Verizon FiOS box

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shortcircuit1

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So if you have a verizon FiOS box in the unit and if you want to have audio/video signals transferred to where your TV is located do you need to run coax cable or you could run Cat5 or Cat5e or Cat 6 cables? In the jobs that i have designed i have always ran Coax cables from the S-1/ONT box to the TV outlet for cable and Cat 5 cable for internet. But if you only have an option of only FiOS box does a Cat 5 or Cat5e or Cat 6 cable does the job or you still run coax cable?
 
TV is still coax, typically RG6 which plugs into the cable box, cable box to TV is usually HDMI. If there is more than one TV outlet than after the ONT is a multi-port splitter. If you want your TV connected to the internet via a wired Ethernet connection then you would also need a Cat 5 or higher level cable.
 
TV is still coax, typically RG6 which plugs into the cable box, cable box to TV is usually HDMI. If there is more than one TV outlet than after the ONT is a multi-port splitter. If you want your TV connected to the internet via a wired Ethernet connection then you would also need a Cat 5 or higher level cable.

Not necessarily. Local tv/internet company here runs fiber into the house to an indoor ont. from there it’s all Ethernet cabling or wireless to the tv boxes and wireless routers. No coax involved.
 
I have Fios. Coax is run to each tuner, and typical A/V cabling to the TV and/or A/V equipment: HDMI for both audio and video, or optic or RCA-type coax for audio and component, S-video, or RCA-type coax for the video.

F-connector coax to the TV is the lowest-resolution signal, RCA-type coax is better, S-video is better still, and component or HDMI is the best. The last two are the only video signal types you can use for high-definition signals.
 
F-connector coax to the TV is the lowest-resolution signal, RCA-type coax is better, S-video is better still, and component or HDMI is the best. The last two are the only video signal types you can use for high-definition signals.

Going to disagree with you there. I will agree that coax from the cable box to the TV is going to give you "standard definition". That is if you can still find a cable box with an "F" connector output. But a coax connection to the TV from an antenna for over-the-air broadcasts is HD, probably better than cable (for what channels you may get).

Also, with HDMI there can be compatibility issues between certain cable boxes and certain TVs making you use the component outputs and inputs (what you call RCA coax). Component is HD (1080p) but not up to the latest 4K (2160p) if that's even supported by your cable box and TV.

-Hal
 
Going to disagree with you there. I will agree that coax from the cable box to the TV is going to give you "standard definition". That is if you can still find a cable box with an "F" connector output. But a coax connection to the TV from an antenna for over-the-air broadcasts is HD, probably better than cable (for what channels you may get).
I don't disagree with you here. I was referring to the external tuner's "ch. 3" output.

Also, with HDMI there can be compatibility issues between certain cable boxes and certain TVs making you use the component outputs and inputs (what you call RCA coax). Component is HD (1080p) but not up to the latest 4K (2160p) if that's even supported by your cable box and TV.
I use component video (or upscaled video) exclusively in my home theater; no digital video. I feed 5-line RGB-HV (XVGA) to my CRT projector through a component-to-XVGA transcoder.

The resolution of HDMI is factually limited, and can be artificially (intentionally) limited, while the resolution of analog video (which component and VGA are) is theoretically unlimited.
 
I don't disagree with you here. I was referring to the external tuner's "ch. 3" output.


I use component video (or upscaled video) exclusively in my home theater; no digital video. I feed 5-line RGB-HV (XVGA) to my CRT projector through a component-to-XVGA transcoder.

The resolution of HDMI is factually limited, and can be artificially (intentionally) limited, while the resolution of analog video (which component and VGA are) is theoretically unlimited.

antiquated!
 
antiquated!
Hardly. 7.2 channel, 2200 watts continuous audio.

Stack3.jpg Proj1.jpg Panel1.jpg Panel2.jpg


I guess you'd say the same about my phonograph and vinyl records, too.

Wait until you see my 1915 RCA Victor crank-up phonograph and 78's.


Not mine, but identical including finish:

XI.htm3.jpg

Similar model open, different finish from mine:

il_340x270.1743230973_1mtq.jpg

(Tone arm on wrong side for some reason)
 
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You can use cat. Cable from fios to the tv, it will be internet tv.
My 4K Samsung is on it.
 
You can use cat. Cable from fios to the tv, it will be internet tv.
My 4K Samsung is on it.

Do you just plug into ethernet connector on the tv or ethernet connector on the wall? I guess you run cat 5 fro Fios to ethernet connection on the wall and then you connect another cat5 cable from the wall point to your tv?
 
Hardly. 7.2 channel, 2200 watts continuous audio.

View attachment 22245 View attachment 22246 View attachment 22247 View attachment 22248


I guess you'd say the same about my phonograph and vinyl records, too.

Wait until you see my 1915 RCA Victor crank-up phonograph and 78's.


Not mine, but identical including finish:

View attachment 22243

Similar model open, different finish from mine:

View attachment 22244

(Tone arm on wrong side for some reason)

The sound is fabulous however the video could be upgraded.
4k , HDR , 240 motion ........
Projection in my opinion is old tech for the home theater. :D
 
Do you just plug into ethernet connector on the tv or ethernet connector on the wall? I guess you run cat 5 fro Fios to ethernet connection on the wall and then you connect another cat5 cable from the wall point to your tv?

I don't have Fios, but in January I almost changed over so looked all the stuff up. Suggest you do too.
On the Fios modem is a rj45 jack.
Me personally I ran 1) coax and 2) cat5 to every place I thought needed teledata.
I have now modified with wifi routers and hard lines, so to your question all my cats are "home runs" to a wifi router that home runs to the main wifi router that home runs to the modem. For Fios just make sure you get the modem with the rj45 jack.
I plug right into my tv, it has "Smart hub" so get prime, Hulu, Netflix,etc., if you have a subscription and enter them into memory; my entertainment system I have computer on cat5, Avr on cat5, tv on cat5, Roku on wifi., powered over the air antenna.
I drilled holes and just have a 2g teledata roughing ring with the home runs hanging out, can't see them behind big wood entertainment furniture ; I wanted a rack system but the wife said " not in my living room!".
 
The sound is fabulous however the video could be upgraded.
4k , HDR , 240 motion ........
Projection in my opinion is old tech for the home theater. :D
Well, it is old tech. It is rated for 1600 x 1200p. There was no such thing as 4K when I put it together.

How much would it cost to project 4K at 10 feet diagonal?
 
Well, the claimed 2200W of consumer audio is probably 500 actual watts. Then consider that you will never turn that up loud enough to even come near that 500.

I have a Crown ComTech 800W commercial amp (so those are real watts) supplying my foreground music system in my house. It requires Class 1 speaker wiring. That amp has the easiest life, I doubt it even puts out 30 watts.

-Hal
 
Well, the claimed 2200W of consumer audio is probably 500 actual watts. Then consider that you will never turn that up loud enough to even come near that 500.

I have a Crown ComTech 800W commercial amp (so those are real watts) supplying my foreground music system in my house. It requires Class 1 speaker wiring. That amp has the easiest life, I doubt it even puts out 30 watts.
My amplifiers are a Sunfire Stereo (300w x 2) and a Sunfire Theater (200w x 5), and the powered subwoofers in my Definitive Technology BP2000 speakers (300w ea).

The Sunfire Stereo feeds the BP2000 main speakers (bi-wired), the Sunfire Cinema Grand feeds the center (CLR-2000), side (BP-X), and rear (BP-20) speakers.

The system is supplied by a 50a sub-panel. Each amplifier has its own 15a circuit, and the sub amps share a 15a circuit. So, you tell me: is my power "real watts"?
 
The system is supplied by a 50a sub-panel. Each amplifier has its own 15a circuit, and the sub amps share a 15a circuit. So, you tell me: is my power "real watts"?

The ONLY way to measure what an amp is capable of (and test whether it is operating properly) is to feed it into a resistive load equal to it's rated output impedance (2,4 or 8 ohms). Then supply it with a sine wave (start at 400Hz) from an audio generator while looking at the output across the load with a scope. Increase the level from the generator until it just starts to clip. Then use the formula P=E2/R to determine the watts where E is the RMS voltage across the load and R is the load resistance you used. Run the audio generator down to 20Hz and up to 20KHz to see the frequency response. This is a basic test.

Consumer audio manufacturers come up with all kinds of tests to justify that their equipment provides lots of power because the more power the more they can get from audiophiles who don't know any better. Most is just smoke and mirrors. Pretty much the same as consumer power equipment that say their motors "deliver 2Hp peak" when it's the size of a 1/4Hp.

-Hal
 
From: http://www.hifi-review.com/153488-sunfire-stereo-power.html

We tested the Sunfire into loads of 8, 4, and 2 ohms, driving only one channel at a time to prevent interruptions from circuit breakers tripping on our AC line (we did blow the amplifier's own 10-ampere fuses on several occasions and had to resort to temporary use of 20-amp fuses to push the Sunfire to its limit into 2 ohms).

The Sunfire amplifier easily surpassed its published ratings, which are based on a limit of 0.5 percent distortion. Its distortion below the clipping point was typically well under 0.05 percent, and its dynamic and clipping-level power outputs were practically identical, as one would expect from a true voltage source.
 
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