What is the real problem with this range ?

[Burnerbob]

Had a call from a technician on an "Electric-Range" his readings are : L1- Neutral=120 volts, L2- Neutral=120 volts,L1-L2= 240volts.
But L1 to chassis ground=180 volts, L2 to chassis ground=70 volts and cannot get the unit to operate. I figure some kind of short to ground, though I am not the Electrician "Grandpa" was. :smile:

 

[JohnJ0906]

Had a call from a technician on an "Electric-Range" his readings are : L1- Neutral=120 volts, L2- Neutral=120 volts,L1-L2= 240volts.
But L1 yp chassis ground=180 volts, L2 to chassis ground=70 volts and cannot get the unit to operate. I figure some kind of short to ground, though I am not the Electrician "Grandpa" was. :smile:

Where exactly were the readings taken at? At the receptacle? At the terminals on the range?

Is this a 3-wire or 4 wire installation, and is the neutral-ground jumper installed or not?

 

[Buck Parrish]

It sounds like one phase may be feeding through on the neutral or grounding conductor some how. The answer to post #2 would be helpful.

If all the other 240 volt appliances are working okay. Then it is some where in the circuit from the breaker to the range's internal wiring.
Check all the connections. And you should find the problem.

It could be potentionally dangerous. You should call an electrician.:smile:
Grand pa could have had it fixed with in miutes, no dought.:wink:
A range is wired a lot simpler then most furnaces. You can probably fix it.
Good Luck

 

[ItsHot]

Mexico

Mexico

It was assemblied in Mexico! "heco en mexico"!:smile:

 

[kbsparky]

Did he take readings with one or more of the elements switched on (under load)?

 

[Mule]

Had a call from a technician on an "Electric-Range" his readings are : L1- Neutral=120 volts, L2- Neutral=120 volts,L1-L2= 240volts.
But L1 to chassis ground=180 volts, L2 to chassis ground=70 volts and cannot get the unit to operate. I figure some kind of short to ground, though I am not the Electrician "Grandpa" was. :smile:

My guess is that he checked it at the outlet with out the range plugged in and it looked fine. Then when it is plugged in....the range is not grounded and L2 is slightly shorted to the case rendering those voltages. Bad element covered with grease and food?

 

[480sparky]

I'll take "3-wire branch circuits with no grounding conductor" for $500, Alex.

Sounds like there's no continuity on the ground.

 

[Mule]

I'll take "3-wire branch circuits with no grounding conductor" for $500, Alex.

Sounds like there's no continuity on the ground.

Just keep that "Drunk Dog" away from it... Im still laughing about that..

 

[Burnerbob]

He claims that this is a four wire 240 vlt range, and he took these readings at the terminal block on the range. It is hard wired, no plug.
He is wondering if there might be a component he is missing ?
Sorry but I know certain things as far as electricity, but I come here with the hopes of getting the answers to what I am rough on. :smile:

 

[JohnJ0906]

Did he measure voltage from neutral to ground?

Did he ensure that the neutral/ground bond was removed?

Were the measurements taken with everything on the range turned off?

 

[480sparky]

He claims that this is a four wire 240 vlt range, and he took these readings at the terminal block on the range. It is hard wired, no plug.
He is wondering if there might be a component he is missing ?
Sorry but I know certain things as far as electricity, but I come here with the hopes of getting the answers to what I am rough on. :smile:

I'd still suggest checking for an open ground.

It the cord & receptacle 3- or 4-wire? Also check the cable feeding it.... is it 3-wire or 4-wire?

 

[Burnerbob]

This is four wire b/x. Red,Black connected to 40 amp breaker. White connected to neutral buss bar. Green connected to ground terminal.
This is what he found after tracing cable to breaker box.
Readings were taken at terminal block on range.

 

[Mule]

This is four wire b/x. Red,Black connected to 40 amp breaker. White connected to neutral buss bar. Green connected to ground terminal.
This is what he found after tracing cable to breaker box.
Readings were taken at terminal block on range.

I still think he has a "open ground" to the case, and a "shorted element"

Turn off power, take some resistance readings from the elements to the case

 

[480sparky]

Check all the connections in the circuit. Even the terminals in the receptacle. Maybe there's a j-box somewhere along the line as well.

 

[Mule]

Check all the connections in the circuit. Even the terminals in the receptacle. Maybe there's a j-box somewhere along the line as well.

I think he said it was "hard wired" ,but, your right when he finds that open ground it will probably kick the breaker...

 

[Burnerbob]

Not as bad as I thought

Not as bad as I thought

As I origanally posted "Short to Ground". Thanks will tell him to check everything, he thinks there is a capacitor that is blown causing this problem. :smile:

 

[Buck Parrish]

Burnerbob , If all the other 240 volt appliances are working okay .This is going to be a simple problem to fix. You just need an electrician.
This is the type of problem I tell the customer. "I'd have to come their and look at it"

 

[cadpoint]

I'll take "3-wire branch circuits with no grounding conductor" for $500, Alex.

Sounds like there's no continuity on the ground.

I don't think of the ground as ever being "loaded".

I'm not an oven man, I don't get to deal with this install very often.

The neutral with the new Code application is carring only the unbalanced load and this is a resistive load and I also think of it as a load that will take all it can use.

I believe, I know what you meant but its usuage here as you stated it might be the wrong "word" for this fix:

Continuity – An uninterrupted path for the flow of electrical current in a
circuit. based on this site here

What I think you meant as it was used, should have been more in this vain:

uninterrupted connection or union
...
the property of a continuous and connected period of time
wordnet.princeton.edu/perl/webwn

Sorry the word just struck and stuck with me...

 

[Burnerbob]

He is an "Appliance Technician", unfortunately most of his backgroung is with gas ranges. This new company he is working for does both gas and electric and they just threw him out without further training. :-?

 

[DanZ]

But L1 to chassis ground=180 volts, L2 to chassis ground=70 volts and cannot get the unit to operate.

Is anyone else at all worried about this being 250 Volts to chassis? It seems a little high to be a cheap meter. Especially if he's getting 120V on each line.:-?