Stubbing out wires

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splinetto

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Does anyone have a preferred method when stubbing out romex before the bricklayers show up?....I sometimes use a piece of pvc for a protective sleeve and then pull it out afteer there done....My other Question how do you install a doorbell button on brick Im guesing some tiny anchors and screws but what do you do? I was told before to just caulk it to the brick..
 
splinetto said:
Does anyone have a preferred method when stubbing out romex before the bricklayers show up?....I sometimes use a piece of pvc for a protective sleeve and then pull it out afteer there done....My other Question how do you install a doorbell button on brick Im guesing some tiny anchors and screws but what do you do? I was told before to just caulk it to the brick..
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Doorbell would get small rawls... What are you stubbing out for? Lights, AC units, receptacles? I would install as many boxes as possible.
 
stickboy1375 said:
Doorbell would get small rawls... What are you stubbing out for? Lights, AC units, receptacles? I would install as many boxes as possible.
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Small Rawls???? Juusr AC discos with the low volt and a 14/2 to a fire alarm bell into a surface mounted box...
 
splinetto said:
Small Rawls????
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Yeah, same here. I just use some of the #6 Rawl plugs too. People tend to call the plastic anchors Rawl plugs today, since hardly anyone uses the real rawhide and lead Rawl plugs.

Modern "Rawl Plug":
http://tbn0.google.com/images?q=tbn...stv.co.uk/images/pht/th_s/322_107_DAS0229.jpg
p4756566_l.jpg


Old timers "Rawl Plug":
8819253152.jpg
 
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For A/C I use a piece of carflex.

For outlets I use a piece of carflex with a brick box at the end w/ no connector.

For lights, same as above with an octagon box.

For Doorbell, I use the insulation off of a scrap piece of romex
 
splinetto said:
Does anyone have a preferred method when stubbing out romex before the bricklayers show up?....I sometimes use a piece of pvc for a protective sleeve and then pull it out afteer there done....My other Question how do you install a doorbell button on brick Im guesing some tiny anchors and screws but what do you do? I was told before to just caulk it to the brick..
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For lights and and outlets we always just leave the wire hanging out and put a plastic single gang 18 cubic inch box on the wire and let it hang and the brick masons set the box for us and it's so much easier that way. :)
 
I don't mean to pour cold water on it but technically I think you're supposed to use a masonry box if it's inbedded in the brick. I'd really have to search the Code to find it, something to do with approved for the purpose, I don't think a plastic nail-on box is approved. But, that's just one man's opinion :smile:
 
donselec said:
I don't mean to pour cold water on it but technically I think you're supposed to use a masonry box if it's inbedded in the brick. I'd really have to search the Code to find it, something to do with approved for the purpose, I don't think a plastic nail-on box is approved. But, that's just one man's opinion :smile:
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Well then the thousands upon thousands of homes with brick fronts here in northern Va (greater D.C. metropolitan area) are all wrong then. :) Who, with common sense would think that a masonry box (metal) could possibly be any better than a plastic nail on box? The plastic box will outlast the masonry (which in my opinion is a bogus term anyway) box as it will not rust and also the plastic boxes holes for the screws are deeper and grip the threads for a good half an inch as opposed to a masonry box for just the thickness of the box which alot of times has to be retapped as over time it loses it's gripping power. You can only retap those so many times before it's bye bye. Show me a code reference (which I've never heard of) and I'll still continue to use plastic since every inspector allows it. :)
 
alfiesauce said:
Use one of these for your outlets-
http://www.arlcatalog.com/Weatherproof/Low Profile IN BOX for New Brick Construction.htm

let me know how it goes, I've just seen the info, haven't actually used one yet.

For a/c disconnect another thing you could do is get the carpenters to get a nice board on the wall for you just bigger than the disconnect, then the brickers could butt up against it then you have a nice place to set the disconnect.
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I started using those arlington brick boxes a year ago.
Pro's: They look good, alot better than a bubble cover.

Con's:Getting the brick guys to install them correctly. Having 2 12/2 romex and a GFCI rec can be tight. If you lose the plates that come with the box, standard plates are too big.

I will still continue to use these on future jobs though.
 
I never install the bell button in the brick. There is almost always a space in the brick mold (casing) of the door. If the door is not in I educate the carpenters about what to do. They will drill me a 5/8" hole and I can recess the button. If there is not a space for a recess button to sit flat then a surface button is used. Rarely have I had to use a surface button.
 
Dennis Alwon said:
I never install the bell button in the brick. There is almost always a space in the brick mold (casing) of the door. If the door is not in I educate the carpenters about what to do. They will drill me a 5/8" hole and I can recess the button. If there is not a space for a recess button to sit flat then a surface button is used. Rarely have I had to use a surface button.
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That is what i normally do ..What had happened was when I wired the units the front doors were not in, so I just let the wire hang....I went back and saw the doors being installed and the carpenters pulled the wire out and stubbed it out next to the door not in the brick mold...I told the carp I want that wire to stub out the brick mold and he showed me that these door dont have any...They basically get installed like the windows do....I could probably drill thru the door itself and mount the button on a flat spot but i chose against
 
splinetto said:
That is what i normally do ..What had happened was when I wired the units the front doors were not in, so I just let the wire hang....I went back and saw the doors being installed and the carpenters pulled the wire out and stubbed it out next to the door not in the brick mold...I told the carp I want that wire to stub out the brick mold and he showed me that these door dont have any...They basically get installed like the windows do....I could probably drill thru the door itself and mount the button on a flat spot but i chose against
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That's what we always do. Bring it through the door frame. Never the brick mold. :)
 
aftershock said:
If you lose the plates that come with the box, standard plates are too big.
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Yeah.. We use the remodel plug boxes a lot. And I have started saving all the plates I don't use out of them knowing I'll loose one or crack one down the road an need a spare.
 
why do you need to run wires outside? who needs lights and outlets outside? just tell the customer to stay in the house!
 
steelersman said:
Well then the thousands upon thousands of homes with brick fronts here in northern Va (greater D.C. metropolitan area) are all wrong then. :) Who, with common sense would think that a masonry box (metal) could possibly be any better than a plastic nail on box? The plastic box will outlast the masonry (which in my opinion is a bogus term anyway) box as it will not rust and also the plastic boxes holes for the screws are deeper and grip the threads for a good half an inch as opposed to a masonry box for just the thickness of the box which alot of times has to be retapped as over time it loses it's gripping power. You can only retap those so many times before it's bye bye. Show me a code reference (which I've never heard of) and I'll still continue to use plastic since every inspector allows it. :)
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Well excuuuuuuse me. I'll look into it a little more. :smile:
 
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