US Boxes/lids/receptacle combinations

[AdrianWint]

Guys,

I'm trying to put together a shopping list to build a US power network here in our UK factory.

(I've got the 60Hz supply sorted - I'm using a 30kVA static frequency converter driving into a 400 - 208/120V custom transformer).

Where I'm struggling is putting together part numbers for the Receptacles/boxes/lids.

I've discovered that I can buy from Grainger & they'll ship to the UK with no problems, but, obviously I need to understand what I'm ordering & how these combine together - that comes with experience that I don't have!

All of the receptacles will be surface mounted & fed by conduit (ie. Not sunk into a drywall or masonry wall. I know the US uses imperial size conduit & we use metric but I've got that covered)

I think I've decided that the cover I want to use - RACO #907C. Inside I'll use a hubble 20A 125/250V combination outlet HBL5492I. (I want to get 120V & 208V on the same outlet plate)

Where I'm stuck is finding the correct box - it needs to have screws in each corner to match the #907C cover..... but all the ones I can find only have 2 in opposite corners.

Can anybody point me in the direction of a RACO part number or where I'm going wrong?

Thanks.

Adrian

 

[Sierrasparky]

the box you use with those raised metal 907 type covers are just a standard 4s box as pictured here. they cpme standard and deep, 1/2" and 2/4 in conduit ko's.
https://www.platt.com/platt-electri...oxes/Hubbell-Raco/232/product.aspx?zpid=52181

Also why the need for the 125v/250v combo receptacle?
Very few uses for that. And I bet they are expensive. Then you will need to place handle ties on the breakers.
A standard Duplex 120v receptacle is cheap and you can get various service grades.
then for the 240v you can get the single or the duplex.

The raised covers can be had in various configurations.

 

[mgookin]

Guys,

I'm trying to put together a shopping list to build a US power network here in our UK factory.

(I've got the 60Hz supply sorted - I'm using a 30kVA static frequency converter driving into a 400 - 208/120V custom transformer).

Where I'm struggling is putting together part numbers for the Receptacles/boxes/lids.

I've discovered that I can buy from Grainger & they'll ship to the UK with no problems, but, obviously I need to understand what I'm ordering & how these combine together - that comes with experience that I don't have!

All of the receptacles will be surface mounted & fed by conduit (ie. Not sunk into a drywall or masonry wall. I know the US uses imperial size conduit & we use metric but I've got that covered)

I think I've decided that the cover I want to use - RACO #907C. Inside I'll use a hubble 20A 125/250V combination outlet HBL5492I. (I want to get 120V & 208V on the same outlet plate)

Where I'm stuck is finding the correct box - it needs to have screws in each corner to match the #907C cover..... but all the ones I can find only have 2 in opposite corners.

Can anybody point me in the direction of a RACO part number or where I'm going wrong?

Thanks.

Adrian

Our covers screw into the receptacle yoke, not the box. Does that help?

 

[Sierrasparky]

Our covers screw into the receptacle yoke, not the box. Does that help?

Really!

Then how do you install surface mounted boxes and covers like the OP has suggested. The recep is attached to the cover, then the cover is attached to a box like a 4s.

 

[mgookin]

Really!

Then how do you install surface mounted boxes and covers like the OP has suggested. The recep is attached to the cover, then the cover is attached to a box like a 4s.

My apology there SS.

I hadn't pulled the datasheet on what he has. Now I see.

Didn't intend to offend anyone of course. Sounded from the OP that he had a regular 2 gang box & cover design, which now I see he does not have.

 

[AdrianWint]

the box you use with those raised metal 907 type covers are just a standard 4s box as pictured here. they cpme standard and deep, 1/2" and 2/4 in conduit ko's.
https://www.platt.com/platt-electri...oxes/Hubbell-Raco/232/product.aspx?zpid=52181

Also why the need for the 125v/250v combo receptacle?
Very few uses for that. And I bet they are expensive. Then you will need to place handle ties on the breakers.
A standard Duplex 120v receptacle is cheap and you can get various service grades.
then for the 240v you can get the single or the duplex.

The raised covers can be had in various configurations.

Thanks for the link .... I'd seen that box but thought it was the wrong one because it only has fixings for the cover on two diagonally opposite corners ...... but the lid has holes for four fixings? Do you guys just leave the other two out?

Yeah the combo outlets are expensive. We make educational teaching equipment which we export to the US (amongst other Countries). Some if these items will run of 120V others need 208/240V. I'm trying to make both voltages easily available at all the outlets in the testing cells but I guess I could put a twin 120V outlet next to a twin 240V outlet and get the same result at less cost?

In order to wire these I've got to make the system safe & 'look' like a US system but still be compliant with our Brit wiring regs. To do this I'll have to use double pole breakers for all the feeds, and I'll have to run the 120V circuits & 240V circuits completely separate (the MWBC isn't recognised by BS7671)

Thanks for your help.

 

[fmtjfw]

Thanks for the link .... I'd seen that box but thought it was the wrong one because it only has fixings for the cover on two diagonally opposite corners ...... but the lid has holes for four fixings? Do you guys just leave the other two out?

Yeah the combo outlets are expensive. We make educational teaching equipment which we export to the US (amongst other Countries). Some if these items will run of 120V others need 208/240V. I'm trying to make both voltages easily available at all the outlets in the testing cells but I guess I could put a twin 120V outlet next to a twin 240V outlet and get the same result at less cost?

In order to wire these I've got to make the system safe & 'look' like a US system but still be compliant with our Brit wiring regs. To do this I'll have to use double pole breakers for all the feeds, and I'll have to run the 120V circuits & 240V circuits completely separate (the MWBC isn't recognised by BS7671)

Thanks for your help.

If this is for a US educational setting you may want to consider GFCI breakers feeding the receptacles. They would trip if a student touches a hot wire.

 

[ActionDave]

Thanks for the link .... I'd seen that box but thought it was the wrong one because it only has fixings for the cover on two diagonally opposite corners ...... but the lid has holes for four fixings? Do you guys just leave the other two out?....

Yes, 99.9999% of the time.

 

[fmtjfw]

Yes, 99.9999% of the time.

The knockouts in 4x4 boxes are not necessarily symmetrical, nor the same on the "top and bottom" versus the "left and right" so the conduit may dictate the orientation of the 4x4. The covers that hold devices have 4 holes so that the orientation of the devices can be determined independent of the orientation of the boxes.

I have never seen a 4x4 box with 4 mounting holes on a single opening, always two holes.

[It may be cheaper to import parts from a Canadian supplier. Graninger's has always been the higher cost quicker delivery brand in the US.]

 

[Sierrasparky]

Yes, 99.9999% of the time.

Really,

Which of the duplex holes do you leave empty?
The duplex is no longer to be supported only by the center plate screw.

 

[Smart $]

Thanks for the link .... I'd seen that box but thought it was the wrong one because it only has fixings for the cover on two diagonally opposite corners ...... but the lid has holes for four fixings? Do you guys just leave the other two out?...

Yes. The reason for four holes is to provide a cover orientation option... so you don't have to consider box orientation when installing, which you would have to do if the cover only had two holes.

Actually I have seen covers with two open holes and two with just-in-case knockouts...

 

[ActionDave]

Really,

Which of the duplex holes do you leave empty?
The duplex is no longer to be supported only by the center plate screw.

I was talking about the screws on a 1900 box that attach the indy cover to the box, not the screws that hold the device to the cover. However the code only require two screws for the device so you could leave the center screw out of a duplex recpt.

 

[Smart $]

FWIW, if you really desire the additional integrity of four screws in the cover, you can use 4-11/16" square boxes and covers. The boxes only come with two screws usually, but have two additional screw tabs. You just have to provide the other two screws.