Any ideas on what I could use in place of toggle bolts, Vanity fixture approx 20 lbs manuf ships and recommends using their black toggle bolts. Drill holes for toggles and vent pipe is directly behind one of the holes. I can try to shorten the bolt, but don't think I can get the bolt far enough in to let the toggle open up
toggle bolts
- Thread starter eds
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yankj
Senior Member
- Location
- Carrollton, Texas
How about drilling new holes in the vanity and moving mounting position?
ishium 80439
Senior Member
What about zip-its? I think the metal ones are rated for 30# each. (Although now that I reread your post it sounds like you already drilled the holes so these may not work.)
BryanMD
Senior Member
Why is this your problem?
Get the carprenter to set a piece of 3/4" plywood as a backer and then replace the drywall and the paint... and install the item. Call you back in 2 weeks to do the electrical portion.
Get the carprenter to set a piece of 3/4" plywood as a backer and then replace the drywall and the paint... and install the item. Call you back in 2 weeks to do the electrical portion.
walkerj
Senior Member
- Location
- Baton Rouge
eds, You could drill and tap the vent pipe
As a greenie maybe 2nd week on the job, I was instructed to screw biscuit(3 1/2" flat) boxes to the vent pipe for three vanity lights
Power Tech
Senior Member
- Location
- Lebec, California
put a piece of 18 gage steel (panel thickness) Behind the drywall and screw it into place with selfe tapping drywall screws. Then tap or use a tek screw.
Terry
Terry
Fulthrotl
~Autocorrect is My Worst Enema.~
- Occupation
- E
hilti toggle bolts. about a buck each at home dipsnit.
use 1/4" ones... you can snoodle them in place and they will stay without
a bolt in place... then you can use 3/4" or 1" bolts to hold the fixture without
bottoming out.
if it's a black iron riser, those make wonderful backing.... they make killer tek
screws that'll go thru 1/4" steel plate, and self tap......
hey... if it's just a vent riser, it's just air.......
hardworkingstiff
Senior Member
- Location
- Wilmington, NC
Nice thinking Terry. Thanks for that tip.
just to clarify, the toggle bolts of this fixture are black and the head of the toggle bolt is visible from the front of the fixture, so drilling new holes in the fixture would not be the best idea but one I did think about. There is a wood frame around the mirror and the fixture sits on this frame. The company shipped the fixture with 3/16 toggles and #6 wood screws I choose the toggles because they looked to be a little stronger. I talked to the trim carpenters and they are going to glue wood dowels in the holes and then I will use the wood screws supplied with the fixtures
stickboy1375
Senior Member
- Location
- Litchfield, CT
quogueelectric
Senior Member
- Location
- new york
Just drill a 7/8 hole in the vent pipe and pretend you didnt notice for the test. The toggle will open fine in a 2" PVC pipe. Big blob of silicone to pass the plumbers vent test.
bjp_ne_elec
Senior Member
- Location
- Southern NH
Sheetrock should not be the means of support for a fixture anyways...
What do they make zip-its for then?
stickboy1375
Senior Member
- Location
- Litchfield, CT
Got me, but just because someone makes something does not mean its right.
bjp_ne_elec
Senior Member
- Location
- Southern NH
So where does it say that sheetrock can't support a fixture? The OP planned on doing it with toggle bolts.
stickboy1375
Senior Member
- Location
- Litchfield, CT
I would think its up to the sheetrock manufacture. How do I know what sheetrock is able to support? If anything but paint?
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