water proof low voltage connections

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To me this is the most important part of LV. I get so many call backs it is silly. Lately I have been using a plymouth splice kit with a basic stakon. The splice kit can be used for numerous splices and the joint is as good as it gets.

Kim lighting makes a great splice kit but they are $14 each. That is a bit pricey, IMO.

These are nice but pricey

Gardner_Bender_HSB-28_Butt_Splice_Kit.jpg
 
Dennis Alwon said:
To me this is the most important part of LV. I get so many call backs it is silly. Lately I have been using a plymouth splice kit with a basic stakon. The splice kit can be used for numerous splices and the joint is as good as it gets.

Dennis, do you have a part number for the plymouth kit?

I agree that this is the most important part of the installation. What do you think of the King Dry Conn's? I wasn't particularly impressed in the past, but they seem to be one of the more reasonably priced alternatives.
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It is a plymouth 02635. I think I paid $14 for the kit but you can cut the rubber and use it for multiple apps. I got it from CES (City Electric Supply)

PLYMTHC00002_7_PE_001.jpg
 
I never really worry about keeping the connections dry. Or at least not any more dry than those cheap cable piercing connections that come with the fixtures. I cut the feed cable at each light and connect both cable ends with the fixture tails using a Buchanan crimp and a splice cap and then tape that up.

The all copper crimp and wires seem to make a good long term connection.

Mark
 
busman said:
I never really worry about keeping the connections dry. Or at least not any more dry than those cheap cable piercing connections that come with the fixtures. I cut the feed cable at each light and connect both cable ends with the fixture tails using a Buchanan crimp and a splice cap and then tape that up.

The all copper crimp and wires seem to make a good long term connection.

Mark
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indeed... piercing saddle taps suck. what i've seen that seems to work well, but
makes splitting the connection later difficult, is making up with a wirenut, taping
the wires together above the wirenut so it doesn't get pulled on, and dipping the
wirenut in scotchcote, leaving it upside down to dry full of sealer...

edit: best done AFTER everything is in and tested....
 
Ordinary wire nuts. If direct buried, stick each one into a Scotch epoxy-pack. If in a handhole, just dip each completed connection in Scotch-Kote.
 
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