Tape or no tape?

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Hey Celtic, the CONtractor thought that was a rough inspection!!!

Makes me appreciate guys like Pierre all the more!

Thankfully this clown was caught, hope he gets his license yanked. Guy wasn't qualified to wire a two stool Dairy Queen.
 
I am privelged to have a copy of "Wiring...1 2 3", the official publication of all electrical knowledge. In it, they recommend using black phase tape on both devices as well as wire nuts. So there...

Note that they do recommend using Scotch 33+ for this purpose and not the cheap stuff.
Seriously, I tape the devices but not the wirenuts except maybe outdoors. It seems to add a little margin of safety for about 1 cent worth of tape. [60' of tape @ $.59/roll = ~$.01] For a professional touch, U also fold about 1/4" of the end back on itself to provide for easy removal if ever necessary.
~Peter
 
peter said:
I am privelged to have a copy of "Wiring...1 2 3", the official publication of all electrical knowledge. In it, they recommend using black phase tape on both devices as well as wire nuts. So there...
162397_3.jpg


By far the best electrical reference ever printed

mib_neuralyzer.jpg


Forget I said that :D
 
Pierre,

If I had to guess, I'd have to bet that the license holder was never on the job and probably hired day laborers (who did not have proper training or experience) to do the work. While there's no law in hiring day workers, he is still the license holder and is ultimately responsible. I used to do sub-contract work for a company in Rockland Cty., NY that did the same thing on many occasions. The owner once hired a young fellow from India who could barely speak English and sent him out to inspect fire alarm systems. He pulled a manual station at a gas station (not knowing what it was for) and dumped dry chemical on a lady filling up her car. Yes, there was a lawsuit. One of my instructors/inspector used to say, "I know whether you were on the job or not as soon as I pull up to inspect. That's when I grab the red stickers." Sorry you had to waste your time but glad to have inspectors like you.

Anyway, getting back to tape or no tape, I'm with Allenwayne on this one and for the same reasons and especially when using those metal spark guards (that's a sore subject from another thread).

Phil,

Gold Star Electric
New Jersey
 
As far as whether or not a "rough" inspection was performed, I cannot discuss here as there is an investigation as to the "inspector" who did the rough inspection...

And yes it is usually an inspection like this that proves someone who holds a license should supervise 'his' work, as his license agreement says he is responsible, not really his workers. He has been handed quite the lawsuit for this project (not from the inspection company, from the building owner). He has another application for inspection with our company, but has of yet to call for the inspection...I bet he is rewiring that job.

The only real good thing about a job like this companys job is it keeps inspection companys JOB SECURITY. :)
Self certification for jobs takes a big hit with situations like this.
 
If I had to guess, I'd have to bet that the license holder was never on the job and probably hired day laborers (who did not have proper training or experience) to do the work. While there's no law in hiring day workers, he is still the license holder and is ultimately responsible.
There is an interesting contrast between this and the comments in the thread about Tallgirl and a volunteer crew running NM in New Orleans.

I have seen a lot of work by volunteers and they are usually conscientious and understand their limits. They are a whole lot better than nobodys off the street who care only about appearing to do enough work to get paid at the end of the day.
 
Bob NH said:
There is an interesting contrast between this and the comments in the thread about Tallgirl and a volunteer crew running NM in New Orleans.

I have seen a lot of work by volunteers and they are usually conscientious and understand their limits. They are a whole lot better than nobodys off the street who care only about appearing to do enough work to get paid at the end of the day.

Electrical volunteers are a mixed bag. Some are doing it because it's gee-whiz-bang.

Speaking about me, I remember the reaction here when I first mentioned I'd pulled wires with volunteer groups over the years.

ANYWAY, in my experience, volunteers fall into two broad categories -- people who want to do the work to get some kind of recognition or raise awareness, and people who want to learn more about what they are doing (or who already know what they are doing). The first kind seems less aware of their limitations, but they aren't going to be doing it over and over and over again. They just want to put in an appearance for their company, or use the photo op to convince others to help out -- a PR sort of deal, very important in its own right. The second kind asks entirely too many questions and are generally annoying and will likely return for years to come and continue to be a pain in your butt. (Could any of y'all tell me how you strip the sheath off of 12/3? I have my own way of doing it, but every now and again I nick a wire, which is really embarassing. I'm collecting tips and techniques. Thanks. Sorry for the digression. Oh -- don't have that problem with 12/2 -- just the round stuff with the twisted up whars ...)
 
tallgirl said:
ANYWAY, in my experience, volunteers fall into two broad categories --
I find it's 3 catergories:
1 - the PR type
2 - the people that actually want to help (generally clueless, but motivated)
3 - the "pro's" who just want to get it done like any other job.


tallgirl said:
(Could any of y'all tell me how you strip the sheath off of 12/3?
Take a sharp knife (dull blades usually hurt the user), and SCORE - not CUT, the outer jacket, bend it back a forth, then pull - it'll come right off.

When cutting in boxes, I leave the sheath on the wire - makes it easier to jam into the KO's and can be removed from inside the box easily.

For cutting in panels, I may score the length of the wire or score it around a few times....always BEFORE I enter the panel.

I'm sure others have their own preferences.

For 12 & 14/2 I use Klien 1412 (they also make 1210 for #12 & 10):

1412.png


[Klein Tools]
 
emahler said:
Any old work with a metal gem and madison bars gets taped. Especially 277V switches....

I do it on these as well. As a matter of fact I do it on all metal outlet boxes including the plaster rings. Just a little bit of safety for the next person who accidentally shorts it out against the box and doesn't have to change his/her laundry.
 
I like to put electrical tape on wire nut connections for small motor connections to prevent loosening from vibration. Also when there is a chance of moisture or other foreign materials getting into the peckerhead, I'll put tape over the wire nut connections. This is especially true with ODP motors.
 
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