GND Rod Options

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Bob Kraemer

Bob Kraemer

Senior Member
Location
Ohio
I normally use my roto hammer/demolition tool to drive GND rods.
This site is full of ROCKS, my above method isn't working to well.
I made a driver out of 2" black iron pipe, coupling & a pipe plug. Manged to drive it 1/2 way before it got dark & had to stop. It took almost an hour to get it that far.
I need some quick options or suggestions as I am getting the service inspected tomorrow morning.
 
kwired

kwired

Electron manager
Location
NE Nebraska
250.53(G)

(G) Rod and Pipe Electrodes. The electrode shall be installed such that at least 2.44 m (8 ft) of length is in contact with the soil. It shall be driven to a depth of not less than 2.44 m (8 ft) except that, where rock bottom is encountered, the electrode shall be driven at an oblique angle not to exceed 45 degrees from the vertical or, where rock bottom is encountered at an angle up to 45 degrees, the electrode shall be permitted to be buried in a trench that is at least 750 mm (30 in.) deep. The upper end of the electrode shall be flush with or below ground level unless the aboveground end and the grounding electrode conductor attachment are protected against physical damage as specified in 250.10.
 
Bob Kraemer

Bob Kraemer

Senior Member
Location
Ohio
My plan B option is to drive another GND rod @ a 45* angle & pray it bends/skips off of the rocks & seeks it own path.
I'll post up some pictures of this rock filled site over the weekend.
 
ohmhead

ohmhead

Senior Member
Location
ORLANDO FLA
Well
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It gos thur anything :D
 
Dennis Alwon

Dennis Alwon

Moderator
Staff member
Location
Chapel Hill, NC
Occupation
Retired Electrical Contractor
Don't even begin to tell me that you never ever used the hacksaw in situations like this.

Seriously, I hate ground rods. But you know the options so good luck.

I have learned to love the CEE, where possible, even if it means an extra trip to the site.
 
Bob Kraemer

Bob Kraemer

Senior Member
Location
Ohio
I'll use a hack saw if necassary. :grin:
What is CEE?

Dennis Alwon said:
Don't even begin to tell me that you never ever used the hacksaw in situations like this.

Seriously, I hate ground rods. But you know the options so good luck.

I have learned to love the CEE, where possible, even if it means an extra trip to the site.
Click to expand...
 
D

danickstr

Senior Member
there is a seal at the stickin up end, don't cut that off. But the 45 degree idea is best, and let it bend along the boulders.
 
jaylectricity

jaylectricity

Senior Member
Location
Massachusetts
Occupation
licensed journeyman electrician
nhfire77 said:
Maybe hit the freshly cut end with a hammer after you "trim it down" give it that driven in look. Lets the inspector know you care. :)
Click to expand...

Cut 2" off the top of the rod...then cut off the rest. When the inspector shows up, show him that 2" piece and say, "I'm sorry, I could not get this piece even with grade."
 
jaylectricity

jaylectricity

Senior Member
Location
Massachusetts
Occupation
licensed journeyman electrician
rcarroll said:
CEE = Concrete Encased Electrode. 20' of #4 rebar in the footer or 20' of bare #4 copper in the footer. See 250.52(A)(3)
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\

I've been asked to do this Wednesday. This is in lieu of a ground rod? Around here we drive a ground rod, then run the electrode to the meter socket. But I got the impression that he wanted me to terminate the #4 bare copper in the panel with the main disconnect.
 
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