Guys i can help you out with the math as I have designed quite a few solar systems over the last 3 years or so. It is so simple a high school student can do it to some degree. :grin:
There are two kinds of systems:
- Grid Interactive aka Grid Tied.
- Off-Grid Stand Alone or Battery systems.
The two systems are similar but have very different principles. The easiest to grasp is Grid Tied. The first step is to completely remodel your home with all your appliance upgrades, doors, windows, insulation, ect... As this will give the most bang for your buck and on average for every dollar spent in upgrades will save you $3 on your solar installation.
Next step is to determine your daily average Kwh usage, and then decide what portion of that you want to replace with solar power. So for the example lets say it is 25 Kwh per day on average through out the year in Kansas City MO with Net 0 usage 100% solar. You then
go to this website and download the Solar Insolation tables for your state, then look up your city to find the yearly average SUN HOURS,. This is where you learn real fast that location means everything. In this example for Kansas City the yearly average is 4.9 Hours. If you live in Gloomy Seattle it is down to 3.3, and Sunny Tucson is a whopping 5.6 Hours..
Ok you are now set to design the system. To find the solar panel wattage take the daily Kwh and multiply by 1.2 or divide by .8 to account for 80% efficiency factor. 25 Kwh / .8 = 30 Kwh. This is how much energy on average the panels must generate to net 0 usage over the course of a year. Now to find the solar panel wattage all you have to do is factor out the time element which is what you looked up wh / h = w = 30 Kwh / 4.9 h = 7.143 Kwh. Round that up to the nearest 100 and you need a 7200 watt solar panel array and an inverter to match it. In Tuscon you need a 4.76 Kw and Seattle you need 9.1 Kw ouch!
Battery systems are really ugly because we have to design for worse case and have to use two calculations, one for summer, and one for winter and use the larger of the two plus several tons of batteries. Staying with are above example using 25 Kwh we now Know right up front winter is the worse case with December being 3.3 Sun Hours. Next gotcha is at the very best a battery system is only 66% efficient. So we need to account for that for both solar panel wattage and battery calculations. So first take 25 Kwh and divide by .66 efficiency. 25 Kwh / .66 = 37.9 Kwh. Now take KCY December Sun Hours and factor out the wattage 37.9 Kwh / 3.3 h = 11.48 Kw. Think that is bad, Seattle gets a whopping 1.3 Sun Hours so you would need 29.15 Kw. Our Sunny Tucson friends get 5.6 Sun hours and only require 6.76 Kw. Location matters huh?
Now it really gets ugly, batteries. In order to get at least 5 years out of a battery you cannot discharge more than 20% capacity in one single day, and never discharge more than 50% ever or you only get a year or so going below 50%. Also you have to have some capacity to carry you through a cloudy day or two. So minimum capacity is 5 days which gives you 2.5 days to the 50% factor before you need to fire up your generator. So using the minimum of 5 days 37.9 Kwh x 5 = 189.5 Kwh reserve time. To find the amp hour requirement divide by the battery voltage which I will ignore for now because it is not important for this example. Here is the killer For each Kwh of battery requires 55 pounds and $130. So you are staring at 10,420 pounds of hazardous material which requires EPA permits and yearly FD inspection, spill containment, and $25,000 every 5 years just fore the batteries and no labor included. What a deal huh? If you select a battery system you just decided to pay 10 to 15 times more for electricity for the rest of your life.
Oh our KCY battery system would cost around $65,000 plus your labor and materials. Our Tuscon friend get off cheap at $50,000, and are gloomy friends in Seattle get stuck with a $100,000+ bill plus labor and materials for added insult and injury.. Location, location, location.