voltage drop for high bay lights

[ramsy]

the engineer on the phone told me 24 v DC

Just make sure T-Stat wire can handle 120v Ctrl voltage. If not your T-Stat wire could burn up.

The T-Stat wire spool should have the voltage rating.

 

[Stevenfyeager]

Just make sure T-Stat wire can handle 120v Ctrl voltage. If not your T-Stat wire could burn up.

The T-Stat wire spool should have the voltage rating.

will do, thanks.

 

[curt swartz]

Just make sure T-Stat wire can handle 120v Ctrl voltage. If not your T-Stat wire could burn up.

The T-Stat wire spool should have the voltage rating.

This is a 24V Class 2 control circuit. No reason for cable rated for 120 volts.

 

[curt swartz]

If anyone ever needs a similar relay and prefers the controls wires separate from the power wires look at a Wattstopper (Legrand) BZ-150.

 

[ramsy]

This is a 24V Class 2 control circuit. No reason for cable rated for 120 volts.

See post #20 for RIB nameplate with input voltage = 120 V.

 

[curt swartz]

See post #20 for RIB nameplate with input voltage = 120 V.

That is the relay contact and power supply rating. The control is 24V DC Class 2.

 

[ramsy]

That is the relay contact and power supply rating. The control is 24V DC Class 2.

Contact ratings shown = 480 / 277 / 120

Input rating shown = 120Vac only

 

[curt swartz]

Contact ratings shown = 480 / 277 / 120

Input rating shown = 120Vac only

You are correct about the contact rating. I didn't look at the spec's when posting. The 120V is just the relay power supply rating. If you look up the relay it will state Low Voltage Class 2 control. if its Class 2 it can't be 120 volts. The standard for this type of device is 24VDC and I believe the OP confirmed that contacting support.

Edited to add picture link.

https://www.functionaldevices.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/07/RIB01BDC.jpg

 

[Stevenfyeager]

Thank you. If the 18-4 thermostat wire turns out to be rated up to 120 v, do I not need to worry about installing a divider in my 4 g switch box to separate the 3 way switch that only has the 18-4 wires on it ?

 

[ptonsparky]

Thank you. If the 18-4 thermostat wire turns out to be rated up to 120 v, do I not need to worry about installing a divider in my 4 g switch box to separate the 3 way switch that only has the 18-4 wires on it ?

It's not. Post a picture of the cable marking.
Tail out the control wires to an adjacent J-box and transition to your LV conductor or continue on with whatever you are using.

 

[ramsy]

It's not. Post a picture of the cable marking.

Here's a link to whats sold at our local bigbox #18 T-Stat wire listed at 150V, and as Class-2 Power Limited

 

[ramsy]

..if its Class 2 it can't be 120 volts. The standard for this type of device is 24VDC and I believe the OP confirmed that contacting support.

For 120v RIB control, see bottom right of OEM wiring diagram.

Notes:
Dry Contact Input Operation
Close Whit/Red wire to White/Blue wire to activate relay...

 

[winnie]

The RIB being discussed has a 120V power input (power used by the relay unit itself), a 24V control circuit (the unit internally generates a power limited 24V and uses thus to detect an external dry contact closure), and is capable of controlling 480V.

T stat wire connected to the dry contact terminals will have to carry 24V but might be adjacent to 480V wiring depending upon usage.

Jon

 

[ptonsparky]

Here's a link to whats sold at our local bigbox #18 T-Stat wire listed at 150V, and as Class-2 Power Limited

Wow, I've never seen that but then again I've never purchased any type of wire at a BB.

Now we await a picture of his cable.

 

[ramsy]

I roughed in 400' of 4 wire thermostat wire and temp. tried the lights, using the RIB, it works great !

If your 18-4 T-stat wire is rated for 150v, not sprinkler wire rated for 30v, applying 120v may require protection from fire, damage, overload, & short circuit using chapter 3 wiring method / raceways, except for 300.1(B), with 7 Amp fuse, per 240.4(D)(1).

 

[hbiss]

Wow, I've never seen that but then again I've never purchased any type of wire at a BB.

Now we await a picture of his cable.

All that says is that the insulation is good for 150V, NOT that it can be used at 150V. I believe CAT6 cable is rated at 150V also, that being the minimum insulation rating for a CL2 or CL3 cable. This is exactly why UL doesn't allow manufacturers to put the 150V rating on the jacket marking of CL2 and CL3 cables. People will get the idea that it can actually be used at that voltage.

-Hal

 

[Stevenfyeager]

All that says is that the insulation is good for 150V, NOT that it can be used at 150V. I believe CAT6 cable is rated at 150V also, that being the minimum insulation rating for a CL2 or CL3 cable. This is exactly why UL doesn't allow manufacturers to put the 150V rating on the jacket marking of CL2 and CL3 cables. People will get the idea that it can actually be used at that voltage.

-Hal

neither the spool or wire says voltage. Wire: Vericom E364604-T 18 AWG 4 cond 60 C (UL) Type CL2R CMR (UL) C (UL) Sunlight resist.

 

[ramsy]

Seems to me, if a 120v raceway must switch other lights in same area near RIB, there's no need for T-Stat wiring.

If 120v switch powers relay wired NO.

Normally open (NO): potential free contact Closes when coil is energized.

When switch kills power, relay returns to Normally Open position, per Dry Contact Input Operation White/Red & White/Blue leads

 

[ptonsparky]

Seems to me, if a 120v raceway must switch other lights in same area near RIB, there's no need for T-Stat wiring.

If 120v switch powers relay wired NO.

Normally open (NO): potential free contact Closes when coil is energized.

When switch kills power, relay returns to Normally Open position, per Dry Contact Input Operation White/Red & White/Blue leads

Seems like we're back to a $30 contactor.

 

[curt swartz]

Seems to me, if a 120v raceway must switch other lights in same area near RIB, there's no need for T-Stat wiring.

If 120v switch powers relay wired NO.

Normally open (NO): potential free contact Closes when coil is energized.

When switch kills power, relay returns to Normally Open position, per Dry Contact Input Operation White/Red & White/Blue leads

Ramsy, I take it you have never worked with lighting control systems? Using Class 2 wiring for control is very common. Not sure why you are so against it. Since you are in California you probably visit business everyday that have Class 2 wiring lighting controls. If they are not Class 2 they are wireless. Virtually impossible to have CA T-24 lighting controls without Class 2 or wireless controls.