'Switch' Box clamp Fill

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tortuga

tortuga

Code Historian
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Oregon
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Electrical Design
Greetings all I am looking over Raco's and T&B's metal switch type boxes for the smallest one gang metal box that will accept one 12/2 MC cable and a device, that can be cut into a end cabinet that contains some drawers.
Some of these come with a MC clamp built in:
https://www.hubbell.com/raco/en/Products/Electrical-Electronic/Boxes/Switch-Boxes/518S/p/2141419

I come up with a minimum fill of 13.5 Cubic inches when I count the built in cable clamp as per 314.16(B)(2)
Raco states the box comes with a #12 grounding pigtail.
But there is no way we can have a device and a 12/2 in the box, unless the clamp does not count, or several boxes are ganged together.
I frequently see these used with even 2 cables and a device am I missing some exemption these boxes have for counting the built in MC cable clamp?

Thanks in advance
 
What happens if you remove one clamp, or use an MC connector instead?

What is the greatest depth that will fit? Can you move up or down a bit?
 
LarryFine said:
What happens if you remove one clamp, or use an MC connector instead?

What is the greatest depth that will fit? Can you move up or down a bit?
Click to expand...

Good point thank you, the Raco 500 is also 12.5 CUIN and comes with no clamp and it works for one 12/2 and a device at 11.25 CUIN calculated fill.

However I am trying to come up with a design that will be easy to work with for the field electricians, hence the clamp.
I know it can be annoying to fight a MC connector and a box into the tiny cutout in a 7/8" or 3/4" thick cabinet.
Also the 1/2" K/O for the connector seems like its not as far back in the box as the clamp making the device wiring more difficult.
 
LarryFine said:
What happens if you remove one clamp, or use an MC connector instead?

What is the greatest depth that will fit? Can you move up or down a bit?
Click to expand...


Removing one clamp doesn't doesn't help because you count all the clamps as one. An mc connector would work.

But why are you using a box and not a sillite receptacle. These work great at the back end of the draw


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Dennis Alwon said:
Removing one clamp doesn't doesn't help because you count all the clamps as one. An mc connector would work.

But why are you using a box and not a sillite receptacle. These work great at the back end of the draw


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Click to expand...
Wow!
Thank you.
I also did finally find a 14CUIN box that accepts a MC cable with a clamp;
Raco 570RAC or Steel City CWX-25 http://www-public.tnb.com/ps/fulltilt/index.cgi?part=CWX25&co=US#
https://www.hubbell.com/raco/en/Pro...ch-Boxes/570RAC/p/1670315#prod-detail-section
 
The only issue with the sillite receptacle is you need a 1 3/4" bit. Use it for nothing else and keep the teeth covered and it will last a long time. I don't know why anyone would use something else as there as perfect, they are TR and can even accept 2 conductors per side. I have used 2- 12/2 nm cables with this but it is tight so you may try and plan for just one cable in the device
 
Dennis Alwon said:
The only issue with the sillite receptacle is you need a 1 3/4" bit. Use it for nothing else and keep the teeth covered and it will last a long time. I don't know why anyone would use something else as there as perfect, they are TR and can even accept 2 conductors per side. I have used 2- 12/2 nm cables with this but it is tight so you may try and plan for just one cable in the device
Click to expand...

I think the OP is wanting to use MC.

infinity said:
If the depth is an issue use a 1900 box with a 3/4" mud ring.
Click to expand...

That is an excellent idea, one I didn't think of because the OP got me derailed by insisting he couldn't use anything but a cut-in Jem box. He certainly should be able to pull out the drawer to gain access to the inside of the cabinet to install a 1900 box and mud ring.

-Hal
 
tortuga said:
Greetings all I am looking over Raco's and T&B's metal switch type boxes for the smallest one gang metal box that will accept one 12/2 MC cable and a device, that can be cut into a end cabinet that contains some drawers.
Click to expand...

hbiss said:
infinity said:
If the depth is an issue use a 1900 box with a 3/4" mud ring.
Click to expand...
That is an excellent idea, one I didn't think of because the OP got me derailed by insisting he couldn't use anything but a cut-in Jem box. He certainly should be able to pull out the drawer to gain access to the inside of the cabinet to install a 1900 box and mud ring.
Click to expand...

The problem is that many cabinets have the drawer slide screwed to the end cabinet wall. That means the depth the box has to work with (from side of drawer to finished cabinet end face) is, maybe, 1-1/4".

The only way to reliably deal with this I have found is to require allowances from the cabinet maker, if custom, --or-- to hope and pray there is enough of a gap somewhere for the overly deep GEM box to slip into between or behind drawers.
 
You know, there is such a thing shortening the drawer too. :happyyes: Why do some electricians jump through hoops to work around what others provide? When ordering base cabinets one of the order items should be clearance to allow for receptacle installation where specified. It's not like we started having to install receptacles on cabinets yesterday.

-Hal
 
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hbiss said:
You know, there is such a thing shortening the drawer too. :happyyes: Why do some electricians jump through hoops to work around what others provide? When ordering base cabinets one of the order items should be clearance to allow for receptacle installation where specified. It's not like we started having to install receptacles on cabinets yesterday.

-Hal
Click to expand...
Yeah people expect us to be able to wire into whatever they ordered, I brought that up at a meeting with the contractor and gave them the specs for those Raco boxes to incorporate in their orders ( and one of those silllights ). A 1-1/4 depth 1900 box with a mud ring might actually might clear but I have not come up with a way to mount it.
 
tortuga said:
Yeah people expect us to be able to wire into whatever they ordered, I brought that up at a meeting with the contractor and gave them the specs for those Raco boxes to incorporate in their orders ( and one of those silllights ). A 1-1/4 depth 1900 box with a mud ring might actually might clear but I have not come up with a way to mount it.
Click to expand...

Silicone, construction adhesive, etc. Have done it many times. Besides once the device and plate are on it's not going to move.
 
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