troubleshooting ballasts and continuity

[Jonmad99]

i was troubleshooting a ballast today and i was reading continuity between the hot and neutral. i wasn't sure so i checked some brand new electronic ballasts and i got nothing between the hot and neutral. i then started to research online and saw that i should get continuity between the hot and neutral. Why would i read a short on one and not the other. the original ballast i read was a sign ballast (France non-flashing outdoor type 2) not sure if it's magnetic or not. any info would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks,
Jonathan

 

[iwire]

A magnetic ballast should show continuity, an electronic one I have no idea.

That said I don't troubleshoot ballasts, if they have power, the wiring is intact and looks correct and good lamps don't light the ballast gets replaced. Very, very rarely will that not fix the problem.

 

[jeremysterling]

As iwire stated, if sockets and wiring look OK and lamps are good, pretty much leaves only the ballast to replace.

I have read luminaire manufacturer's troubleshooting guides that state that the way to troubleshoot a ballast is to replace it. That is from the people who make these things.

I don't know about the continuity thing, I would assume all ballasts are continuous. I will sometimes hold my tic-tracer (non-contact voltage tester) near the flourescent tombstone or HID socket, but its still a guess until a known good lamp is installed.

If replacing the ballast makes the light work, then you have established the old one was bad.

I have only changed three neon ballast in my career and all three times the neon lit with the new ballast.

 

[GoldDigger]

As iwire stated, if sockets and wiring look OK and lamps are good, pretty much leaves only the ballast to replace.

I have read luminaire manufacturer's troubleshooting guides that state that the way to troubleshoot a ballast is to replace it. That is from the people who make these things.

I don't know about the continuity thing, I would assume all ballasts are continuous. I will sometimes hold my tic-tracer (non-contact voltage tester) near the flourescent tombstone or HID socket, but its still a guess until a known good lamp is installed.

If replacing the ballast makes the light work, then you have established the old one was bad.

I have only changed three neon ballast in my career and all three times the neon lit with the new ballast.

For neon, it is more of a current limited step-up transformer than a simple ballast. I also have not seen any electronic neon sign transformers yet. Has anyone?

 

[JDBrown]

For neon, it is more of a current limited step-up transformer than a simple ballast. I also have not seen any electronic neon sign transformers yet. Has anyone?

Not in person. But just the other day I saw one spec'd by another engineer. It's a Ventex Generation III electronic neon power supply. I have no idea how good they are, though; this is my first time coming across one.

 

[ActionDave]

That said I don't troubleshoot ballasts, if they have power, the wiring is intact and looks correct and good lamps don't light the ballast gets replaced. Very, very rarely will that not fix the problem.

I don't troubleshoot them either. Some cases I will replace the ballast even if only a bulb is needed. Too many times you drive out, change the lamp and a week later the ballast fails.

If it is one of those cheesy, plastic Lithonia shoe box fixtures I won't bother changing anything, just install a new fixture.

 

[kwired]

i was troubleshooting a ballast today and i was reading continuity between the hot and neutral. i wasn't sure so i checked some brand new electronic ballasts and i got nothing between the hot and neutral. i then started to research online and saw that i should get continuity between the hot and neutral. Why would i read a short on one and not the other. the original ballast i read was a sign ballast (France non-flashing outdoor type 2) not sure if it's magnetic or not. any info would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks,
Jonathan

A magnetic ballast will have continuity between the input leads. The input leads connect to a transformer coil, if you have no continuity the coil is open and the device will not operate with an open circuit condition.

Electronic ballasts may be an entirely different ballgame, and possibly could be different between different types or brands even.

If the unit is pretty heavy for its size - it is a magnetic ballast, electronic ballasts have a lot less copper and steel in them.

 

[ActionDave]

If the unit is pretty heavy for its size - it is a magnetic ballast, electronic ballasts have a lot less copper and steel in them.

Heavy is a relative condition.

A good way to test is hold the ballast at shoulder level and drop it on your foot. If it makes you say "Ouch!" it is electronic. If makes you say "OUCH!!" and a whole lot of other things and you end up with a broken foot it is a safe bet the ballast is magnetic.

 

[kwired]

Heavy is a relative condition.

I am heavier than most of my relatives