Sub Panel underground feeder installation

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chris1971

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Usa
I'm looking for ideas on installing a 100 amp sub panel feeder wire to a dettached garage. It will be an undergound feeder to the panel. I plan on installing it in PVC SCH 80. Has anyone used Al XHHW as a feeder? If so, does #1 AL sound right? Or does anyone have any better suggestions? Thanks for your help.
 

Rewire

Senior Member
I'm looking for ideas on installing a 100 amp sub panel feeder wire to a dettached garage. It will be an undergound feeder to the panel. I plan on installing it in PVC SCH 80. Has anyone used Al XHHW as a feeder? If so, does #1 AL sound right? Or does anyone have any better suggestions? Thanks for your help.

2-2-2 URD and a #6 thhn ground pulls nicely in 1 1/4 pvc
 

hurk27

Senior Member
2-2-2 URD and a #6 thhn ground pulls nicely in 1 1/4 pvc
You can't use 310.15(B)(6) since a garage is not a dwelling, so table 310.16 would require 1-1-1-6 for Aluminum.

Copper I assume?

I done many and never had a problem, but here I install a double lug meter and just come off the meter and go right back in the ground and hit a main breaker in the out building, this way they are still considered service entrance conductors and you only need 1-1-1 no 6 grounding conductor, bonding and grounding at the garage panel will be done just like a service, it can save money sometimes, since your not required to have a disconnect at the house, you also don't load any more current on the house panel.

But check with your AHJ as some will freak out not having a disconnect at the house.
The NEC only requires a disconnect where service conductors "enter" a building, not where they exit a meter base and go right back into the Earth.
 

ksmith846

Senior Member
How far away is the garage and what is the connected load on the new panel. May have to consider VD and use 1/0 AL.

Do not forget that the detached garage will require a Main disconnect outside and it will also require to you treat it as a new service. Ground rod and building steel tied into the main Disco.
 

rodneee

Senior Member
my 2 cents

my 2 cents

this is going to be a good one!!!....7 posts so far and 5 different ideas...i am not saying right or wrong, legal or illegal.... i am saying the most common application i have seen in my years is #2/2/2/4 URD leaving a house panel on a 100 amp breaker going underground (no PVC) to a 100 amp MB panel. no grd rods, disconnects etc...only one time was told by an inspector that the the breaker in the garage could not be a 100 amp it had to be a 90 amp or less.
 

Dennis Alwon

Moderator
Staff member
Location
Chapel Hill, NC
Occupation
Retired Electrical Contractor
It does not matter what an inspector told you because that doesn't always mean it is correct. #2 alum at 75C is only good for 90 amps and there is no way art. 310.15(B)(2) enters into this. If it is copper than #2 would be fine.

Personally I pipe everything I can simply because I have seen too much UG DB wire fail around here. I would use UF before I would use a USE cable or wire.
 

chris1971

Senior Member
Location
Usa
I will pipe this run. It is 120' from the house. I will probably use #1 Thwn. Anyone else have any ideas of doing this the most cost effective way?
 

kwired

Electron manager
Location
NE Nebraska
How far away is the garage and what is the connected load on the new panel. May have to consider VD and use 1/0 AL.

Do not forget that the detached garage will require a Main disconnect outside and it will also require to you treat it as a new service. Ground rod and building steel tied into the main Disco.

May have to consider VD and run 500 - or if load is small 14 may be OK (for VD purposes)

I will pipe this run. It is 120' from the house. I will probably use #1 Thwn. Anyone else have any ideas of doing this the most cost effective way?

Copper or aluminum? Aluminum should cost less. What is your calculated load? Do you need 100 amps or is it just what is desired. (You can't get a new Cadillac for the price of a Buick) I have connected many residential garages with only a 60 amp feed and even most of those probably would have calculated less than that. Calculate VD based on your calculated load and not necessarily 100 amps.

Install it as a service if possible and not a feeder - you will save on cost of equipment ground conductor with the feeder - Everything else will be just about the same.
 

kwired

Electron manager
Location
NE Nebraska
What does this mean? It is a feeder and if the OP is under the 2008 NEC then there is no choice. FWIW, even if the OP is under the '05 I would still run an egc.

If it originates at the meter and not the house service panel or any point ahead of the service disconnect and has no overcurrent protection then it is a service and not a feeder no matter what code is in force.

If a service running, an EGC only makes a parallel neutral unless you can get around not having a main bonding jumper at the load end.
 
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Dennis Alwon

Moderator
Staff member
Location
Chapel Hill, NC
Occupation
Retired Electrical Contractor
If it originates at the meter and not the house service panel or any point ahead of the service disconnect and has no overcurrent protection then it is a service and not a feeder no matter what code is in force.

If a service running, an EGC only makes a parallel neutral unless you can get around not having a main bonding jumper at the load end.

Gotcha, I have never really run into an install like that. I thought you were getting at the difference between the '05 & '08 on this.
 

danickstr

Senior Member
in residential yards with run that long, I think I would use sch 80 as well, just for a bit of extra post hole digger protection.
 
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