stubbing out uf cable for an outdoor receptacle

[tortuga]

So, under that interpretation, just wiring up interior receptacles in an outside wall will require use of UF, even if there is no outside connection at all?
The vapor barrier on an outside wall will typically be right behind the finish wallboard.

No It may be different here in Oregon the vapor barrier must be on the outside of the studs that plastic under finish sheetrock is linked to black mould and has been prohibited.

EXTERIOR COVERING
R703.1 General. Exterior walls shall provide the building with
a weather-resistant exterior wall envelope and a means of
draining water that enters the assembly to the exterior. Protec-
tion against condensation in the exterior wall assembly shall be
provided in accordance with Chapter 11 of this code.
R703.1.1 Exterior wall envelope. The exterior wall enve-
lope shall be installed in a manner that water that enters the
assembly can drain to the exterior. The envelope shall con-
sist of an exterior veneer, a water-resistive barrier as
required in Section R703.2, a minimum 1/8 inch (3 mm)
space between the water- resistive barrier and the exterior
veneer, and integrated flashings as required in Section
R703.8. The required space shall be formed by the use of
any noncorrodible furring strip, drainage mat or drainage
board. The envelope shall provide proper integration of
flashings with the water-resistive barrier, the space provided
and the exterior veneer. These components, in conjunction,
shall provide a means of draining water that enters the
assembly to the exterior.

Here is a image from the code detailing what I think the OP is talking about, going from studs through a vapor barrior to a WP box set in the brick:


If that brick were not there then a box nailed on a stud facing out with the barrier cut around the box would be OK to terminate romex.
There are also products the provide additional protection:
http://www.hubbellcatalog.com/raco/RACO_datasheet.asp?PN=2027-FBAR&FAM=RacoBoxes


and arlington makes a box that might allow him to use romex
http://www.aifittings.com/catalog/weatherproof-products/low-profile-inbox-for-new-brick/

However he stated he is using UF so its a non issue interms of the OP.

The only connector he can use to go into that bell box is one like this:
http://www.aifittings.com/catalog/non-metallic-fittings-and-supports/zinc-uf-connectors/

 

[GoldDigger]

No It may be different here in Oregon the vapor barrier must be on the outside of the studs that plastic under finish sheetrock is linked to black mould and has been prohibited.

The "water resistant" barrier referred to in this section of the Oregon code resists penetration by liquid water (penetrating the siding or bad flashing or woodpecker holes or whatever.) It is NOT a moisture/vapor barrier in the same way that the plastic or metal facing on an insulation batt is. Or the clear plastic vapor barrier often used over the insulation on the inside of the wall.
This is recognized in the mention of a separate vapor-barrier in the same code section that refers to a different part of the code altogether:

Protection against condensation in the exterior wall assembly shall be
provided in accordance with Chapter 11 of this code.

The only way to completely avoid the possibility of mold formation in any conceivable combination of hot or cold interior is to use closed cell foam that integrates the insulation and the vapor barrier in one unit.

From the Dupont Tyvek ? website

DuPont™ Tyvek? HomeWrap? helps protect a home against damaging wind and rain that can penetrate through the exterior cladding.

but

The breathable structure of this house wrap allows moisture vapor to pass through to help promote drying in wall systems which can aid in preventing the growth of mold and mildew.

Looking at the illustration (which is titled "vapor barrier" but labels the film as "water resistive" instead), if there is no additional vapor barrier on the warm (interior) side of the wall, then water vapor from the interior can condense inside of the wall cavity, soaking the insulation. If the water does not actually condense, then the vapor can continue all the way through the Tyvek to the outside. But if the outer surface of the wall is cold enough, that will not happen.

 

[tortuga]

OK gotcha now. Once you said insulation face i see your point now.
I looked that up it is still required here

N1104.9 Moisture control. To ensure the effectiveness of
insulation materials and reduce the hazard of decay and other
degradation due to condensation within the structure, mois-
ture-control measures shall be included in all buildings and
structures or portions thereof regulated by this chapter.
N1104.9.1 Vapor retarders. A one-perm, dry cup rating
vapor retarder shall be installed on the warm side (in winter)
of all insulation.

I suppose the "water resistant" barrier is delination point of "dry location" by definition. Once you penetrate the "water resistant" barrier you are in a damp location.

 

[GoldDigger]

So the The "water resistant" barrier is where romex stops.
I suppose the "water resistant" barrier is delination point of "dry location" by definition. Once you penetrate the "water resistant" barrier you are in a damp location.

:thumbsup: I think that states it very well. High humidity alone does not necessarily make a damp location.