Wiring switches

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Alwayslearningelec

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Have 4g box with12/2 power in and 12/2 power out. Can i twist the two hots
Together and also attach 4 pigtails to the switches?that would be 6 #12 under o e wirenut. Possible?
 
Little Bill said:
Then slap yourself later when you have to remove a switch and have to take them all out to get to it!
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Why? It is just like having a proper length wire to a device, long enough to remove the device from the box and work on it easy. i.e. make the jumper long enough. On two gang boxes I just make the incoming or outgoing hot conductor long enough to reach both switches and the wire nut. Easy Peasy.
 
Frank DuVal said:
Why? It is just like having a proper length wire to a device, long enough to remove the device from the box and work on it easy. i.e. make the jumper long enough. On two gang boxes I just make the incoming or outgoing hot conductor long enough to reach both switches and the wire nut. Easy Peasy.
Click to expand...
Talking about 3G or larger. You need to take out a switch, especially the center one, can't get it out far enough to get to the screws. Most don't ever think of having to remove the switch and don't leave enough wire to pull a switch out. I've done it both ways and prefer to pigtail to each switch. Wago Lever Nuts are great for this.

Another scenario, you install 3 or more switches and loop the hots. Customer decides they don't like the order of the switches. With the loop, you have to un-wire all the switches to move them around in the order they want. With pigtails, you can move the switches without removing the wires.
 
Well I leave enough wire! I have done too much service work on devices wired by skimpy electricians over the years. Even single box devices you can't reach the screws. How did they install them originally?

Lever nuts new to me. I do agree they are easier. Especially when the Romex hot was not left long enough to loop.:mad:
 
Little Bill said:
Talking about 3G or larger. You need to take out a switch, especially the center one, can't get it out far enough to get to the screws. Most don't ever think of having to remove the switch and don't leave enough wire to pull a switch out. I've done it both ways and prefer to pigtail to each switch. Wago Lever Nuts are great for this.

Another scenario, you install 3 or more switches and loop the hots. Customer decides they don't like the order of the switches. With the loop, you have to un-wire all the switches to move them around in the order they want. With pigtails, you can move the switches without removing the wires.
Click to expand...
Wago's will hold tight?
 
This is for a Lutron Caseta switch. So this is the scenario exactly. Have 4 switches in a box with power in/out. I can't use one wire nut for the power correct because that would be 6 #12's and then the I still have to put that black hots coming off the switch under that same wire nut. What can I do?
 
1. I would do it anyway.

2. Make several smaller joints pig-tailed together. You could have a series of 3-wire joints if you want.
 
Frank DuVal said:
Why? It is just like having a proper length wire to a device, long enough to remove the device from the box and work on it easy. i.e. make the jumper long enough. On two gang boxes I just make the incoming or outgoing hot conductor long enough to reach both switches and the wire nut. Easy Peasy.
Click to expand...
Is the jumper or pigtail also required to be no less than 6” inches for free conductor length? I’m not sure if the NEC code ever clarified this for pigtails?
 
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