0-10 Vdc power supply

MattS87

Senior Member
Location
Yakima, WA
We have a machine that needs a 0-10 Vdc signal in order to generate a speed reference. The problem is this is a remote cabinet and not easily done from a PLC output. To test the setup I used a small pot switch with a 9V battery to generate a signal which works, however i need something permanent now. I am looking to order one of these https://www.circuitspecialists.com/csi1501.html but would be interested in some suggestions. I have 120Vac as well as 24 Vdc and 12Vdc available in the cabinet
 
How far is the machine from the PLC? What was your line loss on your signal?

We have a machine that needs a 0-10 Vdc signal in order to generate a speed reference. The problem is this is a remote cabinet and not easily done from a PLC output. To test the setup I used a small pot switch with a 9V battery to generate a signal which works, however i need something permanent now. I am looking to order one of these https://www.circuitspecialists.com/csi1501.html but would be interested in some suggestions. I have 120Vac as well as 24 Vdc and 12Vdc available in the cabinet
 

hbiss

EC, Westchester, New York NEC: 2014
Location
Hawthorne, New York NEC: 2014
Occupation
EC
That would work fine and you can't beat the price but it is really a bench supply and might be overkill for what you are doing. Does the voltage need to be continuously adjusted or can it be set and left alone and/or infrequently need to be adjusted? Any reason why you couldn't just use the 12VDC you have available and use a pot like you did with the battery?

-Hal
 

myspark

Senior Member
Location
SCV Ca, USA
Occupation
Retired EE
We have a machine that needs a 0-10 Vdc signal in order to generate a speed reference. The problem is this is a remote cabinet and not easily done from a PLC output. To test the setup I used a small pot switch with a 9V battery to generate a signal which works, however i need something permanent now. I am looking to order one of these https://www.circuitspecialists.com/csi1501.html but would be interested in some suggestions. I have 120Vac as well as 24 Vdc and 12Vdc available in the cabinet
That item you showed should work.but it looks like it is designed for testing purposes. As such, may not be designed to be hooked up "permanently" to production machine working 24/7,

There is an alternative which is a lot cheaper. I gather, you are not adjusting the output constantly correct? You set the pot and leave it that way.

If this is the way that I think, you can use a buck/boost converter since you mentioned you have a 12 vdc available in the cabinet. There is an item I've been using on my electronic projects available on flea bay.

It is stable, I've never seen it drift in my preamp for my home theater. I also use them in my RV.

It is rated 3 amps which is more than you need. It also has current adjustment along with the volts trim pot.

Check it out. Ebay item 283060129385. There are other models if this one is not to your liking.

It's so cheap you can get a whole bunch before the tariff kicks in.:huh:
Good luck.
 

MattS87

Senior Member
Location
Yakima, WA
That would work fine and you can't beat the price but it is really a bench supply and might be overkill for what you are doing. Does the voltage need to be continuously adjusted or can it be set and left alone and/or infrequently need to be adjusted? Any reason why you couldn't just use the 12VDC you have available and use a pot like you did with the battery?

-Hal
It will never be adjusted unless the machine is upgraded (not likely). I was just hoping for something a little more 'factory' as in not homemade but seeing as how it will be in a locked cabinet a simple pot could work.

I know they come in different ratings, any insight on how to chose the right style?
 

MattS87

Senior Member
Location
Yakima, WA
That item you showed should work.but it looks like it is designed for testing purposes. As such, may not be designed to be hooked up "permanently" to production machine working 24/7,

There is an alternative which is a lot cheaper. I gather, you are not adjusting the output constantly correct? You set the pot and leave it that way.

If this is the way that I think, you can use a buck/boost converter since you mentioned you have a 12 vdc available in the cabinet. There is an item I've been using on my electronic projects available on flea bay.

It is stable, I've never seen it drift in my preamp for my home theater. I also use them in my RV.

It is rated 3 amps which is more than you need. It also has current adjustment along with the volts trim pot.

Check it out. Ebay item 283060129385. There are other models if this one is not to your liking.

It's so cheap you can get a whole bunch before the tariff kicks in.:huh:
Good luck.
The description states 5V-30V output which won't work for me. Currently the temp pot is set @ 2V which is equivalent to 200 fpm and 350 fpm is the max the machine can go currently
 

hbiss

EC, Westchester, New York NEC: 2014
Location
Hawthorne, New York NEC: 2014
Occupation
EC
It will never be adjusted unless the machine is upgraded (not likely). I was just hoping for something a little more 'factory' as in not homemade but seeing as how it will be in a locked cabinet a simple pot could work.

I know they come in different ratings, any insight on how to chose the right style?
Do you know if there is any current draw for the 0-10V is or is it just a reference voltage?

A screwdriver adjustable pot mounted through a 3/8" hole in something would certainly be professional.

-Hal
 

MattS87

Senior Member
Location
Yakima, WA
Do you know if there is any current draw for the 0-10V is or is it just a reference voltage?

A screwdriver adjustable pot mounted through a 3/8" hole in something would certainly be professional.

-Hal
I couldn't say the exact draw, but it goes to an analog input card so i wouldn't think much
 

hbiss

EC, Westchester, New York NEC: 2014
Location
Hawthorne, New York NEC: 2014
Occupation
EC
https://www.alliedelec.com/nte-electronics-inc-501-0005/70117607/

Allied tends to be expensive, I'm sure you can do better but if you only need one...

I'm thinking a 1K, that should keep the dissipation at 12V through the pot at 0.12w, well below the 2W rating. If it's truly just a signal voltage you could go higher to 10K it really isn't critical. You will want to connect your 12V to the two outside terminals, ground or zero to the right hand one when looking at the pot from the front shaft end. That will give you the customary turn to the left or CCW to turn the voltage down. You take your 0-10 "output" from the center terminal and the right ground or zero.

Classic adjustable voltage divider.

-Hal
 
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MattS87

Senior Member
Location
Yakima, WA
https://www.alliedelec.com/nte-electronics-inc-501-0005/70117607/

Allied tends to be expensive, I'm sure you can do better but if you only need one...

I'm thinking a 1K, that should keep the dissipation at 12V through the pot at 0.12w, well below the 2W rating. If it's truly just a signal voltage you could go higher to 10K it really isn't critical. You will want to connect your 12V to the two outside terminals, ground or zero to the right hand one when looking at the pot from the front shaft end. That will give you the customary turn to the left or CCW to turn the voltage down. You take your 0-10 "output" from the center terminal and the right ground or zero.

Classic adjustable voltage divider.

-Hal
Thanks for that. I was looking around here to see if we had any old equipment to scrap one off of but no luck. The resistance part is what confuses me on these (whether to pick 1K, 5k, 10K)
 

gar

Senior Member
180817-0302 EDT

MattS87:

You really need to know whether the input at at the PLC is isolated from ground, common, or some PLC power supply reference. If not, then your remote power supply must be isolated from anything else or there will be some sort of ground loop problem.

To limit the output adjustment range I would add a series resistor from +12 V to the pot + terminal. I suggest an AB linear 1 k 2 W pot. Identical units are available from Ohmite (Allied Electronics, or Newark).

An added 1 k 1/2 W series resistor will limit you to 6 V from a 12 V source.

Note: power is V^2/R.

.
 
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Besoeker

Senior Member
Location
UK
We have a machine that needs a 0-10 Vdc signal in order to generate a speed reference. The problem is this is a remote cabinet and not easily done from a PLC output. To test the setup I used a small pot switch with a 9V battery to generate a signal which works, however i need something permanent now. I am looking to order one of these https://www.circuitspecialists.com/csi1501.html but would be interested in some suggestions. I have 120Vac as well as 24 Vdc and 12Vdc available in the cabinet
What are you controlling the speed of?
 

just the cowboy

Inactive, Email Never Verified
Location
newburgh,ny
Does the device not have a built in power supply

Does the device not have a built in power supply

Are you using a VFD or DC drive to control the speed ? Most have a built in power supply for speed reference.

Cowboy
 

gar

Senior Member
180817-2030 EDT

hbiss:

In post #6 MattS87 said
The description states 5V-30V output which won't work for me. Currently the temp pot is set @ 2V which is equivalent to 200 fpm and 350 fpm is the max the machine can go currently
It appears MattS87 requires nothing like 10 V and never expects to. Thus, limit the pot range which makes the setting of the pot less critical. It might even be better to limit the pot range to 4 V instead of 6 V.

Fixed resistors could be used if there was never a reason to change speed. But, I really think some adjustment is a good idea.

.
 

MattS87

Senior Member
Location
Yakima, WA
I went ahead and ordered the unit I had posted a link too simply because we are under the gun to get this fixed and i couldn't find necessary parts on hand to make something. Basically the machine runs as such: a corrugating machine with 2 OEM manufacturers sending various signals between each to control their respective sections. OEM A is supposed to send a 0-10Vdc signal to OEM B which modifies the speed of the machine to 0-1000 fpm during a splice condition (our machine can't go faster than 350 fpm). However, the signal can be continuous as OEM B only looks at the signal when a splice occurs. Although a 0-5Vdc range is completely adequate I wanted to make sure I can supply 0-10V as that is original design.

Gar: I will find the prints and see about the type of input to determine if it is isolated or not.

As i stated we don't have parts on hand for this so order parts to make something or order a unit ready to go was my options here.
 
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