Tesla Charging Stations

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busman

busman

Senior Member
Location
Northern Virginia
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Master Electrician / Electrical Engineer
This will probably sound dumb/trivial, but all of the Tesla stations I have installed are made of plastic and the back surface has multiple knock-outs. The problem is that the plastic is so thick that none of the standard plastic box connectors that I have will grip due to the thickness. I've tried the standard snap in ones and the Raco "inside the box" ones. Has anyone else noticed this? Any solutions. I could put a metal two screw in, but there would be no way to bond it.

Thanks.

Mark
 
busman said:
I could put a metal two screw in, but there would be no way to bond it.
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Use it and don't worry about bonding it. Nobody will be able to see or touch it anyway.

If you're still that worried about it, use a bonding lock-nut or a bonding wedge:

1695835757931.jpeg 1695835777232.jpeg
 
LarryFine said:
Use it and don't worry about bonding it. Nobody will be able to see or touch it anyway.

If you're still that worried about it, use a bonding lock-nut or a bonding wedge:

View attachment 2567684 View attachment 2567685
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Thanks Larry. You are reading my mind. I thought about a bonding locknut but don't know how I would connect it to the EGC, maybe a c-tap?

Mark
 
busman said:
Thanks Larry. You are reading my mind. I thought about a bonding locknut but don't know how I would connect it to the EGC, maybe a c-tap?

Mark
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Is there enough exposed thread to use a grounding bushing?

MWELECC00001_22_TE_001.jpg


Probably overkill, but what the heck.
 
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synchro said:
Is there enough exposed thread to use a grounding bushing?

MWELECC00001_22_TE_001.jpg


Probably overkill, but what the heck.
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Maybe, but probably not. Can any of you think of a plastic connector that would hold the thicker plate.

Thanks again,

Mark
 
I've used 2 screws no problem before. And I've never bonded the 2 screw connector. The old style romex connector with the tab you push in might be thicker. Other option is my favorite. Feed a non fused ac disconnect with aluminum ser and then pipe from disconnect to charger and use copper. It's a lot of optional but it does a clean easy install.
 
Instead of NMB, why not use The ENT? Probably cheaper, and is quite flexible. Bend radius might be a problem, but it is still relatively easy to pull through. The threaded connectors have a lot more threads than the two bolt romex connectors.
 
Looking again at those plastic Arlington connectors I posted above, it looks like they'll only accommodate up to 10/2 UF, and so that would probably be inadequate for your charging station.
 
Thanks for the responses. I should have mentioned that this is 4-3 Romex (Supply House did not have 4-2), so it just barely fits a 3/4 knockout (I can't remember; I might have opened it up to 1"). Did not consider Smurf Tube.

Mark
 
It seems like there are a few charging units out there that are problematic when it comes to hardwiring.

A couple that I’ve done require removing the factory installed 14-50 Cord end and utilizing that opening for hardwiring.

Problem is getting an approved connector to work when you mount it as the opening comes out the back through the heat sync plate.

If I recall the unit from GM for the Hummer/ etc is one of them.
 
busman said:
I appreciate the feedback, but I'm not seeing how this is different from NM cable, unless you mean that I can get it with only 2 hot conductors.
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SE is two insulated conductors; SER is three insulated conductors.

(You can get SER in other conductor counts.)
 
letgomywago said:
Nm-b is 90 degree conductors it's used in the 60degree but in its construction specification it is 90 degree conductors. That's why NM can be used for flush mount fixtures that require 90 degree conductors.
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But you are not going to be allowed 60A or breaker protection of 60A out of the 6/2NM
 
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