This. Hang a box on the cable, with where you want it made obvious, and have him embed it in the mortar.
Just used a case of deep ones of that type on an all brick kitchen. As others have said, stub the wire and box out where it goes, and the brick mason will get it in the run. It is also good to communicate with the brick mason the approximate height. Be sure to duct tape the opening if you don’t want it full of mud! LOL!You can use one of these:
Steel Masonry Boxes
Steel masonry boxes from Eaton's Crouse-Hinds Division are designed to accommodate the mounting of switches or other devices in masonry walls.www.eaton.com
Just in case it's not obvious, make sure you bring the cables in through the back of the box.You can use one of these:
Steel Masonry Boxes
Steel masonry boxes from Eaton's Crouse-Hinds Division are designed to accommodate the mounting of switches or other devices in masonry walls.
Also don't forget to install the 8-32 bonding screw before placing. There's a good change the back of the box will be embedded with cement.
It could be a technical issue but I don't see why. A metal box embedded in brick and mortar will be stronger than one mounted behind drywall. If the problem is the 6/32 screws then there should be an allowance (currently there isn't) to use 8/32 or larger screws. Usually for larger fixtures you end up screwing part of the mounting plate into the brick because it's part of the instructions. Here's one I recently installed where the plate was large enough to attach directly to the brick and the metal box.
I agree, but how would that make it code compliant when the fixture weighs more than 6 pounds as Augie mentioned in post #12?
Be thankful if you get anything out of Arlington. I'm told if they have it in stock they'll ship it. If not, they won't take an orders for future shipments. Not sure if that's changed recently though.
I've used these boxes before and they fit great in the brick line. The problem that I have with this type of installation is that the canopy of the fixture will not sit flush on the brick or mortar line and bees will get in and nest behind them. The other thing is that those threaded studs that are sticking out may extend too far beyond the face of the canopy and you'll have to drill out the brick so that they'll recess into the brick. But, nobody said that hanging a light was going to be easy
Shouldnt that be a 10-24 ?Actually, 10-32, but who's counting.
Green grounding screws are 10/32.
I've been buying up Arlington stuff on eBay. I don't know what they actually have on the shelf in their warehouses, but clearly its nothing I actually use.
