wire in conduit

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But if you ran 10 AWG conductors for 20 amp circuits because you needed to adjust ampacity - you also need to adjust the EGC proportionally per250.122 (B) and would need 10 AWG EGC.

so i would need to run #10 throughout entire lenght of conduit plus mc cable or just in conduit during derating of circuits?
 
so i would need to run #10 throughout entire lenght of conduit plus mc cable or just in conduit during derating of circuits?

The derating only applies to the portion of the circuits that are within the conduits unless you end up bundling the MC cables together. If the MC is run in individual runs then you can use #10's for the portion in the raceway and #12's for the MC cable and a 20 amp OCPD.
 
A
If someone specifies #10 solid conductors they have no practical knowledge of how things are installed. I'll stop short of calling them dopes. :eek:hmy:

:D

From prints I was using a couple nights ago. So common here it does not surprise me. Not even difficult.
 

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:D

From prints I was using a couple nights ago. So common here it does not surprise me. Not even difficult.

I find it stupid and have yet to find a designer who can justify why they would spec #10 solid. :slaphead:
 
I'm with Infinity. I see no reason to specify solid #10, unless the designer was planning on wrapping the #10 around screw terminals of devices.

Is this plan where you would have to wrap #10 around screw terminals of 15 or 20 amp switches or receptacles?

If one uses the receptacles with the built in screwed clamps, stranded works fine.

But, I do see where it is easier not to question the plan designer and try for a change. "I've always drawn them this way and I'm not changing, my stamp, not yours!" Just copy and paste boiler plate...
 
:D

From prints I was using a couple nights ago. So common here it does not surprise me. Not even difficult.
#10 solid is SOP in all areas of the Southeast US where I have worked, it has never been a problem to work with and no, we don't usually terminate it to a device.

Roger
 
... So common here it does not surprise me. Not even difficult.

#10 solid is SOP in all areas of the Southeast US where I have worked, it has never been a problem to work with and no, we don't usually terminate it to a device.

Roger

When I worked for an EC, Ditto.

You guys have no idea how good life can be once you switch to stranded. It's like discovering soft toilet paper, you never want to go back.
 
You guys have no idea how good life can be once you switch to stranded. It's like discovering soft toilet paper, you never want to go back.
That's the reason we have Popeye arms and you guys have Olive Oyl arms. :D

Roger
 
Having used both types at my discretion, solid definitely has some advantages. It's a lot easier to push it through conduit, it's easier to terminate on devices and making up grounds, and it's a lot easier to make a panel neater with solid wire. That said, I don't recommend it if you have to go in and out of multiple pull points, especially LB's or 4 squares. Wireway is not so bad. But for regular box to box runs for outlets and so forth, solid is the way to go. I always recommend the deepest possible box when using solid though. If depth is an issue, go with stranded.
 
A 6X6X4 would allow 57-#10 conductors.
Why anyone would pull #10 solid in a raceway is beyond me. :slaphead:

If someone specifies #10 solid conductors they have no practical knowledge of how things are installed. I'll stop short of calling them dopes. :eek:hmy:

let me help... they aren't dopes.
however, they are incandescently stupid.

yeah, let's use #10 solid, and by the way,
let's put a LB in the middle of the run.

now, just for grins, lets pull it the wrong way
thru the LB.

i'm old, and stubborn. if someone insisted i pull
#10 solid, i'd probably just quit.
 
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