Writing on the walls.

[WirenutNH]

writing on the wall

writing on the wall

I use insulation "lightening rod" ( used to hold up insulation in between joist) I install in cordless drill and drill at intersection of wall and baseboard making little holes with rod about 1" apart. If no stud is found just wet finger and rub across holes and they will fill in with dust left over.

 

[Karl H]

Magnets work fine up to a point.......the point where the drywallers starting installing sheetrock with adhesive alone.

"Drywall Adhesive" is something I have thought will be the new "Labor Saving"
technology.

 

[Karl H]

Or there is an unseen 3" ABS vent pipe run right behind the sheetrock. I use the rotating screwdriver method also. Less chance of disaster.

I have a solution for that as well. It's called a data ring with a
blank plate. :grin:

 

[220/221]

I rarely use cut in style boxes. I always prefer to secure the box to a stud. I feel it's a better installation, especially if it's a receptacle box.

Studfinder to get close to the stud, horizontal cut to the stud, vertical cut up close to 4" then place the box on the cuts and then trace (if I have a pencil)

 

[mcclary's electrical]

I rarely use cut in style boxes. I always prefer to secure the box to a stud. I feel it's a better installation, especially if it's a receptacle box.

Studfinder to get close to the stud, horizontal cut to the stud, vertical cut up close to 4" then place the box on the cuts and then trace (if I have a pencil)

My EXACT method, with smart boxes

 

[electricmanscott]

I rarely use cut in style boxes. I always prefer to secure the box to a stud. I feel it's a better installation, especially if it's a receptacle box.

I always say never ignore your feelings, even if they are wrong. :grin:

 

[nhfire77]

I am naturally un-level. I use this in combination with a stud finder.

I glued a small rare earth magnet to the other side to keep it stored to the size wall of my van by the rear doors.

 

[jrannis]

I've always traced my boxes with a pencil and a level. Guys that don't
get on my nerves, as they spend too much time guessing the size and fitting
the box. When you use a pencil and a level on the top and bottom
lines, you install the box and it's tight and already within a fraction of level.

I marked the center of my level and the outside measurements of the width and height of a cut-in box.
I then used a hacksaw to score the marks on the level.
I do not have to use the box as a template anymore.
The marks are cut into the level.

 

[boboelectric]

Good Tip .

 

[al hildenbrand]

Seems the real question in this thread is "how do you figure out where to make the first blemish on the customer's wall?"

I've got stud finders and magnets on the truck. I'll fiddle with them on occasion. The more important the "lack of blemish" is, the more likely I am to use one or more of them.

However, for the bulk of the rework box cut-in location finding, I prefer the tried-and-true knuckle rap. It's a rare wall the doesn't indicate a void center with this method. Then, twirling in the long skinny straight screwdriver near the center of the proposed location of the new cut-in is next to confirm absence of obstruction. Then I mark the outline of the cut-in.