Tesla charger w/ adjustable output

Status
Not open for further replies.
infinity said:
That's all well and good but it still overlooks the actual words of the NEC which are maximum load of the equipment. Are you saying that the 80 amp setting is not the maximum load of the equipment?
Click to expand...
I would say it is the maximum rating of the equipment.
Settings may be turned down to restrict the maximum load placed on it.
 
texie said:
That is my view. You are internally setting the maximum load just as you do some spas and other equipment.
Click to expand...

Do those spas and other equipment fall under NEC wording that specifies the maximum load of the equipment?

I'm not disagreeing with you I'm just trying to understand where the inspector is coming from. If you have a piece of equipment with a dial to change the load and it falls under Article 620 where explicitly it states use the maximum load of the equipment can we ignore that wording?
 
Besoeker said:
I would say it is the maximum rating of the equipment.
Settings may be turned down to restrict the maximum load placed on it.
Click to expand...

Bingo!

infinity said:
If you have a piece of equipment with a dial to change the load and it falls under Article 620 where explicitly it states use the maximum load of the equipment can we ignore that wording?
Click to expand...

What Besoeker said.
 
You know some of these car charging circuits just go to an outlet and the EVSE is a plug-in device. So the user could decide in some cases to replace the EVSE device with a higher rated one. Is it a violation to have such a setup? And how is that substantively different from the case of (nominally non-user) adjustable equipment? To my mind the former is arguably worse, since simply plugging a different device into a compatible socket is not something that involves willful idiocy, as modifying equipment settings or changing breakers does.

When code language is this ambiguous I revert to the basic common sense safety logic. The bottom line from a safety standpoint is that the breaker protects the conductors. If we can't rely on that then the entire code is out the window. So I say just rely on that.
 
infinity said:
That's all well and good but it still overlooks the actual words of the NEC which are maximum load of the equipment. Are you saying that the 80 amp setting is not the maximum load of the equipment?
Click to expand...

The setting is not the load.
The EV car is the load.
Without a care connected there is no load.


Look at it this way
Most of the EV vehicles can charge by a 120v 20 amp , 20 amp 240v , 30a 240v ,,,,........
Are you saying that you cannot charge by those lower currents because the car which is the load can charge at much higher currents?

The EV car must have a such a system otherwise the car would have to have multiple charging inlets for different currents.

Gee wiz folks, The Tesla charges at 480v at the super charger station through the same inlet.
 
Besoeker said:
So if the current is set to 50A and that is not adjustable by the user then the output max will be 50A.
Does that answer your "so what"?
If you have a different question why don't you just state in plain terms?
Click to expand...

Sorry I don't see the code where is states that there cannot be a selector switch on a smart connector to limit the charge current of a EV . How then is it to happen?
furthermore, the way some are interpreting this no one can use any type of connector or device or EV that does not have the capacity to charge a EV at it's maximum.
 
pv_n00b said:
Also, what if the owner buys a new car in 4 years and can use a higher charge rate? Better to have everything in place now I would think.
Click to expand...

It's still the owner's decision as to whether he wants added capability now, later, or never. He might only have so many amps available from his main panel, or he may have a limited budget for the project and just wants the smaller wire, banking on sufficient charging time instead of amount. It's his call.

The product seems well designed to take full advantage of this. The inspector is wrong.
 
Sierrasparky said:
Sorry I don't see the code where is states that there cannot be a selector switch on a smart connector to limit the charge current of a EV . How then is it to happen?
furthermore, the way some are interpreting this no one can use any type of connector or device or EV that does not have the capacity to charge a EV at it's maximum.
Click to expand...
It isn't about the connecters.
The DIP switches are inside the charger.
 
Sequence of Operations

Sequence of Operations

So, just to be sure I understand how it all goes together.

1. There is a circuit run from the service panel to the connector location. This could be a standard 15 amp wall outlet at 120VAC to maybe 100 amps at 240VAC.

2. When you install the connector, you set the dip switch and rotary switch on it to match the power available.

3. The car actually control the charging, based on the info it reads from the connector.

If I have that right, then the critical thing is that the breaker at the service panel is sized correctly to protect the conductors going out to the connector. If someone decides to "boost" the charge rate and sets the dial up a notch or three, the car will try to draw accordingly, but the breaker in the panel will likely trip. Often, if the owner doesn't get the message.

I suppose if you wanted to, you could set it up so the breaker and conductors could carry the full breaker rating indefinitely. If you come home regularly with less than 25% charge remaining, you will definitely be charging for more than 3 hours.
 
Besoeker said:
It isn't about the connecters.
The DIP switches are inside the charger.
Click to expand...

gadfly56 said:
So, just to be sure I understand how it all goes together.

1. There is a circuit run from the service panel to the connector location. This could be a standard 15 amp wall outlet at 120VAC to maybe 100 amps at 240VAC.

2. When you install the connector, you set the dip switch and rotary switch on it to match the power available.

3. The car actually control the charging, based on the info it reads from the connector.

If I have that right, then the critical thing is that the breaker at the service panel is sized correctly to protect the conductors going out to the connector. If someone decides to "boost" the charge rate and sets the dial up a notch or three, the car will try to draw accordingly, but the breaker in the panel will likely trip. Often, if the owner doesn't get the message.

I suppose if you wanted to, you could set it up so the breaker and conductors could carry the full breaker rating indefinitely. If you come home regularly with less than 25% charge remaining, you will definitely be charging for more than 3 hours.
Click to expand...

Yes
 
Wow, this thread took on an identity of it's own. In light of many of the responses posted I'd like to retract my post # 20 as I was obviously wrong (I'll get the recipe for crow later on). After thinking about this it would be no different than an EC installing a 42 circuit main lug sub-panel and powering it with a 50 amp feeder. You could load that main lug panel with 42 breakers if you wanted to and the maximum draw would still be only 50 amps (not sure why anyone would do that but it would be Code compliant). If the HO had indicated that at some point in time he would like to get the Tesla 80A version of the charger then a 100A circuit should have been run. However, wiring for a std. Tesla charger should be 50A and should be acceptable. If you have to replace the 50A feeder with a 100A in the future that's more $$$ for you.
 
Status
Not open for further replies.
Top