Tanning Beds

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scootk70

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Allentown, PA
A client is to purchase three (3) new tanning beds and requested a connection to
existing wiring.

1?, 1.0kVA, 120/230V Pri., 12/24V Sec. XFMR
Sec. fed from 2P30A/208V, 1?

I have not seen a connection like this. Is this code compliant :?

Thanx for your input.
 
A client is to purchase three (3) new tanning beds and requested a connection to
existing wiring.

1?, 1.0kVA, 120/230V Pri., 12/24V Sec. XFMR
Sec. fed from 2P30A/208V, 1?

I have not seen a connection like this. Is this code compliant :?

Thanx for your input.

It's a boost transformer to step your voltage up from 208 to 230.

I have connected up a tanning bed at a residense and from that checked on them further. Most require a transformer (buck/boost) to keep the voltage at or very close to recommended voltage. Even with 240V they have you use the transformer or they won't warranty the bed.

Also, a lot of people (including myself when I first connected one) get confused with the 24V rating of the buck/boost. What you have to do is find the wiring diagram included with the transformer that matches the voltage you need.
 
Most tanning bed manufactures are very strict when it comes to the voltage they are required to run on, Tan America's beds for the most part have 220 volt VHO ballast for the linear lamps, and lamp life is very critical with customers as voltage can shorten the lamp life or change output, which this can be very dangerous and can cause people to be burned or not receive a good tan, its not like our lamps we use as the lamps don't fail to light but the UV output decays very fast when the ballast is operated at the wrong voltage, while these commercial beds do come with a multi voltage tap system in many of them that have a transformer built in, but some don't, so I try to tell my customers it is wise to make sure you order the correct voltage beds for the power system you have as for me to address the system with a buck boost will be much more expensive after the fact.

I believe many manufactures are moving to a special electronic ballast ballast system that will automatically adjust the input voltage to maintain a constant output over a large range of voltages so the lamp output will not will not change and the beds can be operated from 208 thru 277 with problems, but since I have not wired any in a while not sure they made this change, with the dangers in mind I think UL should require this as part of its listing for tanning beds?

I had one salon that not only had a 800 amp 120/240 volt single phase service but also had three 120/208 services in some areas (strip mall where he owned 4 units)

After messing up twice because he could not remember what he had in which area, he now calls me before he orders a bed, of course this only worked until get got a brain storm to move beds around and tried to move a 100 amp 3-phase stand up bed into an area with only 120/240 single phase, and a few other moves he tried, this stand up bed (Matrix's) was a 240 volt 3-phase bed and required three 4kw buck boost 16/32 volt to boost the 208 up to 240 so we had to run a 125 amp feeder all the way to this bed using 1/0 copper to keep the VD down to 2%, left the BB transformers at the panel where they we mounted them the first time.

I got so many call back on tanning beds I learned to not like wiring them, even though most of the calls were billable but the owners would argue every time as the manufactures would always try to place the blame on us for lamp failure or other failures such as the cheap molex plugs used in these bed, or the IEC contactors and many other wiring problems with them.

It got so bad that I had to put a to the point disclaimer in my contract as to what my services covered including that I would not be responsible to variances in the utility supplied voltage if it should change that would cause any abnormal behavior in the equipment I was wiring, also I added that any changes required to facilitate any beds ordered for the wrong voltage would be an extra to be billed on the time and material bases.

Just a heads up for anyone who gets into wiring tanning salons;)
 
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Thank you all for the responses.
This is the best place to get answers.

I was looking for the 10% Boost XFMR in the UGLY's :slaphead:

Please note that when you connect a B-B transformer it is EXTREMELY IMMPORTANT to understand and follow the wiring diagram. B-B transformers go against our common transformer knowledge as they don't isolate but are essentially wired in series in the circuit in order to either buck or boost the voltage. If not connected properly you can get some dangerous as well as disastrous voltages.
 
On the Tan America Matrix bed I mention above because of the 240 volt rated ballast I had to use a 240/480 X 16/32 which is a 7.5 ratio which gave me 235.7 volts.

Also to the OP'er to calculate the required current to supply the boost transformer remember it will be more then the beds required current, so you will have to the KW rating of the bed then divide it by the 208 volts.

Lets say you have a 9kw bed (1kw BB transformer), / at 240 volts this would be 37.5 amps but / at 208 its 43.3 amps, also placing the 1kw BB transformer close to the panel where you supply it from is best because it have the branch circuit run at a lower current and voltage drop will be a little less.

While 450.4(A) allows up to 125% on the breaker, it can be lower and since 43.3 amps + the 125% is 54 amps which is not a common sized breaker and is over 9 amps the next size up is allowed and a 60 amp breaker would be fine, the 37.5 load +125% is 46.9 so a wire size of 8 copper would be fine to the bed from the transformer.

Here is a little info on Buck Boost transformers:

Click here

The one thing to remember is anytime you use a buck boost transformer, the line to neutral voltage also changes, with a 22 volt boost such as you have will add this 22 volts to the line to neutral voltage resulting in a voltage of 142 volts, the reason I mention this is many beds come with a 120 volt outlet to plug in a DC power supply to power an inbed car radio/CD player, if a BB transformer is used you can no longer use this receptacle and it should be disconnected and the DC power supply ran to a wall receptacle instead.

While HV1 and LV1 are common and would provide 120 volts to a supplied neutral from the service, you would have to make sure the receptacle is on HV1 which would make the job harder and if anyone else ever swapped the hots it would again be supplied with a higher voltage kind of like having a high leg delta.

Also I have never seen any beds (except small home types) that have 120 volt ballast but this could be a problem if using a buck/boost transformer.

Also "here" are some wiring diagrams that might help but follow the one that came with your transformer
 
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