Hot tub installation manual.

N

nizak

Senior Member
Electrical requirements for an outdoor hot tub state the following:
6/3 copper wire with ground in conduit.

This unit requires a 50 Amp circuit.

Would using #8 THWN Hot/ Hot/ Neutral with # 10 E.G. (single conductor) from the disconnect void any warranty?
 
nizak said:
Ok. Per that specific information it would be U.F. Cable inside a conduit.
Click to expand...
Weird. The last hot tub I hooked up required #6 copper. Hots, neutral and ground.
That's what I installed. I thought it was overkill. However, (there's always a however in life), I wasn't going to be the fall guy.

Ron
 
They have no control of what’s at the disconnect. I don’t care what they say. I’d run number eight and just pigtail it in the spa panel just to add salt to the wound.
 
So I usually do the full deal. 6awg red black white and green. The cost difference is negligible and it already has a 1 in carflex connector on it often. 4 6s are to much for a 3/4 but fit in a 1 in. I do 6-3 to the disconnect and if anyone ever tries to blame the electrical for a warranty issue I'm covered by the instructions being way above and beyond.
 
Eddie702 said:
If the listing and instructions call for #6 it technically is part of the code. If something happens how do you explain it to the judge?

1. I did it to save money because I know more than the MFG.

or

2. I did everything to code and the instruction manual.
Click to expand...
If they say #6 for grounded and ungrounded, then I will run that. But when they say #6 for an EGC, I refuse as the #6 would not add one iota to the safety of the EGC when the NEC says #10 is all that is required.
 
This is also why I use a torque screw driver on the lugs of equipment like this. If they have a failed control board I want that to be covered by warranty of the manufacturer. I use it on mini splits ect... things that you know tight would be fine but it's in the spec and I use this as an upsell since no one else in my town uses them for this size of connections. I don't bother with normal outlets and switches but if by some chance I messed up one of those its ok i have plenty and they're cheap.
 
The thing is they’ll get out of warranty claims no matter what and just cause you torque it doesn’t mean they don’t come back and say well it was loose or over tight. You’d have to be out there when they’re doing their inspection of the units.

Just corporate greed
 
My question is why do they require 6 AWG but give you almost no room to install that size? If anything you at least need to carefully select which order to terminate them without making it more difficult to terminate each one as you go.

I usually install 8 AWG and a10 AWG EGC FWIW. Warranty is generally no good by the time anything fails, If lightning gets it, or is suspect anyway, insurance may be helping out some.
 
AC\DC said:
The thing is they’ll get out of warranty claims no matter what and just cause you torque it doesn’t mean they don’t come back and say well it was loose or over tight. You’d have to be out there when they’re doing their inspection of the units.

Just corporate greed
Click to expand...
If you don't even own the tool they for sure will win this argument but I've never had a failure either.
 
AC\DC said:
The thing is they’ll get out of warranty claims no matter what
Click to expand...
Know a GC that does roofing as well, and on the 50yr shingles the mfg. companies will always refuse to honor the warranty always claim installation error, even if you can show that their specs say x# nails within xx specified spaces and into xx sub-straight and xx underlayment, and that they complied with every one.
Light bulb failed?, not covered under warranty, you must have obviously screwed it in wrong.
 
Fred B said:
Know a GC that does roofing as well, and on the 50yr shingles the mfg. companies will always refuse to honor the warranty always claim installation error, even if you can show that their specs say x# nails within xx specified spaces and into xx sub-straight and xx underlayment, and that they complied with every one.
Light bulb failed?, not covered under warranty, you must have obviously screwed it in wrong.
Click to expand...
Around here there is usually insurance claims from storm damage before manufacturer warranty would apply. Manufacturer warranty doesn't cover such damages in most cases they are just rated to be able to handle so many years of UV exposure and moderate weather conditions.
 
They probably want a #6 EGC because they feel (right or wrong) that the larger size is more robust and resistant to physical damage.

Same with an GEC on a 100 amp service where I sometimes use #4. #8 needs protection, #6 needs protection if subject to damage #4 not so much.


With all the issues you can have with pools and hot tubs (some electricians want nothing to do with them) and the liability why would someone cut corners on a HT or pool?
 
Eddie702 said:
They probably want a #6 EGC because they feel (right or wrong) that the larger size is more robust and resistant to physical damage.

Same with an GEC on a 100 amp service where I sometimes use #4. #8 needs protection, #6 needs protection if subject to damage #4 not so much.


With all the issues you can have with pools and hot tubs (some electricians want nothing to do with them) and the liability why would someone cut corners on a HT or pool?
Click to expand...
There’s no reason for the EGC increase. They’re just morons. I’ve asked them before and could give a straight answer. There’s other Hot Tub manufacturers that do it according to the NEC everything’s kosher it’s just some prima donna dictating that.

Plus like I stated before they’re probably thinking everyone’s using UF as soon as you use a conduit or something like that you’re in a different ballpark
 
nizak said:
Electrical requirements for an outdoor hot tub state the following:
6/3 copper wire with ground in conduit.

This unit requires a 50 Amp circuit.

Would using #8 THWN Hot/ Hot/ Neutral with # 10 E.G. (single conductor) from the disconnect void any warranty?
Click to expand...
MFG. listing as 6/3 they are suggesting NM or UF as the 60o #6 is 55A.

If the Lug terminal of the hot tub is only 60o (which it might be) then even if you were to use THHN or THWN your wire rating is limited to the 60o Column and still #6. So what is the lug/termination connection rating?
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Top