Under cabinet lighting

olly

Senior Member
Location
Berthoud, Colorado
Occupation
Master Electrician
Do you guys have a good product you like to use for this. I like the, cut to length LED with the sticky back. Looking for suggestions. Have you had good luck with any products out there? I have a switched outlet in the cabinets.
 

sw_ross

Senior Member
Location
NoDak
I’ve been using the tape light also.
I usually mount aluminum track under cabinet and stick the track to that. I’m always worried that if I stick it directly to wood it might come off eventually.
I normally try to put the driver someplace where it’s out of the way but still serviceable like in the sink base or crawl space or utility room if not too far away.

I feel the tape lite gives more even lighting than a U/C fixture. You can customize it to your needs. The components are relatively inexpensive but my experience is the labor is more than mounting a fixture.
 

James L

Senior Member
Location
Kansas Cty, Mo, USA
Occupation
Electrician
I prefab my l.e.d. strip into aluminum channel with 4" leads, stick it to the underside of the cabinets with outdoor rated 2-sided tape, then use a small connection block to connect to the speaker wire I have stubbed out.

Really quick, imo
 

Attachments

480sparky

Senior Member
Location
Iowegia
I use the standard sticky-back LED products from superbrightleds.com.

I gave up on the factory connections and went to soldering the cable directly to the tape. It's a pain, but it won't fail.

IMG_20200309_123614_resized.jpg

IMG_20200309_123603_resized.jpg

IMG_20200309_123551_resized.jpg

IMG_20200309_123523_resized.jpg
 

sw_ross

Senior Member
Location
NoDak
I prefab my l.e.d. strip into aluminum channel with 4" leads, stick it to the underside of the cabinets with outdoor rated 2-sided tape, then use a small connection block to connect to the speaker wire I have stubbed out.

Really quick, imo
I like that concept of prefab’ing the sections. I might try that on the kitchen I’ll be trimming out soon.
 

olly

Senior Member
Location
Berthoud, Colorado
Occupation
Master Electrician
I prefab my l.e.d. strip into aluminum channel with 4" leads, stick it to the underside of the cabinets with outdoor rated 2-sided tape, then use a small connection block to connect to the speaker wire I have stubbed out.

Really quick, imo
I really like your idea! Could you expand on what type of lighting you buy. That may help me make sense of the installation. I am not following how the speaker wire leads come into play and what type of channel you use?
 

James L

Senior Member
Location
Kansas Cty, Mo, USA
Occupation
Electrician
Here's the channel...

I use different brands of l.e.d. strip. Depends on what's available at the time. Here's one with a driver...

I have 2 ways to switch the driver. Either a wall dimmer controlling a receptacle under the kitchen sink, or a hot plug under the sink and then use a Lutron Caseta plug-in lamp dimmer with Pico remote...

I run in-wall speaker cable from the driver location to each strip location and stub it out the wall. Hopefully the drywaller and cabinet installer are kind and knowledgeable enough to get the wires where you need them. Here's some cable. Usually 18 gauge is enough...

Here's the screw terminal block I use. Just cut 2 pieces off together and screw it to the bottom of the cabinet with a #6x3/4" sheet metal screw...


Just as an fyi, I solder small pieces of wire onto the strip after I cut it to length, then connect to the wire stubbed out from the wall
 

olly

Senior Member
Location
Berthoud, Colorado
Occupation
Master Electrician
Here's the channel...

I use different brands of l.e.d. strip. Depends on what's available at the time. Here's one with a driver...

I have 2 ways to switch the driver. Either a wall dimmer controlling a receptacle under the kitchen sink, or a hot plug under the sink and then use a Lutron Caseta plug-in lamp dimmer with Pico remote...

I run in-wall speaker cable from the driver location to each strip location and stub it out the wall. Hopefully the drywaller and cabinet installer are kind and knowledgeable enough to get the wires where you need them. Here's some cable. Usually 18 gauge is enough...

Here's the screw terminal block I use. Just cut 2 pieces off together and screw it to the bottom of the cabinet with a #6x3/4" sheet metal screw...


Just as an fyi, I solder small pieces of wire onto the strip after I cut it to length, then connect to the wire stubbed out from the wall
James I really appreciate your help! Im new to this type of light. My customer wants the following light:


Is it possible to buy extra strip lighting and just use the one driver? I need it above and below the counter. Total length will only be about 18'? I am not sure if this brand sells the led strip separately, but in general can you do this with other brands? I would splice the 18g from top and bottom light together where it ties into the driver. Is this a common practice?
 

James L

Senior Member
Location
Kansas Cty, Mo, USA
Occupation
Electrician
James I really appreciate your help! Im new to this type of light. My customer wants the following light:


Is it possible to buy extra strip lighting and just use the one driver? I need it above and below the counter. Total length will only be about 18'? I am not sure if this brand sells the led strip separately, but in general can you do this with other brands? I would splice the 18g from top and bottom light together where it ties into the driver. Is this a common practice?
Hi Olly. No problem at all.

On the link you sent for the product page, you can click "view more details" where I drew an orange arrow pointing to the link. It shows all the specs.

There are 3 components:
1) The strip says it's 22 watts

2) The controller is rated for 3 amps

3) The driver is 24 volts output, and supplies 36 watts. That's 1.5 amps

The short answer is that the driver can power about 25 feet, and the controller could handle twice that.

One word of caution, I think. I don't know if you saw the rated Lumen output of the strip, but I don't think it's going to be anywhere near that much.

The strip says it's total 22 watts, and shows lumen output of 2460 for a whole strip. That's 112 lumens per watt. I've never in my life heard of a 3528 l.e.d. putting out that kind of brightness.

I'm not saying your customer will be disappointed, but it's not going to blind anyone.

I also saw on the bottom of the page a contact number for the seller. Not sure if you saw

1-866-590-3533

I think you should call them to see if they sell the strip by itself so you can get more without additional driver and controller. I've heard good things about them.

Or maybe buy the whole second kit, cut what you need and save the rest for another project

As for joining top and bottom strips together, I would look into some extension cables. Run one cable from your driver/controller location to each strip location, and put a Y adapter. Make it all plug-n-play if possible.

Your strip cables will not plug into the driver, they will plug into the controller

I would imagine it takes a 4 conductor cable, just because there are three colors to choose from. But when you call them you should ask about those extension cables. Just explain to them what you're trying to do and they will steer you to the right accessories.
 

Attachments

blueheels2

Senior Member
Location
Raleigh, NC
Occupation
Electrical contractor
Can you link drivers together? I have a couple of jobs I am looking at where the customer wants these added but each section of cabinets has a receptacle above it and there is no way to get wires between different sections of cabinets. How do you link them so they are all controlled by one switch or remote?
 

James L

Senior Member
Location
Kansas Cty, Mo, USA
Occupation
Electrician
Can you link drivers together? I have a couple of jobs I am looking at where the customer wants these added but each section of cabinets has a receptacle above it and there is no way to get wires between different sections of cabinets. How do you link them so they are all controlled by one switch or remote?
There's a way...

Lutron Caseta plug-in lamp dimmer plugged into each receptacle. Dimmable driver plugged into each lamp dimmer, control them all with one (or more) Pico remote control with mounting bracket, which can mount to a switch box or surface mount


 

nickelec

Senior Member
Location
US
Here's the channel...

I use different brands of l.e.d. strip. Depends on what's available at the time. Here's one with a driver...

I have 2 ways to switch the driver. Either a wall dimmer controlling a receptacle under the kitchen sink, or a hot plug under the sink and then use a Lutron Caseta plug-in lamp dimmer with Pico remote...

I run in-wall speaker cable from the driver location to each strip location and stub it out the wall. Hopefully the drywaller and cabinet installer are kind and knowledgeable enough to get the wires where you need them. Here's some cable. Usually 18 gauge is enough...

Here's the screw terminal block I use. Just cut 2 pieces off together and screw it to the bottom of the cabinet with a #6x3/4" sheet metal screw...


Just as an fyi, I solder small pieces of wire onto the strip after I cut it to length, then connect to the wire stubbed out from the wall
I do the same as you, most inspectors don't pick up on the violation of using a dimmer on a receptacle

Sent from my SM-G986U using Tapatalk
 

James L

Senior Member
Location
Kansas Cty, Mo, USA
Occupation
Electrician
I do the same as you, most inspectors don't pick up on the violation of using a dimmer on a receptacle

Sent from my SM-G986U using Tapatalk
Yeah. I think even if they knew, they would probably be able to see the intent behind the code.

With the receptacle inside the kitchen sink cabinet, it's not quite a table lamp scenario. Not a real likelihood somebody will plug a vacuum cleaner into it.

But it makes me curious now. Manufacturers of dimmable LED drivers make them with a standard 2-prong cord that's factory installed. Wonder if that satisfies a listing requirement if the dimmer is listed as compatible? Armacost is one brand with such cord and dimmer compatibility list
 

nickelec

Senior Member
Location
US
I tend to agree with you and do it myself all the time. but I can har the inspector now Someone in the future could potentially use that outlet for garbage disposal

Sent from my SM-G986U using Tapatalk
 

blueheels2

Senior Member
Location
Raleigh, NC
Occupation
Electrical contractor
Did you do the job where you needed drivers powered at different locations? Was that this job in your pics?
Yes this was the job. The 3 sections of cabinets had switched receptacles on top of the cabinets. 2 switches one for upper and lower so I installed 6 drivers total plugged into the receptacles.
 
Top