Tankless job. (pun intended)

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I 'm not sure what to make of them, I tend to be a tried and true kinda guy.
This is from the link that Bob provided , ...

Code Rules ? Load Calculations.


For new dwellings, the service load should be calculated using NEC 220-30. For existing dwellings, the service load should be calculated using NEC 220-31. By both calculation methods, the Seisco load is generally added to the service load at 40% of it?s maximum nameplate rating. For instance, the maximum current (amp) rating of the Seisco Model RA-28 is 116 amps and 40% of this rating is about 47 amps. The 47 amps is typically the load added to the overall service load of the dwelling when using the optional calculation methods as described in NEC 220-30 and 220-31, not the maximum current rating, 116 amps.
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sparkzilla said:
I put one in my own house a couple of years ago. It was a Seisco 28 kw I got through Costco. The manufacturer sales rep said that it would run 4 showers at once. Installed, it wouldn't keep up with one shower and the lights would dim. I have a newer 200 amp service and very little other load. I amp checked the heater in operation, and it was in limits. I don't think I did a voltage check, though. I wish I would have.
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28kw x 3.4 btu/watt = 95200 btu/hr = prox 1600 btu/min.

If we are heating 50 deg F water to 125 deg F at thats 75 deg delta X 8.3 lb/gallon = 620 btus per gallon of water heated, so the unit at full voltage should be able to heat 2.5 gallons per minute.
 
tohatsu said:
I was seriously thinking of installing a Seisco tankless water heater in my own home in the very near future because my 50 gal electric tank heater is on its last legs.But after reading some of the posts I am now not so sure.I do have a 200amp SQ D main panel and I would have to install a sub panel if I decide to do this but is it really worth it?Would I save that much over the years?Does anyone here really know how well that they perform and are they basicaly trouble free units?Then there is the added cost of the sub panel and not to mention the cost of the 45 ft of feeder cable.I just don't know if it's really worth it.What do you guys think?
Rick
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A good way to save money with a conventional electric water heater is to use it with a time switch. I've used an Intermatic WH40 "Little Gray Box" with my 50 gallon heater for many trouble free years. Set it to turn the heater on for the times of day when there is likely to be a demand for hot water. There is rarely a need to have the heater cycle on / off all day long. Saves energy and wear & tear on your heater. My last "6 year" water heater recently expired after 17 years of service! :smile:
 
I have installed quite a few Seisco RA 22 and RA28. They are fine here in the desert where the groundwater never gets colder than about 65 degrees farenheit. But I'm not so sure they are a good choice in a colder climate.

In reality, most of the time the overall extra cost to purchase, install and maintain one will not be recovered within the lifetime of the unit.

I have a RA 22 at a rental unit, two circuit boards in 6 years at $100 each, and that's with me installing them. (Don't ever let the board get wet!)

The only reason to go electric tankless is when the space is needed and there is no gas available to the dwelling. I put the RA 22 in the rental to make room for a stacked washer/dryer. The only reason it paid for itself was the increased rent.
 
Becks Number 1 Rule of Over Current Protection?

You do not rely on a breaker tripping as a means for testing the installation
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There has been a lot of discussion on this forum and other forums regarding the buffer allowed in load calculations (how a 200 amp residential service seldom draws the calculated loads). There is a good reason for this IMO, when anything (electrical, mechanical and humans for that matter) runs at 80%-100% load for extended periods of time the chance for break down increases.

One of the most common equipment discrepancies we see in IR scanning, is cooling tower and elevator FSS's where the loads are between 65-80 amps on a 100 amp FSS. In year one this may show up as a Class I discrepancy, if the customer does not do the recommended repair by year two it is a Class III discrepancy and needs immediate replacement.
 
brian john said:
One of the most common equipment discrepancies we see in IR scanning, is cooling tower and elevator FSS's where the loads are between 65-80 amps on a 100 amp FSS. In year one this may show up as a Class I discrepancy, if the customer does not do the recommended repair by year two it is a Class III discrepancy and needs immediate replacement.
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Could you translate this please? :) I know what IR scanning is, but I don't know what "FSS" and Class 1&3 discrepancies are.
 
I imagine Class I is roughly translated as "Hey, you might outta address this..." and a Class III is a "I hope you're fully insured, because this is going to combust in one hour and twenty-seven minutes!!!"
 
and counting 27, 26, 25

and counting 27, 26, 25

georgestolz said:
I imagine Class I is roughly translated as "Hey, you might outta address this..." and a Class III is a "I hope you're fully insured, because this is going to combust in one hour and twenty-seven minutes!!!"
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Some days I love this forum ...........
:)
 
Seisco SH-11

Seisco SH-11

I was going to instal a Seisco SH-11 in a cottage for a customer. No one in my area could give me any info on it. Good or bad!

Basically the SH-11 is an electric micr-boiler.

Customer wanted to use it for a heating loop but was afraid that the dam thing would stay on all day. Electrical company was supposed to give a special meter that was for "green" homes in which the rate for kilowatt would be reduced from .22 to .08 cents.

Even though no one could give any reviews good or bad on this system.

Anyone have any experience with these?
 
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