First the creds. Not a licensed electrician, but worked as apprentice to a licensed electrician for 3 years. Then got BSEE. I have two houses where I do my own work, and I always pull a permit. Only time I ever flunked an inspection (have had about 12 over my history of houses) was for Romex staples that were too tight. Eveything else (ranging from completely new servces to entire kitchen) has passed.
My question below has been beaten to death in several past forums but there still seems to be confusion --- perhaps just semantics, but I want to do this right. So I am hoping someone will weigh in --- yet again.
I have a 100 amp service that comes into an attached garage from the meter to an old-fashioned 100 A fused disconnect --- nothing else in that box. From there two runs emanate. One goes about 40' to a "fusebox" in the basement --- not gonna mess with that right now. The second one goes right nearby to a collection of haphazardly mounted, daisy chained little one- and two-circuit panels (likewise old style knife-swtiches and fuses of all different sizes). I plan to replace these six random boxes with a single 100 A subpanel (or is it an extension of the "service panel"?) with properly-sized breakers for each branch circuit. What is prompting this upgrade is that I am adding a 220v circuit for a new AC compressor located behind the garage.
I will connect the new 100 A panel to the load side of the service disconnect. The new panel will be less than 18" from the service disconnect box, connected to it by a short piece of EMT. My question is: What size wire is required to go from the main disconnect to the adjacent panel? It seems to me that #4 (Cu) through 1" conduit is okay for the hots and neutral #8 for the EGC, but I wanted to know if anyone thinks I must use #2.
Just to anticipate your question as to why I am installing a subpanel instead of a new SE panel, it's because I cannot easily replace the main disconnect. The service cable comes from underground and is routed through the main disconnect box up to the meter with one splice, then comes back down from the meter. So I cannot eliminate live conductors in the main disconnect box by pulling the meter. I would need to get the utility company involved --- a major pain for a weekend warrior.
Sorry to be so long-winded, but this is rather specitic. With appreciation for your help in advance.
Rick
My question below has been beaten to death in several past forums but there still seems to be confusion --- perhaps just semantics, but I want to do this right. So I am hoping someone will weigh in --- yet again.
I have a 100 amp service that comes into an attached garage from the meter to an old-fashioned 100 A fused disconnect --- nothing else in that box. From there two runs emanate. One goes about 40' to a "fusebox" in the basement --- not gonna mess with that right now. The second one goes right nearby to a collection of haphazardly mounted, daisy chained little one- and two-circuit panels (likewise old style knife-swtiches and fuses of all different sizes). I plan to replace these six random boxes with a single 100 A subpanel (or is it an extension of the "service panel"?) with properly-sized breakers for each branch circuit. What is prompting this upgrade is that I am adding a 220v circuit for a new AC compressor located behind the garage.
I will connect the new 100 A panel to the load side of the service disconnect. The new panel will be less than 18" from the service disconnect box, connected to it by a short piece of EMT. My question is: What size wire is required to go from the main disconnect to the adjacent panel? It seems to me that #4 (Cu) through 1" conduit is okay for the hots and neutral #8 for the EGC, but I wanted to know if anyone thinks I must use #2.
Just to anticipate your question as to why I am installing a subpanel instead of a new SE panel, it's because I cannot easily replace the main disconnect. The service cable comes from underground and is routed through the main disconnect box up to the meter with one splice, then comes back down from the meter. So I cannot eliminate live conductors in the main disconnect box by pulling the meter. I would need to get the utility company involved --- a major pain for a weekend warrior.
Sorry to be so long-winded, but this is rather specitic. With appreciation for your help in advance.
Rick
