troubleshooting training

[Little Bill]

ETA: I am about to start such a job. A building was roughed but the home runs aren't marked, or so that you can read it anyway. None of the boxes are made up, nor none of the sheathing has been taken off the NM.
I don't even know which are switches or receptacles in some places because of where they are placed.:happyno:

That is why this would be good training for you.

I'm afraid I've already had this training through "the school of hard knocks"!

Only problem I see with the job I have coming up is there is three levels to check and the panel is on the first level!

Also, highs in the single digits isn't going to be fun either!:huh:

 

[jxofaltrds]

I'm looking for troubleshooting books, DVD's and or reference materials. Feedback and recommendations are appreciated

Back to topic. I do not believe that a book, DVD or reference material make you good at troubleshooting.

Understanding how things are wired does.

Nothing beats real life!

PS the code (NEC) is just the rules.

 

[Little Bill]

Simple one:

In an outlet you have two NM 12WG. The outlet will have a GFCI installed. One NM is connected in the panel.

With the power off can you tell me which is the line and which is the load? Only testing at the outlet?:huh:

Since the OP asked about troubleshooting methods etc., I'll take a stab at this thinking it might aid in troubleshooting learning/training.

Assuming you meant checking only at the outlet stated and not, perhaps, the outlet that will contain the load receptacle. I would check for continuity between the grounded/neutral and the egc. If they are properly terminated in the main panel and it is bonded properly, you should see continuity or a low resistance reading. That would be your line conductors.

If the panel in question is a sub panel, and it is properly wired, you should not see the continuity/low resistance between the neutral and EGC.
You would have to go past the outlet and test for continuity from another source for either the EGC or neutral from there to the original outlet.

 

[mjf]

My reply was based on a few things.
1). The OP is a master electrician and he was told to have a good electrician to wire something without terminating. I would hope the OP could do that.

2). Didn't understand why a wiggy and not just any meter with continuity test. You could do it with any Ohm meter.

3). What possible difference would it make whether a 3 or 4-way switch pointed up or down?

ETA: I am about to start such a job. A building was roughed but the home runs aren't marked, or so that you can read it anyway. None of the boxes are made up, nor none of the sheathing has been taken off the NM.
I don't even know which are switches or receptacles in some places because of where they are placed.:happyno:

I'm a 1 man shop, but if I was up against the above job, I would absolutely bring in a helper (and a set of walkie-talkies). Probably take 1/4 of the time than if I tried to do it solo.

 

[jxofaltrds]

Since the OP asked about troubleshooting methods etc., I'll take a stab at this thinking it might aid in troubleshooting learning/training.

Assuming you meant checking only at the outlet stated and not, perhaps, the outlet that will contain the load receptacle. I would check for continuity between the grounded/neutral and the egc. If they are properly terminated in the main panel and it is bonded properly, you should see continuity or a low resistance reading. That would be your line conductors.

If the panel in question is a sub panel, and it is properly wired, you should not see the continuity/low resistance between the neutral and EGC.
You would have to go past the outlet and test for continuity from another source for either the EGC or neutral from there to the original outlet.

Your first answer is correct for the main and all panels that follow.

 

[Little Bill]

[/COLOR]I'm a 1 man shop, but if I was up against the above job, I would absolutely bring in a helper (and a set of walkie-talkies). Probably take 1/4 of the time than if I tried to do it solo.

If I had bid this job I would bring in a helper. But with all the mess I see with this job I told the customer that I would only do this T&M. I have a few things that I can use to cut down on the traveling up/down some.

I always find it funny how these type people try to cut corners and save money and it ends up costing them more for someone to straighten up the mess. It appears he had the builder rough it in as it was being built and he intended on finishing/trimming it out himself. All this without asking the builder his wiring methods. He probably wouldn't have understood anyway!:happyno: