Wiring a New House

Status
Not open for further replies.
I doubt it's a violation, but the plywood is just easier to install, remember your going to have catv and phone run back to somewhere... it just makes the install easier... Would you rather just shoot a piece of plywood to the wall and screw your panel to that or drill a bunch a holes and rawls for a panel?
 
Last edited:
I have not seen a 2 gang plastic box rated for 8/3 rx yet. not to say there is not one, I just have not found on on a job yet. I turn them down.
 
image_range4.gif

image_range5.gif


http://www.alliedmoulded.com/outlet_range.cfm

Sorry Cavie...:)
 
stickboy1375 said:
Not to tell you what to do, but shoot a piece of 3/4 plywood to the foundation first...
Click to expand...

I would install the plywood too.

That said, I don't understand why this suddenly becomes an issue in residential settings. We frequently mount panelboards, disconnects, and other equipment directly to concrete in commercial and industrial work.
 
Sonny Boy said:
So use @12 X 1/2" Long screws to secure the panel to the plywood instead of, say, #12 x 1-1/4" Long concrete fasteners?
Click to expand...


Has to do with ease of installing other equipment, not just the panel... for instance most homes I do will have a 40 circuit panel, a 24 circuit panel, phone & catv splices, gfi receptacle, and maybe a alarm panel... so plywood makes the install easier.... but only IMO...
 
Clarity

Clarity

stickboy1375 said:
Has to do with ease of installing other equipment, not just the panel... for instance most homes I do will have a 40 circuit panel, a 24 circuit panel, phone & catv splices, gfi receptacle, and maybe a alarm panel... so plywood makes the install easier.... but only IMO...
Click to expand...

The panel will be recessed in the furred basement wall.
 
Sonny Boy said:
Need some pointers.
Click to expand...
Mike, I've skimmed over your post record, and I am under the impression that you are not a licensed electrician. Do-It-Yourself advice is prohibited by the forum rules, and I am not convinced that you are a legitimate electrical contractor.

There are some basic principles that should be known from serving a conventional apprenticeship, and with the incomplete picture I see, it seems to me you haven't served one.

I am closing this thread, and sending you a PM for more information.
 
I am re-opening this thread, and issuing the customary apology for the delay.

Be it known that Sonny Boy is in fact a licensed electrical contractor in the state of Washington, and by the evidence cheerfully presented does have over 20 years in the industry.

Mike, I would advise you to edit your profile, under occupation, to "Electrical Contractor". This will slow down folks reporting your posts as DIY when they are not.

So, sorry for the delay, and proceed. :)
 
Sonny Boy said:
Are there any problems with using romex staples in I-joists?
Click to expand...
Not the way I do it. Trying to staple to the web of the joist is crazy, because of the bounce. I staple to the top face of the bottom 2x3 or the bottom face of the top 2x3.
 
j_erickson said:
Using 1 mini offsets the savings of a 30/40 vs. 40/40 for me. I pay $10 more for a 40/40 BR series panel. A mini cost me about $10 more than 2 singles.
Click to expand...


This is what I can't figure out I see these 30/40 panels all the time and they are loaded with tandems and have space left in the rest of the panel. This makes no sence to me with the cost of a tandem being so high.
 
peter d said:
I would install the plywood too.

That said, I don't understand why this suddenly becomes an issue in residential settings. We frequently mount panelboards, disconnects, and other equipment directly to concrete in commercial and industrial work.
Click to expand...

It makes for a nice place to secure your romex to as it exits the panel. In commercial you will have conduit that is secured to the concrete with mini's i suspect if your not using unistrut.
 
bikeindy said:
In commercial you will have conduit that is secured to the concrete with mini's i suspect if your not using unistrut.
Click to expand...
It took me about a minute to figure out what you meant by "mini's."

I was thinking "mini whats?" Ah! Mineralacs! :roll: Duh!


I prefer stapling to 2x4 than plywood. Even on plywood, I'd add a 1x4 or 2x4.
 
Sonny Boy said:
Passed two inspections already with the panel mounted to the concrete.
Click to expand...

Never use passing inspections as an indicator of quality work. Many times it just means the inspector doesn't know what he's doing.

My understanding of why you shouldn't mount a panel to a conctete wall in a basement is because of moisture. You are not allowed to mount non-pressure treated wood directly to the wall or floor for this reason.

It's not really a problem of mounting to concrete such as in an industrial area. In a basement the concrete wall is just a barrier between the panel and moist soil. Concrete is porous and will allow small amounts of moisture to seep through.

It has become common practice to mount the panel on pressure treated plywood so the panel won't rust out ( provides a barrier ). And it gives you something to staple the Romex to.
 
stickboy1375 said:
I doubt it's a violation, but the plywood is just easier to install, remember your going to have catv and phone run back to somewhere...
Click to expand...


Stickboy1375, you are right it's not one of those clear cut violations that's enforced everywhere.

I believe that an inspector can say that a concrete wall in a basement is a damp location unless you provide a barrier to the moisture.

Here they will fail you on inspection for not having the plywood. If it were a big deal I guess people could argue the point but it's just easier to mount the pressure treated plywood.

Even if it were not required it would still be a good practice.
 
Laying half a sheet of plywood on the wall works especially well when you shoot it to the wall with a powder actuated shooter. . Hold it up, bang, bang, bang, then use regular wood screws and a cordless drill on your panel and your panel plug box. . Get it close to level for the first screw and pivot off the first screw to get it exactly level for the remaining screws. . Anything else you want to add just screws right on. . It doesn't get any easier than that.

David
 
The International Building Code requires all wood in contact with masonry to be treated.
May not be a problem with the electrical inspector but the building inspector could say something.
 
Status
Not open for further replies.
Top