Sylvania subpanel question

Status
Not open for further replies.

chetwynd

Member
Location
Northern California
Occupation
General Contractor with electrical and plumbing classifications.
Hi guys - how much do I need to be concerned about this Sylvania subpanel from the 1980s? Clean install, but my options for swapping it out for Square D QO or Homeline are limited by the fact that I only have 11" of width unless I want to rip the wall apart - which I don't.

What are my options for making it "safer" according to the bad reputation these panels seem to have?

I need to add a 20 amp single pole breaker to this subpanel - what kind of breaker do I use given these are discontinued? (assuming I don't replace the whole thing)

Thank you!
 

Attachments

  • !cid_9D861775-5AFA-473D-9E52-2ECC7DCD0F3D.jpg
    !cid_9D861775-5AFA-473D-9E52-2ECC7DCD0F3D.jpg
    162.2 KB · Views: 28
Last edited:

chetwynd

Member
Location
Northern California
Occupation
General Contractor with electrical and plumbing classifications.
Still researching...I guess it's a Zinsco piece of crap. So, let's talk about my options. If I wasn't limited to 11" width, I'd swap it out with a Square D panel and be done in 2 hours. The width is the issue. Any suggestions? Thank you.
 

jim dungar

Moderator
Staff member
Location
Wisconsin
Occupation
PE (Retired) - Power Systems
Still researching...I guess it's a Zinsco piece of crap. So, let's talk about my options. If I wasn't limited to 11" width, I'd swap it out with a Square D panel and be done in 2 hours. The width is the issue. Any suggestions? Thank you.
About 40yrs ago the UL wire bending spaces changed, forcing load centers to their current 14" width.
 

chetwynd

Member
Location
Northern California
Occupation
General Contractor with electrical and plumbing classifications.
About 40yrs ago the UL wire bending spaces changed, forcing load centers to their current 14" width.
I see, interesting. I'm looking at the possibility that I don't have a narrow stud bay, that I just have a normal stud bay with furring strips to make it narrow enough to mount the panel to both sides....in which case I could open the wall and rip out the strips and just use a standard width panel. Was hoping to avoid the mess.

I probably wouldn't bother with this but I do plan to sell this house at some point and I don't need any issues from home inspectors.
 

chetwynd

Member
Location
Northern California
Occupation
General Contractor with electrical and plumbing classifications.
Ok, let me ask you this. This panel looks pretty clean, but at some point I may sell the property and don't want to run into any home inspector issues where a buyer insists that I replace it. Other than the off chance that I have a bad one, would you replace it?

One thing to note is that the heaviest loads (two AC units, a pool pump, EV charger) are all wired directly to the main panel on their own circuits. Everything in this panel are minimal-load circuits other than the electric dryer and oven.

It would be a pain to replace, so would you?
 

jim dungar

Moderator
Staff member
Location
Wisconsin
Occupation
PE (Retired) - Power Systems
Ok, let me ask you this. This panel looks pretty clean, but at some point I may sell the property and don't want to run into any home inspector issues where a buyer insists that I replace it. Other than the off chance that I have a bad one, would you replace it?

One thing to note is that the heaviest loads (two AC units, a pool pump, EV charger) are all wired directly to the main panel on their own circuits. Everything in this panel are minimal-load circuits other than the electric dryer and oven.

It would be a pain to replace, so would you?
A real estate home inspector can only make suggestions. It is your insurance I would be concerned with.
Get an estimate for a replacement, offer that amount of discount to any buyer that raises a question.
 
Status
Not open for further replies.
Top