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T&G lighting option

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cadpoint

Senior Member
Location
Durham, NC
My belief is that the client or GC or both missed the mark to what the desired end result would or could be.
IE it's not your problem to fix.

The biggest problem I see is that notching wood to install anything in any fashion will involve getting the
structural engineer involved for blessing and sealed sign-off.

Sure the linked pages show illumination spread for various designed layouts, you don't or didn't get that nor have the luxury.
Point is IMO you didn't have enough distance with the angle of the roof and the top of the center beam to illuminate correctly.

The real problem in this situation is that the quality of the illumination can't be de-picked correctly in CAD. It's an angled roof.
LED manufactures use Kelvin to show light "warmth" or hues of color but have generally all but abandoned spread patterns.
This spread is implied with pretty illustrations but not detailed for the end user to install.

Here what I'd do, if your still involved.
If you get the sign off on making holes. In the rafters, set up three different types of very good LED strips.
Center one on beam, a bay over, set up a pair sided by side on center of beam, third bay install a piece of 90* aluminum and place
a strip on each side. Let the owner see them illuminated into the evening-night. They probable want them to dim-able so keep
that in mind.

I believe I'd put everything on an aluminum strips to help with heat build up.

Good luck
 

cadpoint

Senior Member
Location
Durham, NC
Yes, i'm thinking across the top, mood lighting,(which IMO won't give much illumination) if it was presented or
I missed it, OK I got locked into that thinking with 2" clearance. 2" where, :)
A bottom application opens things up, but again, it's on them it's not your mistake.
 

AC\DC

Senior Member
Location
Florence,Oregon,Lane
Occupation
EC
do you have a good insert light you would recommend. I like your idea mixed with post # 2-18
All the ones I found have very large housing and I can’t take a lot of meat out of that beam I think it’s a 6x10 I’ll have to verify.
 

AC\DC

Senior Member
Location
Florence,Oregon,Lane
Occupation
EC
The plans don't really show them. I sat down with them and said from the lighting layout that they should have more Light above there. ( Guess I know why now lol)
Then 6 months latter I see what they have.
Just double checked my Estimate and I stated I quoted off original that does not have these in them. Thank god.
Though her one wall wash light won't light anything.
 

LarryFine

Master Electrician Electric Contractor Richmond VA
Location
Henrico County, VA
Occupation
Electrical Contractor
do you have a good insert light you would recommend. I like your idea mixed with post # 2-18
All the ones I found have very large housing and I can’t take a lot of meat out of that beam I think it’s a 6x10 I’ll have to verify.
Do a search for "micro led recessed lights" and look at images.
 

wwhitney

Senior Member
Location
Berkeley, CA
Occupation
Retired
shingle roof over 3/4 plywood over 1”1/2 T&G . Solid no space between anything.
That's a pretty dumb ceiling/roof assembly--does Oregon not have an energy code that would dictate a minimum level of thermal insulation? What's the air barrier and how is it integrated with the wall air barrier?

Cheers, Wayne
 

wwhitney

Senior Member
Location
Berkeley, CA
Occupation
Retired
NP. Does that mean fixtures will need to be damp location listed? Certainly the range of temperatures and humidities they will be exposed to will be quite a bit larger than in conditioned space.

Cheers, Wayne
 

AC\DC

Senior Member
Location
Florence,Oregon,Lane
Occupation
EC
Correct on the damp location. Are climate is extremely mild. Rarely freezes and only a couple days over high 80’s.
Humidity if the same inside the house or outside usually 65.
So not really worried about that..
I’ll talk to her about what was mentioned on here.
 

jaggedben

Senior Member
Location
Northern California
Occupation
Solar and Energy Storage Installer
shingle roof over 3/4 plywood over 1”1/2 T&G . Solid no space between anything.
By roof system he means the roofing material on top, not the decking. No insulation? I'm not saying it's a good idea but I've seen houses where romex was run on top of the roof decking, where there was rigid insulation raising the actual roofing material a inches higher above. It asks a lot of the roofers though. Armored cable would obviously be better.
 

AC\DC

Senior Member
Location
Florence,Oregon,Lane
Occupation
EC
There would be no way to get 1”1/4 depth to avoid nail plates. And roofers with nail guns will shoot through nail plates so I got to get something thicker.
I don’t see why nm would not work armor cable is not impenetrable from nail guns.
 

curt swartz

Electrical Contractor - San Jose, CA
Location
San Jose, CA
Occupation
Electrical Contractor
We have done quite a few ceilings this way. Just roughed in one 2 weeks ago.

We drill 4" holes through the T&G and use standard 1-1/2" 4/0 metal boxes secured with screws through the sides. The GC routes groves sideways in the T&G from the boxes to the closest beams then route groves in the T&G up and down centered over the beams. Once we install the boxes they install flat plates over the 4/0 boxes and heavy duty straps over the wires.

For fixtures we ususlly use some type of flat panel LED.
 
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