How would you wire this ?

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goldstar

goldstar

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New Jersey
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Electrical Contractor
I need some opinions please. The mfr's directions are not specific. The HO tells me that this is a 240V, 15A unit. The data sheet states that you could use a 15 or 20A, 240V plug and receptacle. I have no problem because I could set it up either way. What concerns me is that there is a switch on the unit that switches from 120V to 240V. If the HO accidently bumps the switch, instead of making beer he'll be making toast. Also, should it be GFCI protected ?
Thanks in advance.
 

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goldstar said:
I need some opinions please. The mfr's directions are not specific. The HO tells me that this is a 240V, 15A unit. The data sheet states that you could use a 15 or 20A, 240V plug and receptacle. I have no problem because I could set it up either way. What concerns me is that there is a switch on the unit that switches from 120V to 240V. If the HO accidently bumps the switch, instead of making beer he'll be making toast. Also, should it be GFCI protected ?
Thanks in advance.
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I’d wire it for 240. It says it’ll heat faster that way. It looks like there’s a cover that goes over the switch to prevent toggling it. It also said you can use a dryer outlet if you had the proper adapter and gfi protection so I’d put it on a gfi too.


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Needs to be more difficult to switch the input voltage requiring a deliberate act by the user, a toggle switch with a pin that has to be removed to switch the voltage would work, some old Emglo air compressors had that feature.
 
I would wire it for 240V, as it says, it will heat better/faster. there looks to be a cover over the voltage selector switch so probably wouldn't get changed by an inadvertent bump. I would take the time to explain to the customer about the switch and also put a disclaimer on the invoice that you are not responsible if the switch gets moved.
 
rainwater01 said:
I’d wire it for 240. It says it’ll heat faster that way. It looks like there’s a cover that goes over the switch to prevent toggling it. It also said you can use a dryer outlet if you had the proper adapter and gfi protection so I’d put it on a gfi too.


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Click to expand...
Warning number 6 specifically requires a GFCI.

From the wiring directions for 240, it looks like once you go 240 you can't go back unless you re-wire the cord connector. They specifically warn against operating with the switch in the 120 position once it's wired for 240.
 
Dennis Alwon said:
I would- if possible pull out the switch and disconnect the 120v connection.
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I'm thinking it's probably a SPST switch that for 120V operation shorts out one of two heater elements that are connected in series. I agree that disconnecting the switch would be desirable if possible.
 
petersonra said:
Is this thing UL listed?
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I have no idea. Nothing in the instructions states so. Is that something I should be concerned with ? I'm installing a 240V circuit in accordance with Code requirements. Beyond that it's the HO's responsibility IMHO.
 
What I was getting at was should I install a 15 or 20A, 240V circuit? It makes no difference to me. The breaker panel is about 15-20' away. The specs say that it will operate on a 15A 240V circuit BUT you could install a 20A, 240V circuit. Why can't they be specific ?
 
goldstar said:
What I was getting at was should I install a 15 or 20A, 240V circuit? It makes no difference to me. The breaker panel is about 15-20' away. The specs say that it will operate on a 15A 240V circuit BUT you could install a 20A, 240V circuit. Why can't they be specific ?
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Is there any reason not to put it on a 20 Amp 240V circuit? I would use 12 romex just to be safe and then check the price and availabiltiy of 15 and 20 amp GFCT breakers. I'm thinking that the 20 amp breaker may be cheaper.
 
growler said:
Is there any reason not to put it on a 20 Amp 240V circuit? I would use 12 romex just to be safe and then check the price and availabiltiy of 15 and 20 amp GFCT breakers. I'm thinking that the 20 amp breaker may be cheaper.
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Thanks. I'm thinking that's the way to go.
 
If it heats faster when connected to 240, they likely applying line volts to the heater either way, but you get 1/4 watts on 120 than you get on 240. The voltage selection switch probably just changes motor connections to run on different voltage. You won't harm the motor as easily if you had it set for 240 but only applied 120 as you will if set for 120 but applied 240 - it likely will trip on overload but will recover fine if set 240 but 120 applied. If you set at 120 and apply 240, it may still trip overload, but won't do it very many times before you have winding burnout.
 
kwired said:
If it heats faster when connected to 240, they likely applying line volts to the heater either way, but you get 1/4 watts on 120 than you get on 240. The voltage selection switch probably just changes motor connections to run on different voltage. You won't harm the motor as easily if you had it set for 240 but only applied 120 as you will if set for 120 but applied 240 - it likely will trip on overload but will recover fine if set 240 but 120 applied. If you set at 120 and apply 240, it may still trip overload, but won't do it very many times before you have winding burnout.
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Likely once. They very clearly state that once you wire for 240, DON"T change the switch to 120 and attempt to operate it.

1624974557179.png
 
gadfly56 said:
Likely once. They very clearly state that once you wire for 240, DON"T change the switch to 120 and attempt to operate it.

View attachment 2556982
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What you appear to be replying to is the other way around though, motor wired for 240 but supplied with 120 will not burn out very quickly. In fact if lightly loaded will actually run for quite some time in many cases.
 
kwired said:
What you appear to be replying to is the other way around though, motor wired for 240 but supplied with 120 will not burn out very quickly. In fact if lightly loaded will actually run for quite some time in many cases.
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Too many 120's and 240's in one post. You're right, my bad.
 
kwired said:
For an industrial looking piece of equipment why not? go all out and buy a disconnect with a stainless enclosure while you are at it. :cool:
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If the unit was in a garage I would do that. This is a portable unit that he uses in a basement mini-kitchen. He rolls it in, makes his beer and puts it away when he's done. Installing a stainless disconnect is out of the question. Thanks for the thought anyway.
 
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