The VFD display should tell you the mode that it is in. If it’s stopped then you don’t get an output. What you see on the screen may be an actual output or just a speed reference...how fast it should go IF it is running.
If this is the only make/model you deal with then study the little status indicators on the screen. If you work with several different ones it’s easier and faster to just check the IO settings and the IO monitor/diagnostics menus first after doing basic electrical checks. This may include switching to keypad mode to eliminate input problems.
Check in the monitoring and diagnostics menus. Check what your digital inputs are and what it thinks your output is, Check the IO menu to determine what the various IO should do. Compare these and it should be obvious what the problem is. That’s what someone with 20 years of experience including VFDs would do.
Because of how flexible they are most VFDs can have any input programmed to do anything and there are multiple ways to do things. For instance you could have DI1 and DI2 programmed as 3 wire start and stop. Or as forward and reverse 2 wire fun. Or as 2 wire run and forward/reverse. And you can have other inputs as enable, base block, E-Stop, etc. So taking the first 2 in 3 wire mode loss of either input prevents it from running. In 2 wire mode it is a little different. You get the idea. AND you need to know if it’s 120 VAC (rare these days) or 24 VDC sourcing or sinking. And even if you know all that it could still be a burned out input so the only way to know for sure what is happening is via the monitoring/diagnostic menu, assuming it’s a run input command issue. It takes me about 15 minutes with an unfamiliar VFD to figure out what’s going on and most of that is pushing buttons.
The fact that you said ohmed out a motor says something. Were you checking continuity of doing a milliohm test? Or insulation resistance? Two of these tests are diagnostic. One is almost utterly useless. With 20 years of experience you should know which is which. I’ll give you a hint...which tests does your motor shop do?
Then we have the issue of whether or not it is getting the correct speed command which again requires looking at the settings and the inputs as the drive sees them. VFDs have multiple references so you need to know which one(s) it is reading.
Then we can do similar things with the outputs.
This may sound very complicated to a first year but it’s not. You just have to take the time to learn how a VFD works.
As suggested putting it in keypad control bypasses troubleshooting all the inputs first and verifies if it is a drive output problem or just an IO issue. But some VFDs continue to follow enable or Stop so keypad mode alone may not be enough. Another gotcha you learn after a few years.
At the end of the day though VFDs are very similar for the most part. You need to know how it works to troubleshoot it. Your answers say you don’t and since you’re not listening you better call someone that desks with VFDs. ABB VFDs are quirky and support from Berlin is crap. ASEA has always been a bad influence on the company. Back when it was Brown Boveri, Baldor, Robicon, etc., different story.
As to 20 years of experience I’ve met guys like you. They don’t listen. Multiple responders said to check the output at the motor or at the drive, something your first post never mentioned. Then the suggestions are to either bypass inputs or check inputs, again something you never did. The first rule of troubleshooting is that you compare what you observed to what is expected, Then you look for what is causing it. Do you replace a breaker when if trios without looking for what caused it? That’s what first years do.
So with 20 years of experience most people have a progression. They have experience like 1, 2, 3...20. In your case yours is more parallel and you are still making first year mistakes. So it’s more like 1, 1, 1..,1. See, 20 years of experience, all first years, I’ll bet you change breakers because they trip, too.
