Testing MH and HPS bulbs

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dan24

New member
Location
canada
Usually when I get a service call to check out or fix either a MH or HPS lighting fixture, what I do is go to job location, check what type and what wattage bulb it is, and go buy a ballast and bulb. I replace bulb with the new one and if it doesnt light up i change the ballast. I used to think that if i could hear the ballast humming then it was fine, but i was proven wrong. Anyways, so my question is, is there a more efficient way to check if it just the bulb that is burnt or if it is the ballast?I tried testing the socket, but my tester didnt like that too much (probably because of the capacitor) lol. If it makes any difference, i am in canada so voltage usually is either 120 or 347.

thanks
 
kwired

kwired

Electron manager
Location
NE Nebraska
I did not look at the posted guide, but with a HPS or PSMH there is also an ignitor that can fail, and many of them have capacitors that can fail.

It has become standard practice for many to replace lamp - if that doesn't work replace ballast - which usually includes the capacitors and ignitor if required for the lamp type, as it usually results in no call backs. Replace a capacitor only and you may get called back a few days later - the capacitor likley failed because the ballast was on its way to failure in the first place.
 
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Hv&Lv

Senior Member
Location
-
Occupation
Engineer/Technician
kwired said:
I did not look at the posted guide, but with a HPS or PSMH there is also an ignitor that can fail, and many of them have capacitors that can fail.

It has become standard practice for many to replace lamp - if that doesn't work replace ballast - which usually includes the capacitors and ignitor if required for the lamp type, as it usually results in no call backs. Replace a capacitor only and you may get called back a few days later - the capacitor likley failed because the ballast was on its way to failure in the first place.
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I have replaced the cap only in many. same for bulbs. EYE ignitron has reduced our callbacks on starters and starter related ballast problems. I don't like to throw everything at them when we visit them for maintenance. With somewhere around 30,000 lights to maintain, we would be broke replacing ballasts everytime. The booklet Iwire posted is invaluable, along with a good test set.
 
iwire

iwire

Moderator
Staff member
Location
Massachusetts
I have to be honest, if it is not the lamp it gets a kit. I don't bother testing. I just repaired a bunch of 100 watt MH lamps, ballasts, igniters, and caps. None of them had worked in along time so it was a total redo along with washing the lenses.
 
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Hv&Lv

Senior Member
Location
-
Occupation
Engineer/Technician
iwire said:
I have to be honest, if it is not the lamp it gets a kit. I don't bother testing. I just repaired a bunch of 100 watt MH lamps, ballasts, igniters, and caps. None of them had worked in along time so it was a total redo along with washing the lenses.
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I could see installing a kit in those if they hadn't worked in a while. However we usually get a call after one or two nights without the light working. They pay for the light with a monthly fee whether it comes on or not.
 
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BullsnPyrs

Senior Member
Location
Saint Joe, Arkansas
Hv&Lv said:
I could see installing a kit in those if they hadn't worked in a while. However we usually get a call after one or two nights without the light working. They pay for the light with a monthly fee whether it comes on or not.
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Whenni was in Florida we bid some of that nightwatcher work, they wanted us to replace the fixture if it was anything more than a bad photocell.
 
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