Tyco/TE Connectivity In-Wall/Boxless NM splices

Status
Not open for further replies.
J

JFletcher

Senior Member
Location
Williamsburg, VA
Here are the products I'm looking at:

http://www.homedepot.com/p/Tyco-Electronics-Romex-Splice-Kit-3-Wire-1-Clam-CPGI-208169-2/202204327

https://www.grainger.com/product/6H...6517!&ef_id=Vvth8gAABIPsqzJ5:20160504001418:s

According to the Tyco info, these splices can be used w/o a J-box, at least on the 05 and 08 code cycles; section 334.40(B). I found this article regarding their use; they appear legal under the 2014 NEC as well.

Does anyone have experience with those brands/connectors? Is there a preferred/"best" brand? I would prefer ofc to repull the cable or use a j-box, but that is not an option here. Since they are buried/inaccessible, any tips/tricks to make a perfect connection would be appreciated.
 
The HD listing says approved fit rework only and yet the top review says it is great when you have a 20' and a 30' piece of
NM and need 50', which sounds a lot like new work.

P.S: Is it good only for Romex(TM) or will any NM do? :angel:
 
I've tried them twice. I still keep one on my truck but now look for any other possible way. I'd rather crawl into a tight crawlspace and deal with poisonous snakes, spiders, mud, and dead rodents as I pull staples and reroute cable than use one of those Tyco splice kits again.

If you decided to go that route, I recommend you take a large magnifying glass to read the instructions and large bottle of patience for use while assembling the demon.

Don't get me wrong, I thought this invention was the best ever before I used it, and it certainly can save a lot of trouble, but I found it to be a lot more trouble and time than I imagined. Good luck.
 
bei said:
I've tried them twice. I still keep one on my truck but now look for any other possible way. I'd rather crawl into a tight crawlspace and deal with poisonous snakes, spiders, mud, and dead rodents as I pull staples and reroute cable than use one of those Tyco splice kits again.

If you decided to go that route, I recommend you take a large magnifying glass to read the instructions and large bottle of patience for use while assembling the demon.

Don't get me wrong, I thought this invention was the best ever before I used it, and it certainly can save a lot of trouble, but I found it to be a lot more trouble and time than I imagined. Good luck.
Click to expand...

Haha. Your point is clear tho as I dont think anyone likes a crawlspace with such conditions.

So, worse than making up an 8p8c (RJ-45) plug in the field? Those are bad the first few times you do them. or demon like the garbage IDC connectors that come with DIY LV landscaping lighting?

I suppose the best thing is to get a few and practice with some scrap NM to see if they are a huge pita, fragile, touchy, w/e before installing in the field, and realizing that what looks good on paper/screen is unworkable in practice... like those clasp over UC LED light strip leads/connectors, which if I had to use again, I'd charge double for the install.

If these connectors are such garbage, I wonder why Wago or someone doesnt make a much better version of it. I can envision something that would be one piece and easy to install. Maybe I should get a patent on it...
 
Making an RJ-45 in the field is easier. Still, I like your idea of trying out the Tyco in the shop. Let me know how it goes; my last try was about 3-4 years ago and Tyco may have improved the product. I just remembered that I was so frustrated that I called the phone number on the package to suggest they make the instructions larger and more explicit. The CSR took a look and agreed that the directions could be improved.
 
GoldDigger said:
P.S: Is it good only for Romex(TM) or will any NM do? :angel:
Click to expand...

No, pretty sure it'll only work w/ romex- the only brand of nm seen at many HDs, one stop shopping.:happyyes:

But imo if you need a junction, use a nice shiny jb with the appropriate cable connectors and good splices you did yourself with wire nuts, not this. Nothing is ever too inaccessible to deem this niche product absolutely necessary- get creative if you have to (within code).:)
 
Last edited:
why not use a set screw butt splice and heat shrink? I dont see why that wouldn't be compliant with 334.40(B). It doesnt say that the "device" has to be listed or approved for the purpose, and it meets all the requirements.
 
There's literally countless millions of them in use in the manufactured/modular home market. I'm hard pressed to come up with a reason why they shouldn't be used.
 
iwire said:
As long as it is code compliant I would not hesitate to use them.
Click to expand...

And I would not not hesitate to tell someone that a code compliant install is okay, but that does not mean IMO they are not still POS.:)

To add, IIRC they are only legal for splices that are somehow still accessible in the future. Too lazy to search right now.
 
jumper said:
And I would not not hesitate to tell someone that a code compliant install is okay, but that does not mean IMO they are not still POS.:)
Click to expand...

Other than 'ya don't like em' do you have any evidence of there POSness? :p

To add, IIRC they are only legal for splices that are somehow still accessible in the future. Too lazy to search right now.
Click to expand...

I think that is correct and me too. :cool:
 
iwire said:
Other than 'ya don't like em' do you have any evidence of there POSness? :p
Click to expand...

Since when does a cranky old fart like me need evidence to back up an opinion?:)

Actually, had to replace some in trailer/manufactured homes in VA once. While the burned up connections certainly could have been installation errors I was just not impressed with the gizmos. I am old fashioned, I want a box and wire nuts. Too old to change.
 
jumper said:
Actually, had to replace some in trailer/manufactured homes in VA once. While the burned up connections certainly could have been installation errors I was just not impressed with the gizmos. I am old fashioned, I want a box and wire nuts.
Click to expand...

And here it is with the variables:

Of course,......... same thing could have happened with poorly done splices in jb- but any fire would have been contained inside jb and problem w/ that is if someone knew what they were doing there wouldn't have been a fire in the first place -and those who make crap nut joints most likely wouldn't have put the cover on box anyway to help contain said fire........:p

I don't have any proof these splice kits are any more dangerous, I simply don't care for them- we know old school works- we can do that and know its good until the structure falls down around it, but will these kits do the same? Especially loaded up regularly for decades maybe?

But I concede whatever is listed, legal and spec'd out and put in front of us will eventually catch on and be used if it saves time, is cheaper and reasonably safe.:)
 
Last edited:
iwire said:
Do cheap plastic jbs really contain a fire?

Doubtful.
Click to expand...

Depends- the best that can be hoped for in a lot of cases is that you get a line to egc/neutral when enough insulation burns off of a bad enough splice sometimes so the breaker will trip before 2 hr rated pvc becomes a smoldering blob.

We could and do use metal- but you guys know how it is with new residential: economics dictates everything- it's why nm over mc or pipe, ge/siemens vs sq d, res grade vs. spec and plastic is in because it's cheap, a little less labor intensive and will last thru the warranty period.:)
 
Last edited:
user 100 said:
Depends- the best that can be hoped for in a lot of cases is that you get a line to egc/neutral when enough insulation burns off of a bad enough splice sometimes so the breaker will trip before 2 hr rated pvc becomes a smoldering blob.

We could and do use metal- but you guys know how it is with new residential: economics dictates everything- it's why nm over mc or pipe, ge/siemens vs sq d, res grade vs. spec and plastic is in because it's cheap, a little less labor intensive and will last thru the warranty period.:)
Click to expand...
My thoughts are if anything in a NM box with proper lead lengths in the box you at least have a "glowing connection" that is isolated enough from surrounding combustible material that it may burn itself open before it can ignite any combustible material outside the box.

Those plastic boxes are not fire proof but do have some fire resistance.

Suitability of the product that is topic of this discussion may depend on what testing results were when introducing similar failures. Connections are a possible failure but how does the product contain such a failure is the main safety concern.
 
Status
Not open for further replies.
Top