And again I will ask where in the wrench instructions or gear torque spec's does it say to shake?
I was taught to tighten, bang on the head (the bolt's, not mine) with a hammer, tighten again, and repeat a couple of more times.When installing split-bolts, I was taught. Tighten hit a few times and shake the connection then retighten.
I was taught to tighten, bang on the head (the bolt's, not mine) with a hammer, tighten again, and repeat a couple of more times.
I see this hasn't gotten into the copper vs. aluminum debate. I think we are all less concerned about copper. AL seems to be the tricky one. I know I have posted this before, and the standard answer seems to be using the torque wrench. (Even though all the 5+ EC's I've worked for, none of them had owned or used one on any of the jobs I was on). Still I agree with the earlier posts, best to find out from the listing agency as to what method they use. I use a lot of Milbank meters, wondering what they would recommend (other then a torque wrench). I know temp has a lot to do with how tight the connections are. After tightening lugs down when it's 60 + degrees, during the day, and come back the next day (after a 40 degree night) to find the terminations loose... (At least with AL.)
Evidently, we went to the same school. I have repaired connections where this was not done and it just makes an expensive heater.I was taught to tighten, bang on the head (the bolt's, not mine) with a hammer, tighten again, and repeat a couple of more times.
That's for a normal bolt, or a nut and bolt. (When there's a nut, you're supposed to turn the nut, not the bolt, from what I've read in an automotive engiuneering book.) Re-torquing can over-stretch the bolt, causing a failure.How do you check torque?
I thought 'once' torqued it could not be touched.
And re-torquing a mechanical wire connector can "over crush" the conductor.... Re-torquing can over-stretch the bolt, causing a failure. ...
Agreed. In fact, when I re-terminate a smaller conductor, I cut and re-strip it, rather than squishing it even flatter.And re-torquing a mechanical wire connector can "over crush" the conductor.
How do you check torque?
I thought 'once' torqued it could not be touched.
Agreed. In fact, when I re-terminate a smaller conductor, I cut and re-strip it, rather than squishing it even flatter.
That's for a normal bolt, or a nut and bolt. (When there's a nut, you're supposed to turn the nut, not the bolt, from what I've read in an automotive engiuneering book.) Re-torquing can over-stretch the bolt, causing a failure.
You know those huge mending plates that beams on overpasses are joined with? It's not the bolts' shear strength that holds the beam flanges together, it's the friction between the mending plates and the flanges.
I have caught so much fire over the years from old bosses because of doing just that. It is just a habit I have grown into - start the termination with a fresh end of wire. But whenever I am in a panel, I always torque my lugs.