putting a gfci outlet on a switch

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If this is a required receptacle by 210.52 then you must instyall another that is not switch ciontrolled.

210.52 Dwelling Unit Receptacle Outlets. This section
provides requirements for 125-volt, 15- and 20-ampere receptacle
outlets. The receptacles required by this section
shall be in addition to any receptacle that is:
(1) Part of a luminaire or appliance, or
(2) Controlled by a wall switch in accordance with
210.70(A)(1), Exception No. 1, or
(3) Located within cabinets or cupboards, or
(4) Located more than 1.7 m (51⁄2 ft) above the floor
Click to expand...
 
jumper said:
Assuming the switch is a standard snap switch, in general not a problem.
Click to expand...

Just curious if it is not a snap switch or is not "In general" what could be an issue?

When can you not have a GFCI receptacle controlled by any switch?
 
edward said:
Just curious if it is not a snap switch or is not "In general" what could be an issue?

When can you not have a GFCI receptacle controlled by any switch?
Click to expand...

Dennis already posted the rule.

210.52 Dwelling Unit Receptacle Outlets. This section
provides requirements for 125-volt, 15- and 20-ampere receptacle
outlets. The receptacles required by this section
shall be in addition to any receptacle that is:
(1) Part of a luminaire or appliance, or
(2) Controlled by a wall switch in accordance with
210.70(A)(1), Exception No. 1, or
(3) Located within cabinets or cupboards, or
(4) Located more than 1.7 m (51⁄2 ft) above the floor
Click to expand...

So if you had a GFCI that was a required receptacle it couldn't be switched.
Example: kitchen counter GFCI or outside GFCI required for front/back/near HVAC.
 
Well there you go. Along with many things I do not know this was one of them.

Thanks:thumbsup::thumbsup:
 
GoldDigger said:
I thought those were only those used in construction temporary wiring, not any used for building wiring.
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I just know they exist and if you are dealing with one a switch is going to give you a bad time.:)

FWIW we use standard GFCIs for our temps on construction sites.

OTOH when we use the plug in types they do trip when de-energized

5922f896-c7a6-446e-a76d-e4a676ff2346_400.jpg
 
iwire said:
And there is the fact some GFCIs go to the trip position when powered off.
Click to expand...


I doubt you will find them in standard receptacle design. I believe someone from the forum was trying to find a standard receptacle style gfci that would trip when the power went off but he had no luck.
 
jumper said:
Dimmer switch and the section Dennis posted.
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I believe you can have a dimmer switch to control a receptacle as long as the receptacle is a listed one for the purpose. Lutron makes them

NTR15H.jpg




404.13(E) Dimmer Switches. General-use dimmer switches shall
be used only to control permanently installed incandescent
luminaires unless listed for the control of other loads and
installed accordingly.
Click to expand...
 
Dennis Alwon said:
I believe you can have a dimmer switch to control a receptacle as long as the receptacle is a listed one for the purpose. Lutron makes them

NTR15H.jpg
Click to expand...

Yes.

406.15 Dimmer-Controlled Receptacles. A receptacle supplying
lighting loads shall not be connected to a dimmer
unless the plug/receptacle combination is a nonstandard
configuration type that is specifically listed and identified
for each such unique combination.
 
Dennis Alwon said:
I doubt you will find them in standard receptacle design. I believe someone from the forum was trying to find a standard receptacle style gfci that would trip when the power went off but he had no luck.
Click to expand...
Seen one a long time ago that was a part of a listed cordset, I'd guess if found a replacement it would be higher cost then a regular GFCI receptacle.


The idea with cordset GFCI's needing power before they will reset is there is much higher risk of losing just one line - and the GFCI logic circuitry would not function in this condition yet you could still send voltage/current through the other conductor of the circuit and have a potential shock risk. Making it so it trips when voltage is lost means you need to have both lines operational before it will reset and can be used.
 
journeyman0217 said:
is there any issues by putting an outdoor gfci receptacle on a switch controlled from indoors?
Click to expand...
Good answers in this thread. There is one other domino that falls if the indoor switch is in a room or area called out by 2014 NEC 210.12, the circuit supplying the outdoor GFCI must have AFCI protection.
 
Dennis Alwon said:
I doubt you will find them in standard receptacle design. I believe someone from the forum was trying to find a standard receptacle style gfci that would trip when the power went off but he had no luck.
Click to expand...

Seems I have seen or heard of a self testing GFI receptacle. (maybe even required by code) anybody else see or heard of that?
 
qcroanoke said:
Seems I have seen or heard of a self testing GFI receptacle. (maybe even required by code) anybody else see or heard of that?
Click to expand...

Don answers your question here.

And, to be clear, self test is different than trip-on-power-loss being discussed in this thread.
 
qcroanoke said:
Seems I have seen or heard of a self testing GFI receptacle. (maybe even required by code) anybody else see or heard of that?
Click to expand...

That's all you can get in a P&S brand. They are about $7 higher than standard ones. My SH still had some old stock and I bought every one they had. I use them on replacements on service calls. I've got the price of those down. Already messed up once and charged the old price when I put in one of the new ones!:(
 
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