I have a 200A main panel in my basement; I need more circuits in the house and want to install a 100A sub panel directly side-by-side/next to the main panel.
I purchased a Murray "Main Breaker Load Center" LC2040B1100P. Some specs are online at http://www.murrayconnect.com/products/Rock_Solid_Load_Centers/rocksolidloadcenter.htm. On that page they mention:"...For non-service entrance applications, an insulated neutral kit can be installed, or a separate main lug load center and MBK main breaker kit." (but keep reading this post).
I've read about the bonding jumper http://forums.mikeholt.com/archive/index.php/t-57103.html and wire sizes here (and elsewhere, checked my wiring book, etc) and need a little help.
Case Description: On that Murray model, the Outboard Neutral Bar on the right seems to be isolated from the case by a plastic piece. The Outboard Ground Bar on the left are screwed directly into the case.
3 questions:
1. Wire Size: I will take the wire out of the side of the Main into the side of the Sub with a total of about 5 feet in wire. Do I use a 2/3 for a side-by-side installation as described or because it is so short can I use something lighter like a 4/3 or 6/3?
2. The Panel Case: Bonding Jumper/Neutrals/Ground: Considering the specific Murray model, do I have to "fix" the Bonding Jumper and if yes, then what exactly do I remove or alter? (I?m not dismantling or cutting things without asking first)
Do I use an insulated neutral kit?
3. Wiring Scematic: The way I see it is: Out from the Main I have a 100AMP breaker taking the 2/3 to the sub panel main breaker: red to one side; black to the other side; white to the Neutral Bus Bar; and the bare/ground wire to the Green Ground Screw that is attached to a flat bar running right to left and is screwed to the Outboard Ground Bar. I may be repeating Question #2 above but thought to add this description. Is this correct or do i have to get the insulated neutral kit?
--------FLASH UPDATE-------
(After this did not post when I tried the first time) I found this explanation at the Murray site but I'm still not sure. the link says "... Murray load centers feature a new split neutral design in all 1? main lug and main breaker models from 100 Amp, 12 circuit through 225 Amp, 42 circuit. For service entrance applications, use both bars for neutral and ground conductors. For non-service entrance applications, use insulated bar for neutral conductors and uninsulated bar for ground conductors The entire doc is online at: http://www.murrayconnect.com/NR/rdonlyres/B2BE6262-9B1D-411F-96FC-889D3C935772/0/01_0203.pdf
I look forward to hearing back from you. Please contact me either via reply to this post, email, or YIM and in advance, thank you.
I purchased a Murray "Main Breaker Load Center" LC2040B1100P. Some specs are online at http://www.murrayconnect.com/products/Rock_Solid_Load_Centers/rocksolidloadcenter.htm. On that page they mention:"...For non-service entrance applications, an insulated neutral kit can be installed, or a separate main lug load center and MBK main breaker kit." (but keep reading this post).
I've read about the bonding jumper http://forums.mikeholt.com/archive/index.php/t-57103.html and wire sizes here (and elsewhere, checked my wiring book, etc) and need a little help.
Case Description: On that Murray model, the Outboard Neutral Bar on the right seems to be isolated from the case by a plastic piece. The Outboard Ground Bar on the left are screwed directly into the case.
3 questions:
1. Wire Size: I will take the wire out of the side of the Main into the side of the Sub with a total of about 5 feet in wire. Do I use a 2/3 for a side-by-side installation as described or because it is so short can I use something lighter like a 4/3 or 6/3?
2. The Panel Case: Bonding Jumper/Neutrals/Ground: Considering the specific Murray model, do I have to "fix" the Bonding Jumper and if yes, then what exactly do I remove or alter? (I?m not dismantling or cutting things without asking first)
Do I use an insulated neutral kit? 3. Wiring Scematic: The way I see it is: Out from the Main I have a 100AMP breaker taking the 2/3 to the sub panel main breaker: red to one side; black to the other side; white to the Neutral Bus Bar; and the bare/ground wire to the Green Ground Screw that is attached to a flat bar running right to left and is screwed to the Outboard Ground Bar. I may be repeating Question #2 above but thought to add this description. Is this correct or do i have to get the insulated neutral kit?
--------FLASH UPDATE-------
(After this did not post when I tried the first time) I found this explanation at the Murray site but I'm still not sure. the link says "... Murray load centers feature a new split neutral design in all 1? main lug and main breaker models from 100 Amp, 12 circuit through 225 Amp, 42 circuit. For service entrance applications, use both bars for neutral and ground conductors. For non-service entrance applications, use insulated bar for neutral conductors and uninsulated bar for ground conductors The entire doc is online at: http://www.murrayconnect.com/NR/rdonlyres/B2BE6262-9B1D-411F-96FC-889D3C935772/0/01_0203.pdf
I look forward to hearing back from you. Please contact me either via reply to this post, email, or YIM and in advance, thank you.
