Wiremold vs the unhappy customer

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If the backless wiremold doesn't satisfy the inspector, you could always suggest removing it and nailing a 2x4 to the wall for physical protection. Since the 2x4 isn't listed.... :D
 
Or go even farther and remove the baseboard, run the NM down the wall, out at the bottom, across the wall below the drywall, back in the drywall and up, and replace the baseboard, carefully avoiding the NM when nailing.
 
Once had a customer want a light switch for some outdoor lighting located at a gate that was at least 1000' from the house. He said he just wanted it in case he pulled in at night and needed to off load cattle and horses. Ran #8 just to cover any voltage drop and a couple of in ground pull boxes and 3000+' of wire. I get all done and he says to me, "so I can turn this on at the house and at the gate, right?", "no, you only said you wanted a switch at the gate", "well that's stupid why would I only want a switch at the gate", "I don't know, that's what you said and the cutomer is always right".

No I did not fix it the conduit was to small to allow two more wires for travelers for a three way and he didn't really want to pay for another 2000' or wire and conduit. The more work I did for the guy the more I learned that I had to ask many questions so that he got what he wanted and not what he asked for.
 
I thought I d update you all so the customer did a little research and realized that I did in fact do the work as I should have the onlt thing they want now is for me to make a small change ad a 90 next to the switch so the wiremold is closer to the trim around the door . not sure I agree that this is any beter then it is but what ever im just going to do it and yes I explained everything about the job .
 
cowboyjwc said:
No I did not fix it the conduit was to small to allow two more wires for travelers for a three way . . .
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John, two things:

1) Unless you needed an always-hot conductor for something, you only need to pull one additional conductor. You could always use the two #8's to pull three #10's in the existing conduit if it's that tight.

2) You can also use a simple X-10 setup with no rewiring, and give the customer the option of controlling the light via a switch at the house, one at the gate, and even a key fob to keep in the truck or his pocket.


The latter would probably set you back less than $100, and could even give you an always-hot receptacle at the gate if you desire. Ask me how if you're interested.
 
Jerseydaze said:
The customer did a little research and realized that I did in fact do the work as I should have.
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Comforting, isn't it? :smile: Good for you. In the future, keep in mind what John has learned:

cowboyjwc said:
The more work I did for the guy the more I learned that I had to ask many questions so that he got what he wanted and not what he asked for.
Click to expand...
 
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