Threading 1-1/4" RMC

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jeff48356 said:
I just got an upcoming job where I will need to rewire an old house and install new service. I'm going to use a metal riser for overhead 100A service, and I will need more than 10 feet of pipe. For the second piece, how would I thread it so that it fits into the meter hub?
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spin the first piece into the hub.
spin the second piece onto the first piece. using a coupling makes this easier.
cut the second piece off.
deburr with file.
put weatherhead on pipe.
weatherheads can be purchased that don't require threading. buy one of those.

consider investing in a porta pony. with dies to 2". you will need it.
 
Fulthrotl said:
spin the first piece into the hub.
spin the second piece onto the first piece. using a coupling makes this easier.
cut the second piece off.
deburr with file.
put weatherhead on pipe.
weatherheads can be purchased that don't require threading. buy one of those.

consider investing in a porta pony. with dies to 2". you will need it.
Click to expand...

I think maybe he is supporting the service drop with the conduit and because of this needs the short piece on the bottom end.
 
junkhound said:
However, some questions like this make one wonder about a description of "I'm a licensed master electrician and electrical contractor". Many, maybe not every electrician, but every electrical or building contractor I know has a set of pipe dies up to 2"; however, very few residential contractors have stuff over 2". Most contractors will even have a motorized threading machine for up to 2".
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electrofelon said:
I have been a self employed electrician for 10 years and doing my own side jobs for 5 years before that. I do not have threading equipment. I have needed to thread remarkably few times.
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I am in the same situation as Electrofelon. I have threaded pipe many times while working for others but I do not own any threading equipment of my own nor do I have need of any. I use rigid for masts, but never needed more than 10 feet in length. I use rigid underground, but always use compression connectors and couplings where I have to cut a stick. If I were to need a pipe threaded, I would borrow equipment from another contractor or the apprenticeship hall.

I also don't own a large pipe bender. Factory bends work out fine 99% of the time. I have recently taken a couple of sticks of 2" EMT to the apprenticeship hall and used their bender for some offsets I needed. I'm more likely to buy a power bender before I buy threading equipment. Been in business 5 years.
 
Coppersmith said:
I am in the same situation as Electrofelon. I have threaded pipe many times while working for others but I do not own any threading equipment of my own nor do I have need of any. I use rigid for masts, but never needed more than 10 feet in length. I use rigid underground, but always use compression connectors and couplings where I have to cut a stick. If I were to need a pipe threaded, I would borrow equipment from another contractor or the apprenticeship hall.

I also don't own a large pipe bender. Factory bends work out fine 99% of the time. I have recently taken a couple of sticks of 2" EMT to the apprenticeship hall and used their bender for some offsets I needed. I'm more likely to buy a power bender before I buy threading equipment. Been in business 5 years.
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IIRC I have needed a small threader (1/2-1") twice, and one of those times was to thread a brass pipe for a shower curtain :rant: (long story). Both times I borrowed a hand threader from my former partner. The one time I needed to thread two inch was the time I mentioned in my previous post. I Actually cant remember how I resolved that, think I used two 12" nipples.

Watch, after saying all this and bragging how I haven't needed a threader in 15 years in the biz, Ill get a call next week for a job that needs a bunch of threading and Ill have to buy one finally :rant: ;)

Edit to add: Back when I did work for my former partner, before we were partners perhaps, we did some work at a food plant and had to thread and bend stainless rigid, that was pretty neat.
 
Coppersmith said:
That sounds horrible. I hate working with stainless.
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threading stainless conduit isn't difficult at all.
flood with tapmatic, not hi sulfer oil.
threads easily.

the reason it threads easily is you are turning at a very very
slow speed. if you drill holes at that same speed, using tapmatic,
and don't gall the material, SS cuts very easily.

the faster you go, the worse it gets. i was drilling 1/2" holes thru
304 SS, and you could see the flukes turning by individually.
was going thru 3/8" plate like butter. honest.

once you burn the metal, the show is over. it galls, and work
hardens, and carbide won't cut it.

bends nicely, as well. i spent a number of years in food packing
plants. everything is SS, ocal, or robroy.
 
Fulthrotl said:
threading stainless conduit isn't difficult at all.
flood with tapmatic, not hi sulfer oil.
threads easily.

the reason it threads easily is you are turning at a very very
slow speed. if you drill holes at that same speed, using tapmatic,
and don't gall the material, SS cuts very easily.

the faster you go, the worse it gets. i was drilling 1/2" holes thru
304 SS, and you could see the flukes turning by individually.
was going thru 3/8" plate like butter. honest.

once you burn the metal, the show is over. it galls, and work
hardens, and carbide won't cut it.

bends nicely, as well. i spent a number of years in food packing
plants. everything is SS, ocal, or robroy.
Click to expand...
+1

most people run drill too fast and get nowhere in a hurry when drilling stainless.

Applying much of what you said works pretty well with mild steel also, but mild steel you can get away with higher speed easier than stainless.

one needs to vary speed and pressure until you eventually find that sweet spot where extracted material is the highest, then remember about what speed that is and try to achieve it with every hole you drill. Start slow and increase speed instead of starting fast and decreasing speed to find that right spot.
 
Have a old Ridgid 535 machine, had a bad gear motor & replaced it & works great, makes one appreciate not having to use a Tri stand and a ratchet threader.
 
kwired said:
+1

most people run drill too fast and get nowhere in a hurry when drilling stainless.

Applying much of what you said works pretty well with mild steel also, but mild steel you can get away with higher speed easier than stainless.

one needs to vary speed and pressure until you eventually find that sweet spot where extracted material is the highest, then remember about what speed that is and try to achieve it with every hole you drill. Start slow and increase speed instead of starting fast and decreasing speed to find that right spot.
Click to expand...

I've had the same experience with stainless. I think part of the problem is the low thermal conductivity of stainless. So things get too hot if your drill speed is high and the heat can't be dissipated fast enough.
 
learn these first>

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then move on.....

~RJ~
 
I love running rigid. Thats not even sarcasm. :D

As a backup threader we have one of these dumb harbor freight ones.

https://www.harborfreight.com/plumb...rs/portable-electric-pipe-threader-62203.html

It goes up to 1 1/4.

I would not trade it for a Rigid 700 by any means, but it will get you by in a pinch or for occasional work. Less than 200 and comes with dies.

I randomly found a tri stand and a bunch of hand threading equipment at a yardsale a couple summers ago while on a vacation. Old pipefitter sold me everything for 50 bucks and threw in 2 hand benders. I was thrilled. My wife was less so to have it all in the trunk the rest of the way.:lol:
 
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