how to use this tool?

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I am unsure what the "INSUL ONLY" crimp refers to. Also above that, "INSUL AND NON INSUL" crimps VS "INSUL ONLY" and what applications they are used for?
 

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PetrosA

Senior Member
A lot of guys actually don't know that there are different crimpers for insulated and non-insulated crimps, and poorly designed tools like this don't help. The two divets for INSUL and NON INSUL are really only for non-insulated crimps, since they will punch holes through the insulation of an insulated crimp. The third divet is safe for use with insulated crimps, but it doesn't say which size. Don't spend your money on a tool like this if you really need to use crimps.
 

petersonra

Senior Member
Location
Northern illinois
Occupation
engineer
Insulated refers to whether the barrel of the connector is insulated or not.

If you have a connector with an insulated barrel you use the INSUL part of the tool to crimp it, and vice versa.

Note that the shape and size of the crimp is different because you need a different crimp for insulated versus uninsulated barrels.

Did the thing not come with instructions?
 

K8MHZ

Senior Member
Location
Michigan. It's a beautiful peninsula, I've looked
Occupation
Electrician
I don't want to sound like a wise a**, but if you need to ask that question, then you should not be using this tool.

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K8MHZ

Senior Member
Location
Michigan. It's a beautiful peninsula, I've looked
Occupation
Electrician
Insulated refers to whether the barrel of the connector is insulated or not.

If you have a connector with an insulated barrel you use the INSUL part of the tool to crimp it, and vice versa.

Note that the shape and size of the crimp is different because you need a different crimp for insulated versus uninsulated barrels.

Did the thing not come with instructions?

Since there is no downloadable user manual for those strippers on the Klien site, it's possible they don't come with instructions. Not all tools do, especially hand tools.

Also, the 7-8mm auto portion is for automotive spark plug terminals. How many sparkies know that?

I have yet to see a simple crimper able to crimp insulated terminals without damaging them. It takes a ratchet crimper with the appropriate die. The 1010 really kind of sucks for crimping anything, except maybe the web of your hand. The best feature is the bolt cutters.
 

don_resqcapt19

Moderator
Staff member
Location
Illinois
Occupation
retired electrician
Since the White Book says you have to use the crimp tool specified by the terminal manufacturer, you probably can't use that tool for any terminals per 110.3(B).
 

vicdog

Member
I think "insulation only" means you put a crimp on the crimp insulation to the wire insulation, not the lug. I think this is to help with vibration.
 

petersonra

Senior Member
Location
Northern illinois
Occupation
engineer
Since there is no downloadable user manual for those strippers on the Klien site, it's possible they don't come with instructions. Not all tools do, especially hand tools.
I went and checked the web site and I noticed there were no instructions either. I thought that was a bit odd. Hand tools that come attached to a piece of cardboard often have rudimentary instructions printed on the cardboard.

Also, the 7-8mm auto portion is for automotive spark plug terminals. How many sparkies know that?

I did not know that.

I have yet to see a simple crimper able to crimp insulated terminals without damaging them. It takes a ratchet crimper with the appropriate die. The 1010 really kind of sucks for crimping anything, except maybe the web of your hand. The best feature is the bolt cutters.

I am not a huge fan of plier type crimpers for any purpose. A ratcheting type crimper gives a much more consistent and reliable crimp.
 

electric_cal

Member
Location
California
I apologize for my response, it was indeed rude, and I apologize to all here. I have sent a personal apology to wirenut45, and I am contrite. :ashamed:
 

Besoeker

Senior Member
Location
UK
I am not a huge fan of plier type crimpers for any purpose. A ratcheting type crimper gives a much more consistent and reliable crimp.
Totally agree. That's what we use.
And they are routinely tested. Our inspector guy, who looks after all the instrument and tool calibration records, has a test rig that tries to pull a conductor out a crimped joint. It's a pass/fail test.
No pass means the tool gets scrapped.
 

don_resqcapt19

Moderator
Staff member
Location
Illinois
Occupation
retired electrician
do you have a link to this?
From the UL Guide Information for Wire Connectors and Soldering Lugs.
Use of specific tools ? A specific tool and die used to assemble a wire connector to a conductor is identified on the connector, or on or within the unit container of the connector. The identification consists of a catalog or type designation, color-coding, die index number, or equivalent means. Color-coding of the crimp barrel is common.
 

fmtjfw

Senior Member
do you have a link to this?
White book (2012) ZMOW: ZMVV:
INSTALLATION INSTRUCTIONS
Use of specific tools ? A specific tool and die used to assemble a wireconnector
adapter to a conductor is identified on the wire-connector
adapter, or on or within the unit container of the wire-connector adapter.
The identification consists of a catalog or type designation, color-coding, die
index number, or equivalent means. Color-coding of the crimp barrel is
common

ZMKQ Crimp Tools Classified for Use with Specified Wire Connectors (ZMLS)
This category covers crimp tools suitable for use with specific Listed
Grounding and Bonding Equipment (KDER), Electrical Quick-connect Terminals
(RFWV), Wire Connectors and Soldering Lugs (ZMVV) and Wireconnector
Adapters (ZMOW)
in accordance with the Classification Mark and
a compatibility list provided with the tool.
The inside cover of the tool storage case or a permanently attached label
to the tool itself contains a compatibility list that tabulates the company
name and catalog number of the crimp tool and the company name, catalog
number, wire size and number of crimps of the applicable Listed grounding
and bonding connectors, quick-connect terminals, wire connectors and
wire-connector adapters for which the crimp tool has been investigated.

QMNA
Multiple crimping operations ? The number of crimps necessary to
make a connection using the specific tool is identified on the connector, or
on or within the unit container of the connector. Absence of information
implies a single crimp

CYMT Cable limiters
Those devices investigated and intended to be secured to conductors by
crimping are additionally marked to identify the required crimp tool, die,
and number of crimps.

XCKT Termination Boxes
Factory-installed field wiring connectors requiring the use of a special
tool (such as crimp connectors)
are provided with instruction
ZMLS (tool) refers to RFWV Electrical Quick-Connect Terminals, but no back reference to ZMLS from RFWV

ZMLS (tool) refers to KDER Grounding and Bonding Equipment, but no back reference to ZMLS from KDER
 

K8MHZ

Senior Member
Location
Michigan. It's a beautiful peninsula, I've looked
Occupation
Electrician
I apologize for my response, it was indeed rude, and I apologize to all here. I have sent a personal apology to wirenut45, and I am contrite. :ashamed:

You are a good man. Thank you. We try to be fairly nice to each other here. There is a good gang here and they are pretty smart, too.

I also thank you for using the word 'contrite' which I had to look up and now have added to my vocabulary. Just when I thought I knew all the two syllable words, too.
 

K8MHZ

Senior Member
Location
Michigan. It's a beautiful peninsula, I've looked
Occupation
Electrician
I am not a huge fan of plier type crimpers for any purpose. A ratcheting type crimper gives a much more consistent and reliable crimp.

There are ratcheting crimpers that actually cold weld the conductor to the terminal. The pair I saw without dies was $180. That's the only crimper I saw that would make a solderless crimp that was more reliable than a properly soldered one.

If I do have to use a plier type crimper, this is the one I prefer:

View attachment 9556
 

PetrosA

Senior Member
There are ratcheting crimpers that actually cold weld the conductor to the terminal. The pair I saw without dies was $180. That's the only crimper I saw that would make a solderless crimp that was more reliable than a properly soldered one.

If I do have to use a plier type crimper, this is the one I prefer:

View attachment 9556

Those would be the only non-ratcheting crimpers I would use as well for larger wire sizes and it would be a good recommendation to the OP instead of the stamped metal ones. I think you can get a set like that for under $40. I do have an old set of stamped metal crimpers branded by AMP for really small wires and open type crimps where the crimp gets folded over and embedded into the strands, but that's a different animal altogether.
 

kwired

Electron manager
Location
NE Nebraska
Those would be the only non-ratcheting crimpers I would use as well for larger wire sizes and it would be a good recommendation to the OP instead of the stamped metal ones. I think you can get a set like that for under $40. I do have an old set of stamped metal crimpers branded by AMP for really small wires and open type crimps where the crimp gets folded over and embedded into the strands, but that's a different animal altogether.
That is primarily what I use. The application as well as how well failure may be able to be tolerated may make a big difference in just how bad you really need something better than this tool - JMO. Most low power general purpose applications this works with few failures. If you are a serious panel builder - you probably get something better.
 
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