Dishwasher GFCI protection-disconnect means

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We had a CEU class last night and the subject came up regarding dishwashers, disconnect means and GFCI protection. I remember a thread here in the Forum where it was mentioned that a dead-front GFCI was not an acceptable disconnect means if the dishwasher is direct wired. I mentioned this to the instructor but he disagreed with me. Does anyone remember the thread or the Code section ? Thanks in advance. :cool:
 
 
Thanks James. That was an informative thread. I was also looking for a thread (or Code section) that indicates a dead-front GFCI was not an acceptable disconnect means for direct-wired dishwashers.
 
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Try this link. Looks like the option for a dead front GFCI as a disconnect is out there... but rare.
 
Thanks James. That was an informative thread. I was also looking for a thread (or Code section) that indicates a dead-front GFCI was not an acceptable disconnect means for direct-wired dishwashers.
Here's another one

!
 
I believe the key here is does it comply with 404.7?

I think there might be some that do comply, but most don't.

Similar questions have come up about using a standard decora switch for a disconnect, they typically don't comply with 404.7.

It must clearly indicate if it is open or closed (on or off)
 
Something I recall but cannot state with certainty is that a disconnect must be labeled 'on' and 'off'. I believe this indicates that the device has been rated as a switch as well as a GFCI.

If the deadfront GFCI is labeled 'test' and 'reset' then it doesn't qualify.

Jon
 


So these say "ON/OFF" on them, but I don't see anything in their specifications which make it an approved disconnect switch.
 
Just use a breaker lock

422.31(C) Motor-Operated Appliances Rated over 1∕8 Horsepower.
The disconnecting means shall comply with 430.109 and
430.110. For permanently connected motor-operated appliances
with motors rated over 1∕8 hp, the disconnecting means shall
be within sight from the appliance or be capable of being
locked in the open position in compliance with 110.25.
 
I would think the GFCI would need to be able to open the circuit whether it is powered or not. A GFCI breaker is definitely able to do so. GFCI receptacles and "blank face" devices built on same frame as the receptacles typically are not able to do so.
 
Just use a breaker lock
And for most new installations a dual function breaker.

Your "blank face" device maybe 10-20 bucks less, but you then need to mount or cut in a box and probably burn at least as much or more than the difference in labor at setting everything up anyway.

I generally use Sq D, but did run into issue with Eaton BR one time. Their single pole breaker lock works great on standard single pole breakers, but didn't fit on GFCI/AFCI's, and I couldn't find anything in on line catalogs that would have been a different breaker lock to fit those.
 
Something I recall but cannot state with certainty is that a disconnect must be labeled 'on' and 'off'. I believe this indicates that the device has been rated as a switch as well as a GFCI.

If the deadfront GFCI is labeled 'test' and 'reset' then it doesn't qualify.

Jon


Is this it

404.20 Marking.
(A) Ratings. Switches shall be marked with the current, voltage,
and, if horsepower rated, the maximum rating for which
they are designed.
(B) Off Indication. Where in the off position, a switching
device with a marked OFF position shall completely disconnect
all ungrounded conductors to the load it controls
 
I would think the GFCI would need to be able to open the circuit whether it is powered or not. A GFCI breaker is definitely able to do so. GFCI receptacles and "blank face" devices built on same frame as the receptacles typically are not able to do so.
You wouldn't need the whole circuit off, just from the GFCI load side & forward. A powered GFCI can open the circuit past it. An unpowered GFCI is dead already past it.
 
You wouldn't need the whole circuit off, just from the GFCI load side & forward. A powered GFCI can open the circuit past it. An unpowered GFCI is dead already past it.
That was my thought at first reading of this post, but does that make a GFCI deadfront or similarly a GFCI receptacle an approved disconnect means?
 
That was my thought at first reading of this post, but does that make a GFCI deadfront or similarly a GFCI receptacle an approved disconnect means?
I wasn't stating that a GFCI is an acceptable means of disconnect. I was stating that a GFCI can open a circuit from it's load side forward. I would use a dead front GFCI and put on/off stickers on it if that's all that keeps it from being acceptable.
 
I wasn't stating that a GFCI is an acceptable means of disconnect. I was stating that a GFCI can open a circuit from it's load side forward. I would use a dead front GFCI and put on/off stickers on it if that's all that keeps it from being acceptable.
Save the expense of stickers... sharpies are cheap. hahahaha
 
That was my thought at first reading of this post, but does that make a GFCI deadfront or similarly a GFCI receptacle an approved disconnect means?
IMO only if it can be manually operated both on and off. It isn't really a art 404 switch if it needs to be powered to operate in either one or both ways.
 
Something I recall but cannot state with certainty is that a disconnect must be labeled 'on' and 'off'. I believe this indicates that the device has been rated as a switch as well as a GFCI.
Eh? GFCI breakers have ON AND OFF marked on them (required) and are usually not switch rated.
 
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