Transformer

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benaround

Senior Member
Location
Arizona
Jason, Without seeing what you have to work with, or asking you a 100 questions, just

make sure it's strong and sturdy.

It could be as simple as installing some strut 90's on the block wall and droping some 3/8"

rod down from the "Z" joists.
 
JJWalecka

JJWalecka

Senior Member
Location
New England
benaround said:
Jason, Without seeing what you have to work with, or asking you a 100 questions, just

make sure it's strong and sturdy.

It could be as simple as installing some strut 90's on the block wall and droping some 3/8"

rod down from the "Z" joists.
Click to expand...

I agree without seeing what is involved.


I always used 3/8 hardware until I came to my employer. 1/2 was promoted at the last project. A bit of overkill in situations but I like 1/2 alot! I dislike lead anchors. Steel drop-ins are better in my opinion.

I would recommend installing the anchors on the solid part of the block wall and used anchors listed for the purpose. Use B-Line unistrut nineties on the block wall. 45?s for a stabilizer unistrut under the supporting unistrut. Attached that strut to the block wall with another 45.

Just my two cents since I have no idea what you?re up against. Good luck. Send a pic of it when you?re done.

JJ
 
Smart $

Smart $

Esteemed Member
Location
Ohio
JJWalecka said:
Check out the pic of the transformer mounted on the wall. Its a nice install.

JJ
Click to expand...

Yes it is. The cross member at the bottom is a bit overkill though. The bracket also appears to partially straddle the top of the concrete wall... perhaps even anchored to the sill plate. On a sheer wall, I'd recommend bolting the top of the bracket completely through the wall with strut washers (or larger) on the other side.
 
acrwc10

acrwc10

Master Code Professional
Location
CA
Occupation
Building inspector
I mounted one on a solid filled CMU wall awhile ago with brackets from the thransformer co. they just bolt right into the wall, big triangles.
 
infinity

infinity

Moderator
Staff member
Location
New Jersey
Occupation
Journeyman Electrician
Looking at the upper left photo, if you're worried about the wall supporting all of the weight, you could run 2-10' lengths up from the floor. Then the wall would only carry the tip weight with most of the load being transfered to the floor.

App_Show_018.jpg
 
Smart $

Smart $

Esteemed Member
Location
Ohio
Jim W in Tampa said:
300 lbs is not much. Can you trust the blocks ? The strut will do fine.
Click to expand...

True. 300 lbs. isn't much... but I don't know the conditions where it is to be mounted... and I've seen too many concrete block walls get stress cracks. Get one in the mounted area along with some heavy traffic continuously vibrating the wall and poof!

I say better safe than sorry.
 
Fulthrotl

Fulthrotl

~Autocorrect is My Worst Enema.~
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HB, CA (19 Hrs. 22 Min. from Winged Horses)
Occupation
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infinity said:
Looking at the upper left photo, if you're worried about the wall supporting all of the weight, you could run 2-10' lengths up from the floor. Then the wall would only carry the tip weight with most of the load being transfered to the floor.
QUOTE]

that was what i'd suggest, sight unseen.... all the way to the floor...
at the top, i'd pop two holes thru the wall, and use 1/2" allthread
thru the wall, and put another piece of strut between the allthread,
horizontally, on the back side of the wall, for backing... it isn't going
anywhere.... use a couple of anchors at the bottom of the wall, to
keep anything from moving out of plumb.

randy
Click to expand...
 
jrannis

jrannis

Senior Member
Location
Fort Lauderdale/ Miami
I would make the verticle pieces as long as I could, at least 6' and use some nice 3/8"x 2-1/4" or so sleeve anchors to fasten to the block. The use of the factory open and closed 45s with minimum 3/8" hardware are the only way to go
 
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