The good, the bad and the wago's

[Saturn_Europa]

I have been using Ideal tan twisters almost exclusively since 2016. But these new Wago 221 look really neat. Does anyone have any experience with them?

https://www.wago.com/221/us/

 

[Barbqranch]

We have been using them for a while. They work real well, and you can see if the wire is completely seated. Never have had a problem with them.

 

[peter d]

I could actually get comfortable with that kind of Wago assuming it's cost effective. But I still like wirenuts.

 

[JFletcher]

Yep, the lever locks are great, especially when working of wires of different sizes. Easier to install and remove than wire nuts, the last time I checked they were not available in a 4-port variation, only two three and five.

They are more expensive than wire nuts, however they should more than make up that cost with speed of installation. if roughing in a house, you can go ahead and make up all of your connections permanently, and leave one or more ports open to just pop in a pre pigtailed device.

Edited to add... The design is also amenable to joining copper to aluminum wiring, though they are apparently not listed for that use yet, if they were, they would fantastically awesome versus just very good.

 

[david.mullins]

I've use the 222 series and they work great!

 

[Barbqranch]

I've use the 222 series and they work great!

We used the 222 series, and these a way better. Just being able to see if it is fully seated, as well as the fact that they are smaller, really helps.

 

[kec]

Have used them. Great for solid -stranded wire connections. Flatter profile may help with wire management [i.e dimmers in wall boxes]
Not sure of load rating. Have had too many service calls with back stabbed wires in outlets.

 

[Saturn_Europa]

I could actually get comfortable with that kind of Wago assuming it's cost effective. But I still like wirenuts.

They seem pretty expensive. I looked around and they are 25 - 50 cents a piece.

 

[DBoone]

I have only used the Ideal “push in” connectors before and was just thinking the other day that I would like to try some Wagos because I see them mentioned a lot here.

I filled out the request form to receive some free samples. I have never seen Wagos stocked anywhere here before. Looking forward to trying them.

 

[JFletcher]

They seem pretty expensive. I looked around and they are 25 - 50 cents a piece.

They are, however speed of installation makes them better than wire nuts. I'll be honest, for lighting circuits, especially now with LEDs, I am not too worried about backstab connections coming loose. Light fixtures often have a push in connector for connecting one light to another with Romex anyway.

With receptacles, I prefer to install pigtails around the side screws in the shop, and connect them to a Wago that is already been installed on the branch wiring during rough-in. Three simple push in connections, tuck the wires in the box, screw in the device. If you opt for this method, I find it is better to pre tail the ground wires with insulated wire... It is one more safeguard against ground or arc fault breakers tripping with novice installers.

That is one place where you will makeup time over wire nuts and putting loops in the branch circuit wiring to go around the side screws... It also allows you to check all of your branch circuit wiring before the sheetrock goes up, and you do not have to remove any temporary wire nut connections.

The other huge benefit to permanently making up hot neutral and ground connections in a box during rough in is that if it gets covered up, you're not totally hosed with everything downstream of it being dead.

You would need three three port connectors for a typical single gang receptacle, two if you just put a Buchanan crimp on the ground wires and leave one long. Opting for the 3 though will save you time on your knees or laying on the floor trimming out baseboard receptacles.

Bigger than a three gang switch box, you're going to need the 8-port push in Wago or Ideal wire connector... lever locks only go up to 5 ports.

A combination of backstabs, lever locks, push in connectors, Buchanan crimps, and wire nuts, all used in the most optimal places, will result in the fastest install.

Where are you finding the 221 series lever locks for $0.25 a piece? Is that like a 500 or 1000 piece contractor pack? Is that just the 2 port?

 

[Saturn_Europa]

They are, however speed of installation makes them better than wire nuts. I'll be honest, for lighting circuits, especially now with LEDs, I am not too worried about backstab connections coming loose. Light fixtures often have a push in connector for connecting one light to another with Romex anyway.

With receptacles, I prefer to install pigtails around the side screws in the shop, and connect them to a Wago that is already been installed on the branch wiring during rough-in. Three simple push in connections, tuck the wires in the box, screw in the device. If you opt for this method, I find it is better to pre tail the ground wires with insulated wire... It is one more safeguard against ground or arc fault breakers tripping with novice installers.

That is one place where you will makeup time over wire nuts and putting loops in the branch circuit wiring to go around the side screws... It also allows you to check all of your branch circuit wiring before the sheetrock goes up, and you do not have to remove any temporary wire nut connections.

The other huge benefit to permanently making up hot neutral and ground connections in a box during rough in is that if it gets covered up, you're not totally hosed with everything downstream of it being dead.

You would need three three port connectors for a typical single gang receptacle, two if you just put a Buchanan crimp on the ground wires and leave one long. Opting for the 3 though will save you time on your knees or laying on the floor trimming out baseboard receptacles.

Bigger than a three gang switch box, you're going to need the 8-port push in Wago or Ideal wire connector... lever locks only go up to 5 ports.

A combination of backstabs, lever locks, push in connectors, Buchanan crimps, and wire nuts, all used in the most optimal places, will result in the fastest install.

Where are you finding the 221 series lever locks for $0.25 a piece? Is that like a 500 or 1000 piece contractor pack? Is that just the 2 port?

Thank you for the advice. Most people charge for that type of information!

I misspoke. I was browsing Amazon, and the cheap ones were off brand. Definitely not worth even 25 cents.

 

[Dzboyce]

Checked my cost at Platt. The 3 port is 25 1/2 cents each in Quantities of 50

 

[Fulthrotl]

I have been using Ideal tan twisters almost exclusively since 2016. But these new Wago 221 look really neat. Does anyone have any experience with them?

https://www.wago.com/221/us/

i've been using the wago lever locks for about 7 years now.
the tan ones that you can't see thru.

i've never found a wago product that was anything but awesome.
i would not hesitate a second on these. but, the knockoffs? no way.

get the real deal, or use a wirenut.

 

[ritelec]

I could actually get comfortable with that kind of Wago assuming it's cost effective. But I still like wirenuts.

I use wire nuts...... right or wrong, even the wire connectors that come in high hats I cut off and wire nut.. ?

 

[Adamjamma]

i've been using the wago lever locks for about 7 years now.
the tan ones that you can't see thru.

i've never found a wago product that was anything but awesome.
i would not hesitate a second on these. but, the knockoffs? no way.

get the real deal, or use a wirenut.

Actually, in European tests by several different electricians on Youtube, the Off Brand lever versions have been working just fine... Both they and the OEM Wagos and the IDEAL versions of lever connectors all held the joint solid... even when all the plastic melted off. All circuits failed doe to wire burning through but the joint created by the connector was still solid.

Quite impressive, actually... failure rates were heavier for the non lever connectors and for the one brand of wire nut.. although most of the wirenuts held to the same standards as the Wagos... the wire failed not the conector, although the insulation was melted away.
In all the videos so far, the wire lost its insulation before any of the connectors lost their insulation.

 

[Coppersmith]

Actually, in European tests by several different electricians on Youtube ...

You can't beat a Youtube electrician.

 

[JFletcher]

You can't beat a Youtube electrician.

View attachment 21617

:lol::lol:

You're right, you can't beat a YouTube electrician... Because it is darn near impossible to find them and beat them.

I posted a thread perhaps earlier in the year, about searching YouTube in regards to just properly stripping wires. It took five or six attempts to find a video that was not fraught with code violations and/or downright unsafe installations.

 

[Adamjamma]

Half of the coursework here in UK seems to involve online and youtube videos concerning things like proper test procedures (GSH mainly) or code changes... so...

Even the local college has part of its electrical course on youtube... but the old stuff on bending pipes, making saddle bends, etc...

 

[BS110]

Cats meow
Been using them for 10 years


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[DBoone]

:lol::lol:

You're right, you can't beat a YouTube electrician... Because it is darn near impossible to find them and beat them.

I posted a thread perhaps earlier in the year, about searching YouTube in regards to just properly stripping wires. It took five or six attempts to find a video that was not fraught with code violations and/or downright unsafe installations.

Found any good YouTube electricians you like watching?