stumped by neutral ground voltage
stumped by neutral ground voltage
Wayne just a comment on one of your earlier replies about disconnecting neutrals and/or grounds or even water pipes for that matter. You hit the nail on the head and drove it home. As you said you can get the primary voltage by lifting enough neutrals and grounds. This is one thing that a lot of folks forget.
One thing I always recommend is doing current measurements before disconnecting a neutral or an ECG or anything remotely resembling one, including water pipes and rebar in cement. Even steel columns in large manufacturing plants. If the metal or earth area is large enough even 100's or 1000's of amps will only give a fraction of a volt drop. We in the good ole USA operate with primary and secondary neutrals tied together at the transformer. We also tie our ecg and neutrals to our water pipes, building steel, etc in some form or fashion.
Over the years several copper thieves have toasted themselves stealing safe to touch bare low or no voltage ground wires. City workers replacing old iron or metal pipes have ended up with some pretty good sparks or hefty welding rods. Age and corrosion tend to make grounds ineffective or move current to other areas.
Please always measure current with some sort of clamp meter in the ground, neutral, ECG, etc before you disconnect it. Where I work I always insist on putting a jumper around any bare wire found in the ground before cutting it, even if it reads zero current. Just in case a load gets switched while I'm cutting. Then put a clamp meter on the jumper before I remove one end. You can survive the voltage but the current will make you a crispy critter. Make certain primary neutral and ground are good in the area. Check pole ground wires and anchor wires for current 1 to 3 poles away from the area of the problem. Low or no current in these indicates the neutral is carrying most of the current and you are safe to kill power to the home and lift some load neutrals provided you check for current or open the breaker first before lifting the neutral.
The main thing to remember is that lifting a neutral under load will kill you just as quick as grabbing the hot leg. The only thing that might save you is the resistance of the load limiting the current. And that would be about a 7 to 15 watt light bulb. And I dont recommend you try it.
stumped by neutral ground voltage
Wayne just a comment on one of your earlier replies about disconnecting neutrals and/or grounds or even water pipes for that matter. You hit the nail on the head and drove it home. As you said you can get the primary voltage by lifting enough neutrals and grounds. This is one thing that a lot of folks forget.
One thing I always recommend is doing current measurements before disconnecting a neutral or an ECG or anything remotely resembling one, including water pipes and rebar in cement. Even steel columns in large manufacturing plants. If the metal or earth area is large enough even 100's or 1000's of amps will only give a fraction of a volt drop. We in the good ole USA operate with primary and secondary neutrals tied together at the transformer. We also tie our ecg and neutrals to our water pipes, building steel, etc in some form or fashion.
Over the years several copper thieves have toasted themselves stealing safe to touch bare low or no voltage ground wires. City workers replacing old iron or metal pipes have ended up with some pretty good sparks or hefty welding rods. Age and corrosion tend to make grounds ineffective or move current to other areas.
Please always measure current with some sort of clamp meter in the ground, neutral, ECG, etc before you disconnect it. Where I work I always insist on putting a jumper around any bare wire found in the ground before cutting it, even if it reads zero current. Just in case a load gets switched while I'm cutting. Then put a clamp meter on the jumper before I remove one end. You can survive the voltage but the current will make you a crispy critter. Make certain primary neutral and ground are good in the area. Check pole ground wires and anchor wires for current 1 to 3 poles away from the area of the problem. Low or no current in these indicates the neutral is carrying most of the current and you are safe to kill power to the home and lift some load neutrals provided you check for current or open the breaker first before lifting the neutral.
The main thing to remember is that lifting a neutral under load will kill you just as quick as grabbing the hot leg. The only thing that might save you is the resistance of the load limiting the current. And that would be about a 7 to 15 watt light bulb. And I dont recommend you try it.