What can a 3x2x2 box legally be used for besides the end of a 14-2 outlet circuit or a switch?

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dirtynails

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LarryFine said:
I've certainly done that, depending on the job. Kudos for removing the device ears and adjusting the box ears. (y)

Are those 6-32s I see screwed into the wood? :eek:
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Nope, #6x1/2 sheet metal screws. This method certainly seems cleanest if there's no reason why not.
 
James L

James L

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Location
Kansas Cty, Mo, USA
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Electrician
LarryFine said:
I've certainly done that, depending on the job. Kudos for removing the device ears and adjusting the box ears. (y)

Are those 6-32s I see screwed into the wood? :eek:
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If you don't cut the ears off, the plate won't sit right.

Can't seem to drive that into anybody's head around these parts
 
Knuckle Dragger

Knuckle Dragger

Master Electrician Electrical Contractor 01752
Location
Marlborough, Massachusetts USA
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Electrical Contractor
dirtynails said:
You mean like this one I did yesterday?

View attachment 2555601
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Yup,
Typically use the P&S S 1-18-W or the S122w box. I find them easier to cut in.
I try install the receptacle on the same side the MW power cord comes through the cabinet to minimize the space that it takes up.
PS. I find it depends on the plate that I install on whether I have to take off the ears.
I do like how the device rests in that space when the ears are taken off.
 
James L

James L

Senior Member
Location
Kansas Cty, Mo, USA
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Electrician
Knuckle Dragger said:
I try install the receptacle on the same side the MW power cord comes through the cabinet to minimize the space that it takes up.
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Most usually, there's a gap between the top of the microwave and the bottom of the cabinet.

I drill the hole for the cord directly under the receptacle. Then after pulling all the cord through and fastening the microwave, I push all the cord slack back down into that gap.

Even on custom cabinets that are solid right where the microwave cord is, I'll drill some of that blocking out to channel the cord over to that gap
 
Knuckle Dragger

Knuckle Dragger

Master Electrician Electrical Contractor 01752
Location
Marlborough, Massachusetts USA
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Electrical Contractor
James L said:
Most usually, there's a gap between the top of the microwave and the bottom of the cabinet.

I drill the hole for the cord directly under the receptacle. Then after pulling all the cord through and fastening the microwave, I push all the cord slack back down into that gap.

Even on custom cabinets that are solid right where the microwave cord is, I'll drill some of that blocking out to channel the cord over to that gap
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Most of the time it's on the right side.
I hardly ever install the microwave unless it's solely a job that I'm doing.
 
LarryFine

LarryFine

Master Electrician Electric Contractor Richmond VA
Location
Henrico County, VA
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Electrical Contractor
James L said:
I drill the hole for the cord directly under the receptacle. Then after pulling all the cord through and fastening the microwave, I push all the cord slack back down into that gap.
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Absolutely. (y) I almost mentioned it earlier.
 
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dirtynails

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James L said:
Most usually, there's a gap between the top of the microwave and the bottom of the cabinet.

I drill the hole for the cord directly under the receptacle. Then after pulling all the cord through and fastening the microwave, I push all the cord slack back down into that gap.

Even on custom cabinets that are solid right where the microwave cord is, I'll drill some of that blocking out to channel the cord over to that gap
Click to expand...
In this case I was upgrading an old kitchen from hood to MW. The cabs are Depot "Euro style" frameless so there's no space under. And I was limited both by how much slack I had in the cable I had fished originally and where the studs were. So there it went. I put them in the top corner to get the cords out of the way as much as possible even though if I put them on the bottom only the tall would see it.

What I have yet to figure out is ducting a MW/hood without a deathmatch. Done it twice and it's nearly impossible to attach the 6" round to rectangular adapter in there.
 
James L

James L

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Location
Kansas Cty, Mo, USA
Occupation
Electrician
dirtynails said:
In this case I was upgrading an old kitchen from hood to MW. The cabs are Depot "Euro style" frameless so there's no space under. And I was limited both by how much slack I had in the cable I had fished originally and where the studs were. So there it went. I put them in the top corner to get the cords out of the way as much as possible even though if I put them on the bottom only the tall would see it.

What I have yet to figure out is ducting a MW/hood without a deathmatch. Done it twice and it's nearly impossible to attach the 6" round to rectangular adapter in there.
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Depending on your ducting route.....

Top of a microwave is typically 3"x10" if I remember correctly. If you're ducting into the attic and out, you can go rectangle all the way into the attic, then adapt to round.

If you're ducting out the wall from inside the cabinet, you can go rectangle up to the top of the cabinet and cap it off. Then cut a round takeoff into the back side of the rectangle and go straight out without a direct adapter
 
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dirtynails

Member
Location
NJ
James L said:
Depending on your ducting route.....

Top of a microwave is typically 3"x10" if I remember correctly. If you're ducting into the attic and out, you can go rectangle all the way into the attic, then adapt to round.

If you're ducting out the wall from inside the cabinet, you can go rectangle up to the top of the cabinet and cap it off. Then cut a round takeoff into the back side of the rectangle and go straight out without a direct adapter
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Its connecting the rectangular to the flange on the MW that's the problem. You can't get screws in there, and taping with foil tape is a bear. I've been running it out a soffit to the outer wall, so it could be rectangular up into there but I still would struggle with the 1st connection. And with the "tip up" wall flange mounting of the units its not like you can put on a 12" length and then install the MW.

While I'm kvetching, F-ing Samsung strikes again. In the directions it simply says 'install the carbon filter at the top vent'. There's no obvious way, no door or latch. I google and find that you have to remove 3 screws and slide the whole top of the front frame to the left! Seriously? They didn't think that needed to be explained!!! And needing to remove screws for something that needs regular changing is simply crappy design.
 
LarryFine

LarryFine

Master Electrician Electric Contractor Richmond VA
Location
Henrico County, VA
Occupation
Electrical Contractor
dirtynails said:
Its connecting the rectangular to the flange on the MW that's the problem. You can't get screws in there, and taping with foil tape is a bear.
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The trick is to position the opening of the duct in the right place and level with the cabinet bottom or skirt, so the MW outlet will "plug" into it when you raise the MW. There isn't supposed to be any direct attachment between the outlet flange and the duct.
 
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dirtynails

Member
Location
NJ
LarryFine said:
The trick is to position the opening of the duct in the right place and level with the cabinet bottom or skirt, so the MW outlet will "plug" into it when you raise the MW. There isn't supposed to be any direct attachment between the outlet flange and the duct.
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How can that be? You'd be leaking greasy air into the cab interior!
 
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