t12 - t8 ballast replacement

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jimbo123

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When changing out lights from t12 -t8 should the sockets be replaced ? Either bulb will fit into either socket , some sockets are shunted. Not sure ballast diagram indicates type of sockets.
 
jimbo123 said:
When changing out lights from t12 -t8 should the sockets be replaced ? Either bulb will fit into either socket , some sockets are shunted. Not sure ballast diagram indicates type of sockets.
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It's just a matter of time and cost. What costs more? New sockets, or the time to install properly using existing sockets?

T12 rapid start to T8 instant start requires that you shunt the two pins as close to the socket as possible and you'll have to do this on the lift. If you don't shunt it, lamps will fail prematurely.

The non-shunted sockets are for rapid start. If you use shunted sockets with programmed rapid start, you'll fry the ballasts.

Or you can have some laborer prepare ballasts in your shop with new sockets. Trim ballast wires and pre-attach new shunted sockets in your shop. Yank sockets out of fixture by the old ballast leads. Slip in new sockets and ballast. This is not an option if they're unusual expensive sockets in existing fixtures.
 
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Electric-Light said:
It's just a matter of time and cost. What costs more? New sockets, or the time to install properly using existing sockets?

T12 rapid start to T8 instant start requires that you shunt the two pins as close to the socket as possible and you'll have to do this on the lift. If you don't shunt it, lamps will fail prematurely.

The non-shunted sockets are for rapid start. If you use shunted sockets with programmed rapid start, you'll fry the ballasts.

Or you can have some laborer prepare ballasts in your shop with new sockets. Trim ballast wires and pre-attach new shunted sockets in your shop. Yank sockets out of fixture by the old ballast leads. Slip in new sockets and ballast. This is not an option if they're unusual expensive sockets in existing fixtures.
Click to expand...

What i have done with the converison is cut the sockets and wire nut both wires to the single ballast wire of the T-8 ballast. I only change the socket if there is damage to the socket. to much time removing the socket bars for me.
 
Barndog said:
What i have done with the converison is cut the sockets and wire nut both wires to the single ballast wire of the T-8 ballast. I only change the socket if there is damage to the socket. to much time removing the socket bars for me.
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We do it the same as Barndog, but we use Wagos rather than wirenuts.

Thank god for Wagos on ballast retrofits!!
 
Cow said:
We do it the same as Barndog, but we use Wagos rather than wirenuts.

Thank god for Wagos on ballast retrofits!!
Click to expand...

How close to the socket are you guys installing jumpers? Not installing is definitely a bad idea, but even installing them closer to ballast where its more convenient is detrimental to lamp life.

Long jumpers substantially reduce lamp life.
b6agjm.jpg
 
Electric-Light said:
How close to the socket are you guys installing jumpers? Not installing is definitely a bad idea, but even installing them closer to ballast where its more convenient is detrimental to lamp life.

Long jumpers substantially reduce lamp life.
b6agjm.jpg
Click to expand...

I cut them as close to the socket bar and still being able to make my splice.
 
Electric-Light said:
How close to the socket are you guys installing jumpers? Not installing is definitely a bad idea, but even installing them closer to ballast where its more convenient is detrimental to lamp life.

Long jumpers substantially reduce lamp life.
b6agjm.jpg
Click to expand...

Apparently not as close as we should be. We usually clip the wires off next to the old ballast and then hook onto them right there with the new ballast wires.

Live and learn.
 
wankster said:
I have had issues with these types of connectors before. much like a backwire outlet, the connection seemed to loosen over time and was the cause of a warranty issue service call. i prefer a more positive connection.
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That's how the wires are held in the actual sockets.
 
wankster said:
I have had issues with these types of connectors before. much like a backwire outlet, the connection seemed to loosen over time and was the cause of a warranty issue service call. i prefer a more positive connection.
Click to expand...

I've done a lot of retrofits using those Ideal connectors and never had a problem.

When I try and take one of these connections apart it takes quite a bit of force and twisting to do it....
 
Cow said:
I've done a lot of retrofits using those Ideal connectors and never had a problem.

When I try and take one of these connections apart it takes quite a bit of force and twisting to do it....
Click to expand...

my issues were with can lights that came with them from the factory.
 
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