panels that I purchase at the box stores or from my supplier. The panel you have in question. I've used many times and I do use a hub Just like you are doing. I knock out the concentric knock out so that there's no metal That's going to be touching my conductors. The hub does have a rounded edge on the inside to protect your conductors as well. I do drill holes in the top of the panel and use 1/4 x20 nuts and bolts to secure the hub to the panel. Remember your bolts should show at least 3 threads through the nut to have it Code approved, according to a inspector up here in Sacramento. I never used the factory screws that they send and that little threaded hole that they tap on the top of some of those panels. That's not sturdy enough for a 2 inch IMC or rigid
conduit, and like someone else mentioned. The concentric knockout actually will allow you to use lock nuts. Instead of a fitting because it is inside a concealed wall. so I think your installation is perfectly fine. I use the hub on top all the time. And it is concealed in the wall. If you have a good flashing upon the roof you're not gonna have any water running down the conduit into that fitting. And remember while you're cutting the hole through the top plate and you put your IMC in there and thread it into your hub, before you secure your flashing. Try to hammer a wooden wedge through the hole You drilled in the top plate to keep your IMC from Wobbling around in your hole if it's slightly oversized, otherwise because it's in the wall, there's really no other way to Secure the mast from moving around in a oversized hole drilled through the top plate, Good luck.
conduit, and like someone else mentioned. The concentric knockout actually will allow you to use lock nuts. Instead of a fitting because it is inside a concealed wall. so I think your installation is perfectly fine. I use the hub on top all the time. And it is concealed in the wall. If you have a good flashing upon the roof you're not gonna have any water running down the conduit into that fitting. And remember while you're cutting the hole through the top plate and you put your IMC in there and thread it into your hub, before you secure your flashing. Try to hammer a wooden wedge through the hole You drilled in the top plate to keep your IMC from Wobbling around in your hole if it's slightly oversized, otherwise because it's in the wall, there's really no other way to Secure the mast from moving around in a oversized hole drilled through the top plate, Good luck.
Outstanding! Thank you for taking the time to explain a solid install of both hub AND panel. I wouldn't have thought of the wedge, good stuff indeed. I ordered the bolts/nuts/washers like you and Curt both use to secure the hub, seems like good trade best practices to me. I have to admit, I was a little down with some of the replies. Going over and over the install in my head from possible problems, order of work flow and needed material had me concerned I was over-thinking things. (Using a Meyers hub for instance? Geez, no idea where I got that from. I haven't had a flashing leak in 15 years.) Great community here none the less. Cheers brother.
Last edited:
kwired
Electron manager
- Location
- NE Nebraska
- Occupation
- EC
About has to be a local rule. NEC doesn't say anything about this for a nut that I am aware of. If tapped into the cabinet wall and you are depending on it for bonding then there is NEC rule on how many threads need to be engaged in the cabinet wall.
Interesting. I'm not sure the supplied (bottom) hub bolts had 3 threads in this particular cabinet (close, but probably not). This specific unit comes bonded from the factory so no need for a neutral bonding screw even.
kwired
Electron manager
- Location
- NE Nebraska
- Occupation
- EC
This isn't about the main bonding jumper it is about bonding a metal raceway threaded into the hub. If they are factory made holes with a little more beef in the metal where these holes are located, then they probably are tested and listed as is. It is when you are threading your own hole into a metal enclosure where you need to pay attention to number of thread rules if you want to use it for bonding. And keep in mind a metal raceway containing service conductors must be bonded by something other than an ordinary locknut. Bonding locknuts, bonding bushings, integral hubs, bolt on hubs are all options that will usually be acceptable.
The photo in post #15 shows the factory hub mounting surface and it does not have the customary stamping or added material for more threads. It IS meant for an AL hub but it is attached the same way. I would think they have tested the case and the thickness coupled with the supplied bolts are listed when used together. I have learned an AMAZING amount of info perusing this site and threads, not everyone agrees on things but even in that, there is useful info going back and forth. Thank you!
- Status